Ideas for wheels? (1 Viewer)

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I am looking for ideas for wheels for my nightshade blue '95. I would like to keep the 16" size, and they will be wrapped in 35" tires, most likely BFG A/T. 2.5" Dobinsons lift to be installed first. I like the FJ cruiser trd wheels, but also like the look of the fifteen52 wheels, as many look like something that could come on a classic car. Also considering black or dark grey colors.
86FB4335-D564-4E21-AF22-D5A7FA5E68F0 2.JPG
Anyone running something similar or wish to throw out some other ideas would be great.
2014-Toyota-FJ-Cruiser-Trail-Teams-Ultimate-Edition-bead-lock-wheel.jpg
turbomac-hd-classic-wheel-wheels-fifteen52-wheels-asphalt-black-satin-16x8-5x1143-45-550937_480x.jpg
 

Road Apple

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The Icon Thrust is similar.


F845775C-7ABC-42C5-9145-9B6F12964674.png
 
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I'm still pretty impressed with the stock wheels on these. Well made, period correct, fits the tire sizes you are looking for, cleans up nicely, no spacer or fitment issues, etc..

If for some reason I wanted a different look I'd go with the steel FJ looking wheels in grey. Good luck on your search!
 

studawg

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I am looking for ideas for wheels for my nightshade blue '95. I would like to keep the 16" size, and they will be wrapped in 35" tires, most likely BFG A/T. 2.5" Dobinsons lift to be installed first. I like the FJ cruiser trd wheels, but also like the look of the fifteen52 wheels, as many look like something that could come on a classic car. Also considering black or dark grey colors.View attachment 2571217 Anyone running something similar or wish to throw out some other ideas would be great.View attachment 2571218View attachment 2571220
Your stock wheels look amazing, I think it would be stupid to refinish those in anything. If you want refinished stock wheels, find a set in bad condition and redo those, then sell your mint ones. The stock wheels are a high quality aluminum, maybe even forged(?), and are way better than any of the aftermarket Chinese junk. The only thing I would replace them with is the 6 lug TRDs in your first pic, or 17" FJ Cruiser steelies or 16" Tacoma steelies.

Just my opinion.
 

on the rocks

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If going aftermarket I would do at least 17" personally, most common size and best selection for the 80. If sticking 16" the factory look best and will get harder to find over time. Best looking 16" by far. Watch back spacing, most wheels out there are for a Tacoma or 4 runner and you will have to run spacers.
 
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I've gone down the rabbit hole on wheels myself, and I've now convinced myself that of the 16" options, the original wheels are the best. I totally agree with what others have said about their looks, strength and just how they go with the vehicle. If I were going to a 17" inch rim, I guess I'd have to go with a 4Runner Off-Road rim, or an FJ Cruiser rim, but I am dead set against going with spacers. I think it's a safety issue - and I realize others feel strongly that spacers are safe. To each his own, I get it.
The gray original rims @voodu3 is rocking, with the black center caps, look fantastic. Well done. I'm kind of over black rims - everyone has them, meh...
 
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1612276281090.png


@sxp this looks like your rig. Was on the Stealth page gallery
 
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sxp

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View attachment 2573019

@sxp this looks like your rig. Was on the Stealth page gallery
It's similar in that it has Monstalinered sides, but everything else is different. That is a nice looking rig though.

Mine should be looking a bit more unique once the weather warms up.
 
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Your stock wheels look amazing, I think it would be stupid to refinish those in anything. If you want refinished stock wheels, find a set in bad condition and redo those, then sell your mint ones. The stock wheels are a high quality aluminum, maybe even forged(?), and are way better than any of the aftermarket Chinese junk. The only thing I would replace them with is the 6 lug TRDs in your first pic, or 17" FJ Cruiser steelies or 16" Tacoma steelies.

Just my opinion.

The facts.

Stock wheels aren't forged.

Most, if not all, aftermarket truck wheels you see in this very forum are made in China so let's not throw stones in a glass house.

My opinion.

Stock wheels are cool (my mint set sit in storage), but the typically conservative OEM offsets and widths leave a lot of food on table for aftermarket companies to offer more appealing specs/designs.

If you buy from a reputable wheel brand, whether made in China/Thailand/Taiwan/Japan/USA/XYZ, you're going to be well served for many tens of thousands of miles of motoring.

I love my Black Rhino wheels by TSW. 37lbs each, but true and load rated up the wazoo. China made. Just like the carbon fiber bits in a Porsche Carrera GT. :D

6BBC0DBC-1C51-4D4D-941D-B5DF98213D11.jpeg


Gl in your search!
 
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bencallaway

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The facts.

Stock wheels aren't forged.

Most, if not all, aftermarket truck wheels you see in this very forum are made in China so let's not throw stones in a glass house.

My opinion.

Stock wheels are cool (my mint set sit in storage), but the typically conservative OEM offsets and widths leave a lot of food on table for aftermarket companies to offer more appealing specs/designs.

If you buy from a reputable wheel brand, whether made in China/Thailand/Taiwan/Japan/USA/XYZ, you're going to be well served for many tens of thousands of miles of motoring.

I love my Black Rhino wheels by TSW. 37lbs each, but true and load rated up the wazoo. China made. Just like the carbon fiber bits in a Porsche Carrera GT. :D

View attachment 2573123

Gl in your search!
CYKBC- I love your build and have searched for more details on your wheels and tires and info on your tint job. Unfortunately your profile is private so I cant see your previous posts..
 

spazzyfry123

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I think your first consideration should be use. For larger diameter tires generally comes larger width. Most 16" wheels aren't going to have the recommended width (and possibly not ideal backspacing either). If you're after something bigger, it may be best to consider a 17" wheel to obtain ideal dimensions and positioning.

That said, I am a fan of the OEM wheels. The OEM size provides an ideal track width and right on the cusp of recommended rim width for the tires I run. I, too, was interested in the Fifteen52's steelies. But I didn't like the dimensions for the 16" and would really feel comfortable with upping to a 17".
 
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CYKBC- I love your build and have searched for more details on your wheels and tires and info on your tint job. Unfortunately your profile is private so I cant see your previous posts..

Appreciate the love, but it's not much of a build compared to many here!

You can find the Black Rhino specs here:


Screenshot 2021-02-02 at 8.37.47 AM.png


In the pic above, I'm running Nitto Ridge Grappler 35x12.5s, but currently on 37s which drive much better due to gearing.

The reason why I chose the Black Rhino Arsenals aside from looks is the fact that they're the widest 17s I could find that are also hub-centric (with supplied rings) and for that relatively heavier wheel weight you get back a relatively higher load rating. TSW is also a reputable brand. I always have the wheel shop check for lateral and longitudinal run-out and they're spot on. Many don't care or know to ask for this, but I do. I care deeply about every little detail.

Tint is just your basic 35% Suntek film. If I were to do it again, I'd get a proper heat rejecting ceramic tint at 30%.

I hope this helps some.
 

bencallaway

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Appreciate the love, but it's not much of a build compared to many here!

You can find the Black Rhino specs here:


View attachment 2573129

In the pic above, I'm running Nitto Ridge Grappler 35x12.5s, but currently on 37s which drive much better due to gearing.

The reason why I chose the Black Rhino Arsenals aside from looks is the fact that they're the widest 17s I could find that are also hub-centric (with supplied rings) and for that relatively heavier wheel weight you get back a relatively higher load rating. TSW is also a reputable brand. I always have the wheel shop check for lateral and longitudinal run-out and they're spot on. Many don't care or know to ask for this, but I do. I care deeply about every little detail.

Tint is just your basic 35% Suntek film. If I were to do it again, I'd get a proper heat rejecting ceramic tint at 30%.

I hope this helps some.
Great info, thanks. No rubbing issues with that backspacing and 37's? Also did you remove the old mirrored tint or never have it?
 
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Great info, thanks. No rubbing issues with that backspacing and 37's? Also did you remove the old mirrored tint or never have it?

Ah, yes. Scope creep.

Aside from getting properly caster'ed out, I'm running Delta arms to make sure I have enough spacing in the rear side of the front wheel well. I'm also conservatively lifted on OME 2.5s and don't ever rock crawl so I can't factually tell you other than I did trim off a little bit of the front plastic bumper corners to clear the 37s on turns. If I didn't have the Delta arms, I'd most definitely hit the back side body which is a huge no no. Caster plates are cool, but they shorten the wheelbase enough to cause rubbing as we're talking millimeters between Y and N.

I only did one tint job.

The SCS F5 wheels, esp in 17x9s with the huge negative offset are solid wheels and really light, but they're ubiquitous and the load rating is at 2100-2200lbs compared to my 2450lbs.

If I were to swap wheels out again, I'd get these Summit Dakar wheels in black.

 

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