IFS failures (for Mr. Schotts)

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Here is a picture of the ARB "fix" kit -

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Originally posted by hoser here - added to this thread for the FAQ
 
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Yes, but there's controversy over that mod.

Do you just bolt on? Is that enough?
Or, should you weld them to the arms?
If you weld, now and with what material?
Thougn wait, does welding weaken the arm?

Many quaestions still are out there on this.
 
Bolting it on is the way to go IMO, because it would spread the force to the under side of the arm. It probably will help, but how much is not proven yet. I think I would try it if it’s not too much $. I think welding it on would cause problems also.
I’ll call ARB and see how much it is.
Dean
 
I called ARB today and they said that the price was going to be ~$14-16 range. They said that it was too new to see on the computer as they have not had any call on them yet. He said to call a local ARB dealer and have them order one and when the come in than it will be spoken for.
For $16 I think I would try it. I would hate to have one break. Wouldn’t it cause you to be stranded? :eek: Though I probably will never wheel as hard/much as Mr. Shotts this may be one of those things…Just cheep insurance and/or piece of mind.
Dean
 
I think that there are two separate things people are commenting on this thread.

One is "rock crawling" like John is talking about then Doron is talking about Expedition style trips.

I can see what John means about "I can't remember the last time I bottomed (wheel going up) out my front suspension???"

I on the other hand do it a lot. Coming down a fast fire road and slamming on the brakes to not hit a rut or water bar. From the sound of Doron trips to Mexico with whole family I can see this happening to him.

I have looked under there lots of times and over the weekend I did replaced my torsion bars since the stock ones were pretty tired. I am also looking into using the OME LTR's because when we were in Death Valley the shock on my truck was so hot I couldn't touch it (on fire roads) Drexx has these shocks and he likes them a lot. The roads that he drives in the Philippines are just like fire roads here with an occasional crater every 5 feet. :-)

I guess personally I would just keep looking around the a-arm area and carry a spare CV. Changing that out looks more difficult than a birfield!
 
While looking at DMX84's A-arm this weekend during a suspension upgrade I was suprised to see that the bumpstop was hitting the A-arm so often that the impact area on the A-arm was pounded clean. From our discussions I don't think he is doing anything too extreme but the truck is clearly using the bumpstop a lot.
 
i4c4lo said:
I guess personally I would just keep looking around the a-arm area and carry a spare CV. Changing that out looks more difficult than a birfield!

Would a spare CV help when the A-arm is broke? :confused:


NMuzj100 said:
While looking at DMX84's A-arm this weekend during a suspension upgrade I was suprised to see that the bumpstop was hitting the A-arm so often that the impact area on the A-arm was pounded clean. From our discussions I don't think he is doing anything too extreme but the truck is clearly using the bumpstop a lot.

That is because of the heavy ARB bumper and stock suspension. ;)
Dean
 
DMX84 said:
I called ARB today and they said that the price was going to be ~$14-16 range. They said that it was too new to see on the computer as they have not had any call on them yet. He said to call a local ARB dealer and have them order one and when the come in than it will be spoken for.
For $16 I think I would try it. I would hate to have one break. Wouldn’t it cause you to be stranded? :eek: Though I probably will never wheel as hard/much as Mr. Shotts this may be one of those things…Just cheep insurance and/or piece of mind.
Dean
I bought a set for $23 IIRC in OZ, haven't fitted them yet, I think Pedders suspension makes a different type which possibly bolts right through the arm to the otherside with a heavy plate, but I'm not exactly sure how it goes, I will try to find out some more but it may take some time.
 
"Would a spare CV help when the A-arm is broke? "

No it won't but the things that are breaking (well at least Christo broke one) are the CV's and the A-arm. Like some of the US guys are saying it doesn't really particularly affect us but some guys are using their trucks harder than others so, basically having "some" parts IF something breaks will be a good thing. For the most part, you break a CV or an a-arm, the Toyota dealer will not have it in stock.
 
Jim_Chow said:
Yep, and the HDJ gets much better fuel economy. In a UZJ, you'd have to carry like 100 gal of fuel vs. 25gal in the main tank and 40 gal in the rear tank for the HDJ. I think that's the bottom line reason. With all that extra gasoline you'd have to carry, you need jerry cans, and lots of them, which is even more weight (or tow a trailer full of gasoline?). I think I'd opt for a HDJ-78 "troopie" and have custom tanks underneath the two rows of rear bench seats that face each other (one for water, one for diesel).

If you have to drive a UZJ 1000 miles in between gas stations, what would you do? This is the achilles heel to an otherwise excellent vehicle. Oh, in the Paris-Dakar HDJ100, then had a large custom fuel tank in the interior (no back seats, of course) w/ a fill cap located high up on the left side of the vehicle.

I think the fuel tanks for the diesel and the petrol are the same so the weight would be the same. In the australian conditions the more fuel you can carry the better as sometimes fuel stops are over 1000km apart. The bottom line is that the IFS 100 V8, diesel and turbo diesel are made for sealed or reasonable quality roads. Most people use them to take the kids to school or do the weekly shopping. Toyota make the solid front axle with coils and standard diesel for the outback.
Regards Tonym.
 
i4c4lo said:
NMuzj100,

I have the same issue with my bumpstops on the lower a-arms. The setup was stock torsion bars with OME shocks- Rear is OME 863's with OME shocks.

You're right on. With my SAW T-bars about the only time I can bottom them out is on pavement, in a huge dip, and I take off so fast I'm airborn at the top and then bottom-out at the dip's bottom. They are stiff and don't flex as easily which is a trade off in the crawling mode. Should yake off my front sway bar but this is our main machine so I won't.
 
I've seen 'em on the JDM market, but the Lexus GX470 reportedly has electronic disconnects, so one flip of the switch and articulation increases.
 
Jim_Chow said:
I've seen 'em on the JDM market, but the Lexus GX470 reportedly has electronic disconnects, so one flip of the switch and articulation increases.

Yes, rear only. Not front. Wait, I'm doubting myself. Ya, rear only???
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Yes, rear only. Not front. Wait, I'm doubting myself. Ya, rear only???


Front AND rear, sort of like a new Range Rover. Can actively manipulate your suspension for, say, opposite corners being articulated (e.g. front right wheel on a rock, rear left wheel pushed down). I know of one 4x4 rag that compared ramp scores between a KDSS truck and a non-KDSS truck and there was serious improvement in the scores with KDSS (that's Kinetic Dynamic Suspension System, BTW). Could use something like that on the Cruiser, though it's just one more system to break down...

I'd just prefer two solid axles myself... :flipoff2:
 
Some dude in AUS made them for the rear though he wanted $150. Haven't heard about front. The trouble is that the bars are in the way on the 80 and 100. Doron took his bars off on his 100 and said it flexed easier. I have the bars off my 80 and LOVE IT! When I broke the rear sway in the 100 I really enjoyed the time with it off before I replaced it.
 
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