I need a boat-advice wanted (1 Viewer)

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cruiserdan said:
I measured the motor compartment and I could fit a 350 under the cowling and I may do that some day...... :idea:

D-

I certainly never thought I would see C-Dan considering a chevy V8 swap.

Jared
 
sjpitts said:
It really depends on how you want to use your boat. My boat is a little (16.5 foot) open bow with the little 4 cylinder merc and it pulls me ok. Or I guess I should say it usually pulls me ok. Right now it is giving me serious grief. See by boat problem thread:

http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=72397

I shouldn't complain to much, the boat has been relatively trouble free for the last ten years. One thing I would say is don't just focus on a boat's length, look at the coast guard rating for the amount of people it can legally hold. Mine only holds 6. That is really not enough. If you have a lot of friends or kids, you really want to hold more people. I would say get one that holds at least 10.

The other thing to consider is the whole outboard versus I/O versus v-drive versus inboard debate. It really comes down to how you are going to use your boat. I like my I/O, but I have been thinking that my next boat will be an inboard. Malibu, Correct Craft, Mastercraft. They are supposed to be better performance watersport boats. One the other hand, I/Os are considerably cheaper for some reason.

Jared


I didn't read the whole thread, but try a small 6 gal tank and see if the issue continues, metal shavings are bad, tank could be rusting out causing blockage.
 
sjpitts said:
I certainly never thought I would see C-Dan considering a chevy V8 swap.

Jared


Well, it's a 6 cylinder Chebby in there now...:D

To add to Steve's post, another important consideration is how the boat has been stored when it is not being used. A boat with 40 hours on it that has been stored outdoors with a s***ty cover will be in worse condition than a boat with 400 hours on it that has been stored indoors.
My boat has 327 engine hours on it and is in its 13th season. It has been stored indoors when it has not been in service and the fiberglass and interior still smell and look new. I have seen uncounted boats 2-3 years old that look like s*** compared to mine.
 
Powell actually. Shuttle runs between the courtisy dock and the houseboat on the bouy. It started getting dark (at 4 in the afternoon) on the way from the houseboat to the courtisy dock. I got to the dock and tied off just as a huge thunder bumper came accross Bullfrog bay from the Southeast. The "track" was right over the docks. My boat was pitching 5-6 feet up and down against the dock and there was nothing I could do. I could not get untied to get away. My drive actually got wound up in THE CABLE that held the dock to the shoreline :mad: That was the nastiest s*** I have ever been in on fresh water and it lasted about 20 minutes and was gone like it never happened.........My boat was lifted almost high enough to land it on top of the dock..:eek: on one of the "drops" the rub rail caught on the dock and it sheared 16 rivits clean off. I was able to drill them out and install new ones when we got home and the old gal was good as new. I have been on that lake for over 20 years and that was the first ugly storm I was caught in. It certainly changed the way I look at grey clouds when I am there.....

D-
 
cruiserdan said:
To add to Steve's post, another important consideration is how the boat has been stored when it is not being used. A boat with 40 hours on it that has been stored outdoors with a s***ty cover will be in worse condition than a boat with 400 hours on it that has been stored indoors.
My boat has 327 engine hours on it and is in its 13th season. It has been stored indoors when it has not been in service and the fiberglass and interior still smell and look new. I have seen uncounted boats 2-3 years old that look like s*** compared to mine.

That's good to know Dan and confirms my theory. I've wanted to get a boat in the last couple of years but until I figure out where I'm going to store it indoors, it will remain a dream. Even my cars/trucks get stored indoors.
 
ken_79-fj40 said:
I drove a 18-19 foot larson bowrider with a 3.0 and it was pathetic. No way could I wakeboard behind that thing.

I took a pull behind my friend's $60K Mastercraft X-Star and it done ruined everything for me. No more wakeboarding behind my boat, only skiing.

The cautionary tale here is to watch out for how specialized a boat you get, because going back to more general purpose boat is like wheeling in a Escalade.

-Erik
 
Brentbba said:
All I've ever heard from boat owners was that the two happiest days of their boat ownership lives was the day they bought the boat and the day they sold the damn thing! Other than that, I'm useless to your real question. Never owned a boat in my life.

Amen to that!

I lived on a boat for 2 years. (not in the navy, I had a boat in a marina that I lived on.)

it was a 36 foot 1982 Egg Harbor Yacht with twin Detroit 671s. I bought it for $25,000 non running, got it running (Cost about $60,000 for that after all was said and done, mostly with my own labor) and sold it 2 years later for $150,000.

I can tell you this: Living on a boat is fun. You meet lots of friends, and chicks way dig it. (This is when I was single) To rent a liveaboard slip is only $400 a month or so, and my boat was bigger and had more amenities than many apartments that land-lubbers were paying $1500+to rent.

But OPERATING a boat is different. For every 1 hour I spent out in the harbor enjoying it, I spent three back in the marina hating it.

YOur boat may not be as big, old or complicated as mine was, but from everything I know they are a major PITA.

My wife wants us to get a small one (like a 20 footer or so like you are talking about) but I am trying my best to talk her out of it.

But advice: Stay away from Bayliner! A good boat is not cheap. Bayliners and a couple others are cheap, and you will soon find out why.

I'd go inboard-outboard. You lose space, but you get (usually) a better engine. More power, more options. If you have one powered by a 350 chevy or soemthing like that, it's cheap and easy for you to fix yourself. You can buy a replacement 350 Chevy anywhere, buy parts for it from a marine catalog, etc. If you get an outboard and it breaks, you get to pay stealer prices for parts, etc.

If you're taking it into the ocean, it should have a good deep vee hull with a pretty deep draught. If the boat is too flat bottomed you risk capsizing it in rough seas.

If you are taking it out into the ocean, especially far from shore, consider dual engines. Towing is expensive, and the Coast Guard can and will fine you for breaking down. (happened to a friend of mine)

Don't buy wooden boats, no matter how good a deal they may seem.

Have it looked at by a boat person prior to buying it. (if you're getting it used)

Be wary of any repairs to fiberglass. If they're repaired right, you shouldn't be able to notice it's been repaired

Make sure you have automatic bilge pumps installed, especially is you're gonna go leaving it tied to the dock while you go into the bar at the marine for a couple hours... :)

Put your keys on a floaty. :grinpimp:


Fred

P.S.: Take a boating course, or at least read up on maritime rules and courtesy. I cannot stand people that do stupid, rude s*** out on the water. And I've seen quite a few of them get into trouble since they didn't know what they were doing. Like not knowing to pass red bouys on the port and green ones on starboard, and getting yourself up on a sand bar or a boulder or whatever.... Passing other boats on the wrong side and coming within inches....
 
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Buy the boat hull separate from the motor and trailer. You will have to pay property taxes on the boat, so you want that price to be as low as possible. The trailer will be cheap in comparison and will usually be below the assessment value. The engines can run $6,000-20,000 easy. They don't need to know about the propulsion and drivetrain, so why pay property taxes on them too? Get separate receipts and you'll be glad that you did. DMV will register the boat and you'll be assessed at the boat value. The engines are "accessories" as you could paddle or sail instead, right? :D

The engines are often worth as much as the hull, but they never check at the DMV to find out what propulsion you are using and how much it costs. They don't care. They only want to know the purchase price of the boat for tax and license purposes. Buy the boat, register it, then have the dealer install the outboards and put it on a trailer. Register the trailer separately too.

Good luck. BTW, I'd buy a fishing boat as they are easier to resell, and they work better in saltwater. Ski boats suck on anything bigger than a ripple.
 
White Shark said:
Buy the boat hull separate from the motor and trailer. You will have to pay property taxes on the boat, so you want that price to be as low as possible. The trailer will be cheap in comparison and will usually be below the assessment value. The engines can run $6,000-20,000 easy. They don't need to know about the propulsion and drivetrain, so why pay property taxes on them too? Get separate receipts and you'll be glad that you did. DMV will register the boat and you'll be assessed at the boat value. The engines are "accessories" as you could paddle or sail instead, right? :D

The engines are often worth as much as the hull, but they never check at the DMV to find out what propulsion you are using and how much it costs. They don't care. They only want to know the purchase price of the boat for tax and license purposes. Buy the boat, register it, then have the dealer install the outboards and put it on a trailer. Register the trailer separately too.

Good luck. BTW, I'd buy a fishing boat as they are easier to resell, and they work better in saltwater. Ski boats suck on anything bigger than a ripple.



they caught onto this in South Carolina. I have to pay taxes on boat and motor, two different tax bills, and you better have up to date stickers and paperwork if you are pulled over (on the water that is)
 
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