I have a '99. Bought the MB Quart RVF 216 package for the front, which has 6.5" for the doors and .75" component tweeters that I adapted onto the original tweeter mounts just fine (break original tweeters off the glue, screw new tweeters into the mounts...fit perfectly). I couldn't find my order information on what I put in the rear doors, but I'm pretty sure they were also 6.5" full range MB Quart speakers that I found locally instead of online (otherwise I'd still have the online order information and could tell you exactly what I bought). You have to take the original speaker mounts, cut the stock speakers out of them and cut down the paper riser on the original speaker mount to get the right offset of the speaker. Or somehow create your own mounts. Either way, most speakers, even shallow magnet speakers, are too deep and will block movement of the door window unless you get a significant riser mount. The trick of using the original speaker mounts was great. Just make sure you cut the paper down enough so that the speaker doesn't move against the speaker covers on the doors, but not too far that you end up blocking the window. Before you go too far with this, make sure whatever speakers you got are not too deep as to block the window movement.
How To: DIY Door Speaker Swap - UZJ100 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter bamachem
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Is there a reason that you went with the 6.5 instead of the 6.75 like the original poster? Getting ready to swap them out, and just trying to decide which way to go.
Anthony.L
Looking for the end of the road...
6.5 and 6.75 is the overall diameter, not the mounting cutout diameter. The cutout varies from speaker to speaker, just because it says 6.5" doesn't mean the cutout is the same. 6.5 and 6.75 are a gray area, both being very close in cutout size. If a 6.75 will fit in the cutout then a 6.5 can be made to work as well.
Pick the speaker you want, it will work with little effort.
^^^ There is your answer! Anyway, I think it had more to do with them being interchangeable, and if I remember the product I got was either better, or cheaper, or both, than getting a 6.75 from MB Quart. Or maybe even just not available in a bass/tweeter speaker combo for the front anyway. As it turns out, I probably could have just bought two pairs of the same set, as the fronts with the bass/tweeter pair are also designed so you can mount the tweeter in the middle of the bass speaker and use it in a single location application as well (like the rear side doors).
Did the OP replace the stock mid bass subs?
I think he just bypassed it and ran a smallish sub box with an amp bolted to the back of it (Andy, correct me if I'm wrong). My step dad own this truck now and it looks/sounds like the bass is all coming from the after market bass box. Oh, and it sounds 100 times better than OEM.
Pictures not working/ host site down.
I know bummer!
Sent from my iPhone, please embrace the typos
Sent from my iPhone, please embrace the typos
Can anyone recommend a sub that would fit?
I can't see the pictures !!!!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Pics and reference are for a 2000 Cruizer.
First, you need to get the right supplies. I purchased (4) Polk Audio DB675 6.75" Coaxial Speakers for the doors. To mount them, I had to trash the factory speakers and then use part of the baskets as mounting brackets. I used the factory wiring with clip to that basket, then wired in the new speakers from there. I'm replacing the amp with an Alpine V12 (or two) and replacing the stock 4" woofers with some 4" Kicker midbass woofers. I initially bought a Kicker 8" square L5 Sub, but there's no way that it's going to fit in the original enclosure. If the Kicker 4"s don't do the job, then I'll build a small box for the 8" and just have it removable and keep the 4"s for midbass fill.
I initially had some trouble removing the door panels - that pesky door handle is a bear if you don't know how it attaches. You need to remove the power window switch by sliding a screwdriver under the front edge, pushing in on the clip and then lifting it up. From there, you remove the large phillips screw that's down in the access hole under the switch panel. After that, you need ro use a phillips screwdriver and remove the screw that holds the door handle trim ring on the door panel - it's behind that little flap in the middle. Then, use a small flat-head screwdriver to remove the door handle trim ring. To do that, you have to slide it between the pivot parts of the handle and the outer ring, prying the outer ring up and over some little snap-tabs in the back. Take a look at the pic for more detail on how it comes apart. Next, you need to push in the center of the locking tabs on the bottom half of the door and then remove them. Then you use a phillips to remove the screws along the bottom edge of the door panel. On the front doors, you also have two additional screws at the front-top of the panel that are hidden behind some round trim-caps. After all that, then you have to pull outward at the bottom, then slide the whole thing up and off the sheetmetal lip at the top of the door. Don't forget to disconnect all the wiring clips and then you can set the door panel aside.
I used some clippers to snap the plastic speakers from the trim rings. I then mounted my 6.75" speakers in the rings and wired them up. On the clip at the door, the side that has the "blade" on the clip is the positive lead - just look at it and you'll see which one I'm talking about.
I then installed the speakers, wired them up with some crimp-style clips, then replaced everything in reverse.
So far, the sound is MUCH improved with much better clarity and fullness of sound. Next will be the subs and the amp...
(PICS to follow ASAP - I'm having trouble with my hosting page...)
I just found this thread - any chance you could re-load the pictures? Thank you!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
Damn, pics gone!
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