I am making LC Scale Kits & Accessories for mud!

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1:8 and 1:16 scale wheels, for size reference.

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@CruiserTrash tool a break from learning 1:8th scale to make you a fresh set! All green! I have to ship a few things out Monday and will bundle yours in then.

You’ll be getting different color kits in future as well, so you and mix and match because that’s just a lot of green. After 3-4 kits you’ll be able to have a different color for exterior, interior, and chassis/drivetrain. It will look more like the model photos then. For now every kit will look like my living room.

Total of 5 all-green kits coming this weekend. This is for Landy Mini.

Let me know if you’d like one as well!

Also coming soon, The Rock Warriors we can all afford!
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Yikes! I was under the impression these are all RC models, but turns out the 1:16th are for display only it looks like. I don’t see anywhere I could mount electronics to in the manual.

@CruiserTrash looks like we will be testing 1:8th scale instead. I am researching manufacturers for electronics and keep you posted. You still get the 1:16 but unless I missed something in manual, it looks like it’s for display only.

The 1:8th is definitely a bigger diy job, but don’t worry it also comes with a bigger manual. After I’m done building first one I will send over to you; likely cheap electronics at first then we can upgrade over time/add more options.
 
@SharpeCat Heck, don’t doubt me man. Maybe I’ll try to put electronics into the 1/16 anyway 😉

Question:
With 3D printing is it easy to scale parts? Say you have a piece that is a 1”x1”x1” cube … is there a way to change a parameter and make the dimensions half, or whatever % you want? I know next to nothing about 3D printing.
 
CruiserTrash said:
@SharpeCat Heck, don’t doubt me man. Maybe I’ll try to put electronics into the 1/16 anyway 😉

Question:
With 3D printing is it easy to scale parts? Say you have a piece that is a 1”x1”x1” cube … is there a way to change a parameter and make the dimensions half, or whatever % you want? I know next to nothing about 3D printing.
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LOL, me and you both buddy. It doesn't sit right with me that this isn't setup for electronics, as i want to drive my Tabletop Display model around my table, dang it!

It does have "Real Suspension" they say, so it's more designed like an RC car than a still model. I will begin taking a look at ready-to-race 1:16s and see what i am missing. I know all the pieces we need to make this one remote controlled is around here somewhere, and we just need to look around.

I can scale some 1:8 parts down or i can just adapt it for electronics. I can even just grab another model and bring the body over; like an OPENRC model or something. We will figure this out for sure.

And Yes, that is pretty easy and works exactly as you imagine. I can scale all or x, y and Z individually within seconds.

Today i am working on this:

@ivshust hasnt been on for a while, but he left us with this beauty:

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Since it doesn't run yet, i can make it in any material i want so i will begin trying to match the original colors now. When it starts running and we break the PLA parts, i will go back to using PLA+ and stronger materials; right now these display kits are overbuilt lol.
 
@SharpeCat 653 Olive forever. Such a beautiful color on that truck.
 
SharpeCat said:
I made this album to help me visualize FJ40 colors; i just saved photos i found on mud and threw a quick name on them. Anyone can edit and add to this; to help me identify and try to get filaments properly color matched in the future.

photos.google.com

FJ40 Photos for Color Identification / Matching · Jan 1, 2002 – Jun 12, 2022 📸

Shared album · Tap to view!
photos.google.com photos.google.com
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Somebody should do this for 60s, but only for the “blue” trucks since there are about four different colors of blue. I feel like a lot of people just say “my 60 is blue!” Without knowing that it could be one of the four.
 
CruiserTrash said:
Somebody should do this for 60s, but only for the “blue” trucks since there are about four different colors of blue. I feel like a lot of people just say “my 60 is blue!” Without knowing that it could be one of the four.
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LOL, yeah there are a few blues even in the 40s and even though I haven’t gotten to the 50s and 60s, I can only imagine selection getting better. You’re 1 step ahead, or two, by the way!

Let’s just say the “Mud Museum” idea I’ve been toying with for months, will begin with Minis and 40s. With time, we will grow it to include all series; in both stock and 100% accurate including mods, for mudders who share their mods. The goal is to put everything under one roof, miniature one at first, for us all to draw ideas and inspiration from.

Yes, you read that right. I’m not only learning how to make mini LCs, i want to to learn how to make Mini Mudder LCs. This means tiny little roof racks, winch, bumpers, drawers, mounting systems, etc. Im learning to build my future dream cruiser, by learning how to replicate everyone else’s with the miniatures. It’s going to be great when these things grow to 1:1 scale one day.

I am starting with color matching the filament for 40 series, but want to be able to offer painted versions later for all.

The filament is being color matched using paint codes, so I am learning Land Cruiser paint codes in the process. My goal is to learn how to replicate original colors first, 1 series at a time, and then add aftermarket colors on top.

So each series will get their own album, and I’ll also make a master album that’s all series combined. After you properly tag them for the sort, the idea is that eventually we will have enough examples to get us an accurate idea of the real color; regardless of camera differences, lighting conditions, settings and etc.

Idea is if you have 50 photos tagged “Olive 653” and 5 look brown and most are green, then it’s likely the 653 Olive’s true color is on the green side and not brown. Also, out of all the green ones tagged with 653 color code, if most are more army green than lime green, then likely army green-ish is the more accurate representation.

I’ll make the initial albums/do initial round up and put it out there when we get to the 50s and 60s, and together we can improve it over time. I will make a separate Google account specifically for this purpose, maybe Mud Manufacturing? No wait, it’s gotta be “MUD MUSEUM”.

I don’t see why we can’t have both! I am busy for another hour or two or I can think of at least one reason: someone sees this and snags it to secure it for me.

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Idea for smoothing out your parts? What till the end where he uses acetone on the chess pieces.
 
The Jade Bean said:


Idea for smoothing out your parts? What till the end where he uses acetone on the chess pieces.
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Yes, there are post processing options and that is one of the best ones; that one is an Acetone Vapor bath and used primarily for ABS as acetone maybe too strong for PLA. It's very fast and effective; I plan on building some sort of container for bathing the ABS parts in bulk/automatically, when we get to the functional models; like a "acetone bath tunnel/enclosed conveyor belt" sort of thing. He did a great job by the way.

For PLA, there is a similar process called Annealing, where you bake the layer lines away as well as give it more tensile strength (less "sudden snaps"), using something like an oven or boiling water. The hard part is preserving color in post.

So for now, i'll just try and best to clean it up in the software so it comes out without needing post, in combination with custom colors designed to be an authentic match to the Toyota Land Cruiser factory colors.

For the Perfectionists who are willing to wait longer/long term, imho best way to do a "authentic" color match is to paint. There is an easy way to not only automate this process, but also to ensure a perfect coat every time; i just haven't gotten to finding it yet. For now, my approach is to clean up slicer settings and order custom filament to keep things simple; and i have my airbrush gun to get me by until i have a way to automate painting.
 
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I’m moving to PLA plus as a minimum, and just don’t see much reasons for going normal PLA moving forward. PLA plus prints better, is much more flexible/stronger, and since going custom colors long run, it won’t matter that it has a smaller selection of colors. It also won’t melt in your car as easily (up to 200F).


Long term I think maybe nylon carbon fiber can be added to the mix, as well as polycarbonate for things like drivetrain components. Petg and abs can be an option as well, but let’s put the regular PLA away for good for this project; even the glow white trim pieces/headlights can be remade in ABS or PETG.
 
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@SharpeCat how did you know I’ve always wanted a glow in the dark roof????
 
Toying with the idea of buying these from local Walmarts for $20 each, and transplanting electronics over to the Landy Mini. This way I have something to work with to check fitment and ensure compatibility with electronics.

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www.walmart.com

New Bright (1:16) Ford Bronco Battery Radio Control 4X4 Truck, 1688U-7G - Walmart.com

Buy New Bright (1:16) Ford Bronco Battery Radio Control 4X4 Truck, 1688U-7G at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com


www.thingiverse.com

3D Sets Models Addons: A Collection by 3dsets

Check out 3dsets's collection 3D Sets Models Addons: .
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com

Another place to browse for accessories/mods.
 
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Well, this is embarrassing!

I just realized we've been driving in the wrong lane!

Need to get over to the BAMBOO LANE, and not the LANDY Lane.

I've actually been printing Land ROVERS, and not CRUISERS.

Fine, *I'VE* been driving us down the wrong lane.

Don't worry, redemption is coming; Hopping over to the proper lane now!

Google Photos

Home for all your photos and videos, automatically organized and easy to share.
photos.google.com

New prints coming this week, and we are just starting with 1:8 scale this time as that is default scale for the LAND CRUISERS.

@CruiserTrash don't worry boss i will still send you the 1:16th LAND ROVERS kits, but i am shifting my priorities now to Cruisers in 1:8th and we will now be building and testing that instead. First one still has your name on it, but only difference now it’s a *little* bigger, and comes with more parts. I will take care of the electronics for the first kit!

Time to ask my friend for my Kraton back for testing, until I get a lower rpm motor for the rock crawler build; I will ship off everything properly geared for rock climbing unless you prefer a racer build. Kraton 6s factory speed is about 60+mph so not really ideal for rock climbing, but we will work with what I have for now. It is more than good enough to get me started on the first one.

Anyways, going to be nice to see those TOYOTA plates come out of the build plates soon. Please forgive me clumsiness.

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@SharpeCat I ain’t sweatin either way! The old Landy’s are pretty cool … I don’t love them like Cruisers, but they have their thing going on!
 
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