How To: Repair Sagging Seat Back Pocket on LC
- Thread starter TheForger
- Start date
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I did this solution. I couldn’t bring myself to spend $50 in broken clips…. I’m sure you could pretty of the zip tie end / cover / different color match zip tie…
I used smallest zip tie. 1/8” drill bit for the 2 holes on each cover.
I used smallest zip tie. 1/8” drill bit for the 2 holes on each cover.
I messed up posting of pics and didn’t show the clip of the single zip tie that is connected to the bar behind the cover. I clipped off an end of another zip tie and used that to secure the back to the zip tie sticking out.
This is genius. An adjustable solution. Why didn't I think of it!Great write up guys!
I just did a quick fix for now....
But will follow your process to repair the top elastic cord.
This is a fantastic thread. So many awesome options to fix these stupid sagging shock cords.
I opted to use a pry tool and a heat gun to soften the plastic enough to remove the metal rings without breaking them.
With a bit of patience, heating it slowly, then prying, I was able to get the ring off without breaking the “nub”.
One other thing different on my 97 is how the seat backs attach to the frame. There are two Phillips screws that need to be removed with a stubby screwdriver from below at the bottom of the seat back. If you feel there with your finger you can feel the screw head.
After removing those, you push the top portion of the panel TOWARD the seat and DOWN at the same time and the panel slides out. Installation is reverse of removal.
On my 80, the old cords had knots tied into the end and then the entire knot “blob” had been heated up to the point of melting and then stuffed into the plastic rail thing. So I did the same with my new cord. This reddish brown cord was the closest color I could find on Amazon.
ED symptoms in full display...
No more “ED” (elastile dysfunction). Both sides start to finish plus install took only 20 minutes total.
Thanks to everyone in this thread for the ideas.
I opted to use a pry tool and a heat gun to soften the plastic enough to remove the metal rings without breaking them.
With a bit of patience, heating it slowly, then prying, I was able to get the ring off without breaking the “nub”.
One other thing different on my 97 is how the seat backs attach to the frame. There are two Phillips screws that need to be removed with a stubby screwdriver from below at the bottom of the seat back. If you feel there with your finger you can feel the screw head.
After removing those, you push the top portion of the panel TOWARD the seat and DOWN at the same time and the panel slides out. Installation is reverse of removal.
On my 80, the old cords had knots tied into the end and then the entire knot “blob” had been heated up to the point of melting and then stuffed into the plastic rail thing. So I did the same with my new cord. This reddish brown cord was the closest color I could find on Amazon.
ED symptoms in full display...
No more “ED” (elastile dysfunction). Both sides start to finish plus install took only 20 minutes total.
Thanks to everyone in this thread for the ideas.