Builds I happened upon a 100 Series 4 month build (2 Viewers)

[74fj40]

I totally get that. Free time is hard to come by. I have a 6 month old and I’m away from home 12 hours a day. I’ve spent less than 5 hours on my cruiser since the baby came in July. It’s our first so I’m still adjusting to this permanent zombie phase...

That’s great your almost 4 year old likes to watch. I loved watching my dad as a kid, learned so much from my dad just holding a light and passing wrenches. Great memories for sure!!

Like I said earlier your doing a great job. I have total 100 Series envy. Would love to get my wife into one.

 

[TEXAS 57]

I hear ya. The first 3-6 months is just being at home.

Alright, got off work early today and kids were at Grandmas till 6 so I had three hours. Spent an hour or so buttoning up the passenger side valve cover - cleaning coil packs gaskets and electrical connections.

I got my solenoid yesterday so I decided to start that.

 

[TEXAS 57]

I tell you what, this sucked... I never want to do this again. Started disconnecting hoses and electrical connectors. Every (not exaggerating) electrical connector clip broke. (I hope they stay on without the clips.)

This is a tough one person job but I did manage to get the plenum off. It took 2 hours and me kneeling on the core support. Let me remind you I broke every single electrical connection clip. Then I could see the starter one of the 14 mm bolts was very easy to get to, the other one was almost impossible I could barely feel it with my finger. I had to unbolt the electrical connection stand on top of the transmission. A ground wire a hot wire and a Nother broken electrical connector and the starter was out.

I noticed a ton of build up inside the intake runners I vacuumed them as I scraped it out along with cleaning the intake gaskets.

 

[TEXAS 57]

Starter analysis:

While I was pulling the starter out I noticed a single ball bearing in the valley of the motor.

It looks like the bearing retainer for the Bendix has come out and I continued to lose a couple more ball bearings. I can see that the Bendix is off-center in the housing. 3/16 on one side and 3/64 on the other.

My Guess now is that the starter was working fine except the nose bearing was gone and allowing the bendix to move up away from the flywheel...

Also, I don't have the correct parts...

These little phillips head screws that hold the starter together are extremely soft and I cannot get them to budge even with an impact screwdriver.

 

[TEXAS 57]

So after fighting with those soft Phillips head screws I have decided to just buy a Toyota remanufactured starter. One will be at our local cheaper alternative to the dealerships, Trans World Services tomorrow at noon for $250ish.

So I have a solenoid for sale.

My mother came over today around noon to watch the kids and I took that opportunity to do the driver valve cover. Pretty simple job but I always over clean everything so it takes a while. Again, every electrical connector clip broke.

I am impressed with the fel-pro gasket kit.

 

[TEXAS 57]

You will see in the above pic one coil pack is discolored. I am not sure what that is all about but I pulled the plug and it looked decent plus the truck ran smooth as silk.

I also figured I would knock out these Heater Ts real quick since it is accessible. 5/8” brass T. They were replaced at some time and looked good.

I also cleaned out MAF and Throttle Body.

Ready for a starter...

 

[74fj40]

Bummer you ended up needing a starter.

Could the coil pack just be a replacement?

Think you’ll make some progress in the seats this weekend?

 

[Julian Stead]

The coil pack is from oil running down the tube or the plug was loose, but judging by the threads it had run down. It looks like you have just fitted new Tube seals in the valve cover so you should be good. The connectors are a bit worrying though, can you buy replacements?

 

[TEXAS 57]

Starter is here... today would be a good day weather wise but got plans with the kiddos

 

[TEXAS 57]

There was a lot of oil around that coil pack so guess that is the issue. Definitely not a replacement.

I am not sure about the connectors, I will slowly look into that. They all plug in tight but with out the clips I am worried about high water and water intrusion.

Not sure about the seats for this weekend. It is going to be cold and I like it warmer for seat cover applications for pliability.

 

[FxFormat]

Going great so far, I love threads that bring these machines back from the brink of destruction

 

[El Cid]

It pains me to say it. Cause I don’t have the mechanical skill, but this approach is where the best value lies.

 

[TEXAS 57]

Had a little time this morning so I bench tested the starter and put it in. Plenum was next with little issue. Make sure you have a flashlight and a telescoping magnet tool to grab the nuts and bolts that fall into valley.

While at it, I dropped a coil pack screw into the skid plates so I removed them and cleaned them off.

Well, I would like to say that everything went great and it did until I fired it up... I got some codes - TPS issue, MAF issue and engine coolant sensor.

The one I know l know about is the coolant temp sender as I crushed it with the manifold when I was removing it.

I also have concerns about the electrical connections not clipped in... they are too easy to remove. This includes every injector connector (remember, every single clip broke).

Runs good though...

 

[TEXAS 57]

Anyone know what this is? It looks new and was in the skid plates when I removed it. It is a soft rubber.

 

[DirtDawg]

I’m shocked that all your electrical clips broke. Out of all the companies I have always been impressed with Toyota’s plugs and honestly don’t think I’ve ever broken any.

One suggestion is use zip ties to make sure the connection doesn’t come apart during normal use. Then just cut the zip tie when you need to unplug the connection again. Also I always put dielectric grease on connectors whenever I have to disconnect them for service.

 

[TEXAS 57]

I’m shocked that all your electrical clips broke. Out of all the companies I have always been impressed with Toyota’s plugs and honestly don’t think I’ve ever broken any.

One suggestion is use zip ties to make sure the connection doesn’t come apart during normal use. Then just cut the zip tie when you need to unplug the connection again. Also I always put dielectric grease on connectors whenever I have to disconnect them for service.

It is odd. My 4Runner clips have never broke. I was doing the work in 50-52 degrees so maybe the cold made it brittle.

I did Zip Tie the starter connection and I also use dielectric grease on any electrical connection.

 

[TEXAS 57]

Come to find out I can order all these little clips. Somewhere on each clip is a 5 digit number and the Toyota parts counter can supply replacements with that #. These #s are small and hard to read.

I broke and need to replace:

Qty 8 - Fuel Injector Connectors - 11153 E56 (not sure what the E56 is)
ECT Sensor Connector (2 pin) - 10736
Water Temp Gauge Sensor (crushed by manifold accidentally while removing)
Water Temp Gauge sensor Connector (1 pin)- 11428
TPS Connector (need the connector that connects to 11122 / 4 pin) - this one literally fell apart when removing
Starter Connector (I zip tied this together so I will not order it).

 

[TEXAS 57]

Thanks goodness for Camelback Toyota.
These connectors were $120 at my local Dealer and $75 shipped at Camelback. Real savings.
They are enroute.

I have had a heater issue. The heater would take a long time to come on (10 minutes) and would blow very cold for a few minutes until getting warm.

I read a post (El Cid was in it) with similar issues and tied that in with the fact that I lost no coolant when changing the Heater Tees to brass ones. Would you believe I was a full gallon low?

Guess what? Heater works perfect now.

Also I cleaned up all the electrical connections and it is no longer throwing codes or the check engine light.

 

[TEXAS 57]

I also bought some $10 Gen 2/3 GPS update DVDs off eBay. The first did not work. They sent me another, it did not work either. They sent me a refund.

 

[TEXAS 57]

I need to start looking at lifting it.

What I am after:
2.5” lift
Doesn’t need to be overly capable.
Needs to maintain a civilized luxury ride.

Any suggestions?

I am reading the aftermarket TBs are too stiff so I may just crank the original TBs.

Need some nice shocks for the horrible Houston streets and Springs for the back.

I am not opposed to spacers for the back but all of my other builds have been suspension lifts. This just needs to be higher for high water and aesthetics.

Reminds me to check to see where the rear diff breather is. I saw the front in the engine compartment.