IFS failures (for Mr. Schotts)

[Eatdust]

Hi Folks,

Another issue with the 100's failing in oz aside from the much heavier Intercooled turbo Diesel engine, about 40+ kilograms of winch and very heavy bullbar is the fact that the diesel comes standard with twin batteries fitted. Some people have also added a third battery purely for deep cycle needs (fridges etc). Plus the obligatory driving lights of course.
Add this all together and it certainly adds up to being a significant increase over the front end.
I have chosen the petrol option without bullbar ('roos and straying stock have not bent the front end yet) and and have had no troubles at this time running 285 bfg muddies on the std front end. Touch wood.

Happy New Year

Ed

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

Have done A arm mods [my old screen name here was shed guy] to about 60+ 100 ifs cruisers now, most were cracked, all cracked ones were HDJ models, but we have done afew V8 ones for owner piece of mind also.

The ARB bolt on bracket, according to ARB is designed to stop the car dropping to the bump stop when it does crack, it is NOt designed to stop it cracking.

My info says we are about to have a recall here in Aus for inspection only, at the moment by Toyota, because the weld was 2mm short on the rhs, so they say

The arm cracks from hitting the bump stop hard, not from T bar tension on the holes, the T bar hole becomes involved in the crack location, because its the path of least resistance for the crack to head to.

 

[spressomon]

Having only changed a subaru IFS front axle, the birfield is much, much easier to fix.

This thread and the thread about the broken front diffs is making me wonder about the wisdom of the 100 series front end design, and if it will hold up like a live axle Land Cruiser in rough service. There are tons of FJ40's still Cruisin and wheeling with 30+ year old front axles. Any chance the 100s will compile that sort of a record?

I have to hand it to you guys for wheeling these super nice trucks.

The pinion issue is solved with an ARB locker...relatively cheap insurance. The leaking boot issue is symptomatic of raising the front end and changing the angle for the CV shaft/boot. Again this is a relatively quick, easy and cheap fix if taken care of sooner rather than later.

Don't know the time and skill involved for fixing/swapping a birf but the whole CV shaft can be replaced, generally within 2-hours per side...maybe a little more if you haven't done one before.

As you know the real disadvantage of IFS (at least on an LC with no aftermarket options at this time) is you are limited to 2" of lift...

Stock to stock comparison: I think the 100 CV system is a durable system enough to go well past 100K without any maintenance at all...maybe even twice that. How about a birf?

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

The pinion issue is solved with an ARB locker...relatively cheap insurance.

The carrier problem is solved with an ARB locker, providing some simple steps are followed while it is installed, but it doesnt solve the "pinion" issue.

This is solved with a solid pinion spacer, at the right pre load.

Those mods done correctly [never assume the ARB carrier doesnt have run out and just bolt the crownwheel on] makes the front diff lots stronger.

The IFS and live axle use the same cw & p [or maybe I should say the live axle variant will go in the ifs front diff.]

 

[spressomon]

The carrier problem is solved with an ARB locker, providing some simple steps are followed while it is installed, but it doesnt solve the "pinion" issue.

This is solved with a solid pinion spacer, at the right pre load.

Those mods done correctly [never assume the ARB carrier doesnt have run out and just bolt the crownwheel on] makes the front diff lots stronger.

The IFS and live axle use the same cw & p [or maybe I should say the live axle variant will go in the ifs front diff.]

Just when we thought we had it all figured out Good advice...now I just have to find someone that can install an ARB on the front diff of my 100 within a 2-hour driving radius


And thanks!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

.now I just have to find someone that can install an ARB on the front diff of my 100 within a 2-hour driving radius


And thanks!

As we discussed before-call Sean "the gear man" at River City Diffs in Sacramento. It's almost exactly 2 hours from Reno, and there is a whole city of Cruiserheads to make you feel welcome. He really is "the gear man" and has done 5 diffs worth of gears and ARBs for me. Excellent service and fair prices, and in my experience goes out of his way to help you out.

 

[spressomon]

As we discussed before-call Sean "the gear man" at River City Diffs in Sacramento. It's almost exactly 2 hours from Reno, and there is a whole city of Cruiserheads to make you feel welcome. He really is "the gear man" and has done 5 diffs worth of gears and ARBs for me. Excellent service and fair prices, and in my experience goes out of his way to help you out.

I do have River City Diffs written down from your previous note to me: Thank you for the reminder . After ats4x4.com's comments: "This is solved with a solid pinion spacer, at the right pre load. Those mods done correctly [never assume the ARB carrier doesnt have run out and just bolt the crownwheel on] makes the front diff lots stronger"...I got a little more concerned about this. I will call Sean and try to relay the information that ats has offered up...greek to me but maybe derigor for a good diff guy.

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

I will call Sean and try to relay the information that ats has offered up...greek to me but maybe derigor for a good diff guy.

he can email me, or you can, darren@ats4x4.com and I can give him all the details on what to look out for, to get the set up as good as it can be.

We have seen ARB carriers with up to 54 thou runout, so we check every one, and work to - 8 thou max to ensure the crown wheel and pinion can get the best set up for 360 deg [no, not just one or 3 spots, all the way around please!] and we do some trick solid spacers now, to save machining time for the pinion spacer, with one section over the outside of another, and we machine the spacer in between the 2 held captive by the 2 sections one over the other where it sits. Normally takes about 3 machines to get the pre load spot on per diff.

On the 80's and 105's we also drill out the housing to take 10mm studs to hold the carrier in, like the rear and use rear studs and nuts,. as the extra clamp pressure stops them leaking oil from the 3-6 o clock position when flexed alot.

 

[spressomon]

he can email me, or you can, darren@ats4x4.com and I can give him all the details on what to look out for, to get the set up as good as it can be.

We have seen ARB carriers with up to 54 thou runout, so we check every one, and work to - 8 thou max to ensure the crown wheel and pinion can get the best set up for 360 deg [no, not just one or 3 spots, all the way around please!] and we do some trick solid spacers now, to save machining time for the pinion spacer, with one section over the outside of another, and we machine the spacer in between the 2 held captive by the 2 sections one over the other where it sits. Normally takes about 3 machines to get the pre load spot on per diff.

On the 80's and 105's we also drill out the housing to take 10mm studs to hold the carrier in, like the rear and use rear studs and nuts,. as the extra clamp pressure stops them leaking oil from the 3-6 o clock position when flexed alot.

Done. I really appreciate your willingness to share! Dan