I messed up, any ideas?

[Dirty Psyclops]

So I recently “Bought” an 1994 80 series with an 1FzFe from my father. He didn't do much maintenance on it ,so i’m doing my best to tune it up and replace what I can. Part of this process I replaced the following over the weekend.
-Valve cover gasket
- spark plug tube gaskets (+plugs,wires)
- Pcv valve (+ grommet,Hoses)
- Dizzy cap, O ring, and gasket
- Reseal Half Moon
Afterwards I had a terrible Vacuum leak which I chased down to the Throttle body having a crimped gasket which I Fixed. Its now running smooth but the idle is terribly low around 400-450. I messed with the Dizzy to advance it and it helped but not much. Any ideas? 292k Miles

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Download the Factory service manual on Mud (under Resources Section) and re stab your dizzy per instructions and report back

 

[Brindleboxer]

Per FSM 650 is normal idle for a warm engine, mine idles at about 600 and has since I have owned it. Without a means to actually measure the idle and just going off the needle on the rpm gauge this number may be somewhat skewed from person to person.

I would clean the throttle body and IAC, check for vacuum leaks and would also double check all the plug wires and ensure they are seated and proper. Also, if you have the capability, check your timing after you "messed with the dizzy". Factory is 3 degrees but IIRC some set it to around 5 degrees.

Also, assuming you are not presenting any codes?

 

[Dirty Psyclops]

Per FSM 650 is normal idle for a warm engine, mine idles at about 600 and has since I have owned it. Without a means to actually measure the idle and just going off the needle on the rpm gauge this number may be somewhat skewed from person to person.

I would clean the throttle body and IAC, check for vacuum leaks and would also double check all the plug wires and ensure they are seated and proper. Also, if you have the capability, check your timing after you "messed with the dizzy". Factory is 3 degrees but IIRC some set it to around 5 degrees.

Also, assuming you are not presenting any codes?

No codes on dash all cleared when throttle body went back together

 

[80t0ylc]

If you disconnected the battery at any time during your maintenance, then the idle you see now is a result of the ECU relearning. A few more starts and stops and it will come back to normal. this happens normally anytime you disconnect the battery.

 

[HuyFZJ80]

If you disconnected the battery at any time during your maintenance, then the idle you see now is a result of the ECU relearning. A few more starts and stops and it will come back to normal. this happens normally anytime you disconnect the battery.

I have a 94 and every time I disconnect the battery, it’ll idle pretty low until at least a 4-5 cycles of starting/driving.

 

[Dirty Psyclops]

Download the Factory service manual on Mud (under Resources Section) and re stab your dizzy per instructions and report back

Alright so I got a timing light on it and it was sitting around 15 degrees so I took it back to around three but its still idling low and shaking when warm

 

[AgentOrange]

Alright so I got a timing light on it and it was sitting around 15 degrees so I took it back to around three but its still idling low and shaking when warm

This is with the pins jumpered and the engine light flashing, correct?

 

[Brindleboxer]

This is with the pins jumpered and the engine light flashing, correct?

This is referring to jumping E1 to T1 - this is the only way to be certain the timing is set correctly. Also, if you don't already have the FSM and EWD download for free from resources section.

 

[Dirty Psyclops]

Update: finally running and idling good again, for those who asked yes I did set the timing with a jumper wire from e1 to t1. Now the crappy part I just started leaking coolant from no other than the PHH so that will be fun. I plan on looping it with a long hose instead if going through the hard line already have the parts just gotta find the time to deal with it lol

 

[80serie]

Update: finally running and idling good again, for those who asked yes I did set the timing with a jumper wire from e1 to t1. Now the crappy part I just started leaking coolant from no other than the PHH so that will be fun. I plan on looping it with a long hose instead if going through the hard line already have the parts just gotta find the time to deal with it lol

Buy yourself a set of small hands to do this job! Good luck to remove that hard line bottom rear bolt.

 

[Dirty Psyclops]

Buy yourself a set of small hands to do this job! Good luck to remove that hard line bottom rear bolt.

So I got it changed out finally but in the process there was a single wire sensor right to the left of the hose that broke I dont think the wire broke but the clip is broken off of it The picture I added was before I changed it

 

[Dirty Psyclops]

So I got it changed out finally but in the process there was a single wire sensor right to the left of the hose that broke I dont think the wire broke but the clip is broken off of it The picture I added was before I changed it

View attachment 4176441

Before I changed the PHH

 

[Irish Reiver]

Thats likely to be one your knock sensors.

 

[Dirty Psyclops]

Thats likely to be one your knock sensors.

Will this cause a check engine light? If so anything else that it would cause that might be problematic

 

[Malleus]

Yes

 

[Malleus]

The knock sensor failure will cause an decrease in gas mileage. I live with it when it happens, until I have a really good reason to worm my arm in there to fix it. The rear sensor is a PITA to reach, with the intake on.

 

[Kernal]

Ditto: if you're big and tall it would be painful but if you got to the PHH then IME you can get to the rear knock sensor. Important to not damage the wire going to the sensor (better to NOT cut it). Carefully remove the broken end of the knock sensor connector from the harness side connector. IME that is the most difficult part of the job while working from the wheel well and reaching up/in.

Some photos for orientation:

This shows the broken sensor connector removed from the engine harness connector. Ignore the damage to the engine harness terminal that was self-inflicted.

Pressing down on the latch may be enough but IIRC pushing on the red thingy at the same time may help separate that snapped connector from the harness connector.:

NTK sensor from RockAuto:

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[Malleus]

I tried one of those NTK sensors once; it lasted almost a year.

 

[Kernal]

IME if the part was made in Japan by NTK it's good quality, if made in ChyNuh it's likely junk.

Original Toyota sensor on the left. Made in Japan aftermarket on the right.

Rear knock sensor after connector was snapped off:

These are the tools I used to remove the 1FZFE rear knock sensor working from the left front wheel well: Cordless impact wrench, 3/8" long extension bar, 3/8"-1/2" adapter, wobble joint, and 27mm sensor socket. IIRC you also need to remove the dipstick tube to get enough room to work. Floor jack to raise the vehicle enough to get a 12 ton jack stand under left front frame rail, remove the left front wheel/tire, let the axle to droop. Vehicle in Park (both driveshafts installed), Emergency brakes set.