How to restore FST doors

[cruiserloser]

All-
Based on a request from a separate thread, I will be developing a how-to thread on restoring the factory soft-top door. To get things rolling, I would appreciate some feedback on what to cover. Here's what I am thinking so far:

• Disassembly of the door
• Component repair
• Preparing components for refinishing
• Assembly and tips
• Parts: sourcing, availability and options

What else should we cover?

Thanks,

Dave

 

[Indygbd]

I think that would be a great start. Looking forward to following thread.

 

[JohnnyC]

Maybe these instructions on restoring FST doors from sor will help you with making instructions on restoring FST doors

Link: Doors - Canvas Makers Guild

 

[cruiserloser]

Those are great, John. Maybe we can cover some ground that's not in the SOR write-up.

Thanks.

Dave

 

[A10Driver]

Are these rare, I have two that I am not needing

 

[Indygbd]

Are these rare, I have two that I am not needing

Not that rare. If they are fj25 fst doors, they might be. Any photos?

 

[A10Driver]

Not that rare. If they are fj25 fst doors, they might be. Any photos?

Here u go

 

[Indygbd]

Here u go

View attachment 1540467

Those are regular fj40 fst doors. Hard to tell without other photos showing condition, however I would say they are worth 450.00-500.00 range for the pair. Maybe a bit more.

 

[cruiserloser]

In an effort to cover some new ground, and to offer up something a little different than the SOR bit that John mentions above, we will pursue a complete disassembly, reassembly process. In order for me to do this with pictures, I need to get my hands on a couple of doors. Unfortunately my closest set is 50 miles away and it will take to the weekend to retrieve them. We must not be deterred...let's begin.

Step #1 - Soak anything that either twists or spins with PB Blaster (or your penetrant of choice). This includes:

• The hinge plate bolts
• The door latch mechanism - all parts
  
• The screws holding the steel weatherstripping channels to the main frame of the door. This will require the removal of the door-to-body weatherstripping. (NOTE: There are only two ways to remove these screws - 1. Unscrew them 2. Drill their heads-off if they are rusted and stripped. I will cover this again, but DO NOT TRY TO PRY THE WEATHERSTRIPPING CHANNEL OFF OF OR AROUND THESE SCREWS. At best you will bend the channel and at worst you will create a raised spot on the back side of the channel. These are very hard to straighten and that whole exercise is completely unnecessary.

Step by step pictures to come soon, I promise. In the meantime, here is a little in-process pic, because a thread has to have pics.

Dave

 

[thecrazygreek]

Materials list would be nice. I did a set of these a couple years back and I used material from Trollhole (a PVC canvas), rubber from SOR (the only place I found to have it) but one thing thats gets overlooked are the little screws (and theres a ton of them) that hold the trim that holds the rubber. I didnt want to re-use the old ones as they were rusted or beat to hell. I never did really find the "correct" screw, just one that worked. Knowing the exact type of screw (dimensions) would be awesome as a tip in your write up.

 

[63cruiser]

Any update on the rebuild of the doors? i am hoping to rework my doors this winter. Have the fabric but that is as far as i have gotten. Still too nice out to put her away for good the fall.

 

[63cruiser]

i may not be the first person to ask this but is the quarter window size different on the FST doors vs the vent on hard doors? Could you modify the fst to make it work? Sure would be nice to make that work.

 

[cruiserloser]

OK. Here we go. I have placed my hands on a set of doors, and soaked everything that spins in PB Blaster. If you have not done this, please do. There are a couple of parts that do not respond well to post-trauma repair.

As we go, I will try to collect the little parts that go into a door. Here's a start.

 

[scott fasken]

Hi I had found a piece by Nuclearlemon on re doing doors.

Question for Nuclearlemon

I got a set of doors last week. So am looking hard to learn how to do it right.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[cruiserloser]

Step 1:

Remove door hinge plates. This requires a 12MM socket or wrench. If they do not spin easily, resoak in PB blaster. I do not recommend heating as you could light the vinyl door skin on fire.

Step 2:

Remove door handle assembly. My door handles were already off, but here are the things to remember. The door assembly consists of the outside door handle and inside latch, washers and two nuts. Here is a pic of the two handle pieces

The outside handle has the threaded post and a square "key" that goes through the door, through the inside latch handle "key way" and is covered with a flat washer and two nuts that serve to lock the assembly in place. For removal, you must carefully remove both of the nuts and gently separate the two handles. DO NOT BREAK OFF THE THREADED STUD ON THE EXTERIOR HANDLE IN THIS PROCESS!!!!. It can be repaired, but it is really a pain. I recommend isolating the interior nut with a 10MM wrench and then addressing the outer nut as they are designed to be "locked". This will also take a bit of pressure of the base of the threaded stud. Here is a pic of the suggested:

 

[cruiserloser]

BTW - Thanks for the link to Nuclearlemon's post. Good stuff.

 

[scott fasken]

No thank you for this great thread!

 

[cruiserloser]

Step 3: Remove the window frame for the slider window. The window frame is mounted to the door frame with six Phillips head screws (2 long ones- 20MM that hold the bottom of the frame to the door and also hold the bottom window cushion/block in place (see pic) and 4 10MM screws that have a split washer. Again - soak these with penetrant and gently work them out if they are rusted.

Step 4: Remove the door weather strip channel. If you have not already, remove the rubber weatherstripping that wraps around the entire door. This weatherstripping can be sourced new, so unless yours is in perfect shape, do not worry about damaging this as it is at least 40 years old if original. Hit all of the screws underneath the W/S with penetrant for a couple of days.

Next is the process of removing the 40 screws that attach the W/S channel to the door frame. If your doors are like many others, about 30 or so of the screws will come out easily. The ones on the bottom of the door are usually the problem. Over time water collects in the bottom of the door and rust these little screws out. They disintegrate or strip as soon as you put a screwdriver on them. In this case, I carefully drill-off the head so that the weatherstripping channel can be removed. I use a 13/64 bit at very low speed to clear the rest of the head, but stop short of widening the hole in the metal w/s channel. The goal here is to clear the channel of anything that may bind it against the door frame. Once these screws are cleared remove the lower U-shape portion of the channel. DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE CHANNEL OVER ANY REMAINING SCREW HEAD OR OTHER CORROSION THAT MAY BIND IT TO THE DOOR. We want this piece as undisturbed as possible, which includes the surface that lays against the door frame.

 

[cruiserloser]

i may not be the first person to ask this but is the quarter window size different on the FST doors vs the vent on hard doors? Could you modify the fst to make it work? Sure would be nice to make that work.

Anything is possible, but the parts are not interchangeable between the door types.

Dave

 

[voyager:01]

I just found this thread and am completely loving it... but what happened to the rest?