HOW TO: Detailed DIY for Remote Start/Alarm/Keyless Entry (1 Viewer)

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[FONT=&quot]Does the insurance company care if you installed the alarm? [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I remember when I was stationed in New Mexico the insurance company wanted receipts for installation of alarm and stereo. They claimed that it needed to be professionally installed from them to cover the vehicle’s aftermarket equipment. I would like to do this install since my truck alarm let me down and almost cause me to shot over a GPS. I hate people that steal. My factory alarm is starting to give me problems and I feel much safer, if it was upgraded before I spent money on my baby.[/FONT]
 
[FONT=&quot]Does the insurance company care if you installed the alarm? [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I remember when I was stationed in New Mexico the insurance company wanted receipts for installation of alarm and stereo. They claimed that it needed to be professionally installed from them to cover the vehicle’s aftermarket equipment. I would like to do this install since my truck alarm let me down and almost cause me to shot over a GPS. I hate people that steal. My factory alarm is starting to give me problems and I feel much safer, if it was upgraded before I spent money on my baby.[/FONT]

I didn't tell my insurance company about it, when I originally insured the LX, they just asked if it had an alarm, no specifics. I don't believe having an alarm, or not, will change their coverage (this would probably be regulated state by state), it just gives you a minor discount on your premiums. If you want the cost of accessories or add-ons covered by your insurance, you will probably need receipts, this is not specific to alarms, but could include bumpers, stereos, etc. You could contact your agent or the state insurance office for specific info.
 
Only if the caveman will drive a 95 cruiser and not a 93 cruiser like me :hillbilly: :flipoff2:!

:beer:
96 LX! :beer:

Hopefully the info is still somewhat helpful to other model years...
 
Ben, thanks for the excellent write up!

I'm curious to why you didn't install the other relays (acc, ignition, etc...).

I'm in the middle of replacing an alarm the PO installed (Clifford Matrix RSIII) with a new Clifford Matrix 3.3x (similar if not the same as your viper). The PO installation has five relays in it - I haven't tested the wires yet, but I imagine they're starter, ignition, acc & not sure what else (flex relay?). Bleh, just when I had everything under control I pulled out that brick of five relays. :)
 
There are built in relays in the alarm ECU/brain. Did not have a need for external relays for all the normal alarm/keyless/remote start functions. The only external relay I used was to trigger the light retaining relay, to "trip" the door switch signal and thereby shut off the headlights, when the truck is turned off. You can do a lot with relays, even create your own remote start using an alarm (beyond my capability, but I saw diagrams on the12volt.com)...
 
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What a great, through write up, my hat is off to you. Those remotes are sure PINK ;*). I support the Cure too, so understand that.

When I wired my '93 ten or so years ago, I did not have a factory alarm. When accessing the electric lock/unlock switch, I looked in the driver's door, and discovered about 200,000 wires going this way and that. I backed off and went into the door lock/unlock switch in the passenger side door - two wires. It has worked great ever since. I recently had to order another remote control, as the two that came with it just wore out, so it is working again.

I wish I had thought to do a write up, but did not, and my old memory retains only that one shortcut.

Jack Nichols, 1993 Cruiser, nickname "Gold Digger Repellent"
 
There are built in relays in the alarm ECU/brain. Did not have a need for external relays for all the normal alarm/keyless/remote start functions. The only external relay I used was to trigger the light retaining relay, to "trip" the door switch signal and thereby shut off the headlights, when the truck is turned off. You can do a lot with relays, even create your own remote start using an alarm (beyond my capability, but I saw diagrams on the12volt.com)...

Yeah, I just figured that out after typing my post. The previous alarm module did *not* have the heavy gauge connector. Instead a small gauge connector was used to trigger the relays when using the remote start button.
 
Ben, are you going to connect the tach. input wire on the remote start input cable? My previous alarm had its tach. line attached to one of the wires going to the coil (igniter). The tach. wire is used to determine if the vehicle is running or not (prevents starter grind?).
 
No need to connect the tach wire, there is a "smart sense" (or something like that) method it uses, basically it can tell by the change in the voltage from the running alternator. I believe that is even the preferred method per the Viper manual. There is a setting in one of the menus if you want to use the tach lead instead. Every time I have heard it start, there has been no grinding, and the starter has shut off as soon as the engine was running.
 
Yes, it's optional on an automatic, but mandatory on a manual transmission vehicle.

I'm finally devoid of all previous install & old cell phone wires. I almost want to put it all back together as is. :) Anyway, hopefully I'll get it all in over the next few evenings.
 
Thanks for the great write up Firetruck (Ben). I've replaced the RS3000 with the Viper 5701. Anyone tried the iPhone SmartStart yet? Mine is getting installed next week.
http://www.viper.com/SmartStart/iPhone/

Sassy
 
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Would this connector be present in an '94 FZJ80?
 
Ben--awesome writeup! This makes me want to go buy the 5701 specifically for this application.

I must have missed something. What is the purpose of the 4 Radio Shack diodes? Can you do without them?
 
Ben--awesome writeup! This makes me want to go buy the 5701 specifically for this application.

I must have missed something. What is the purpose of the 4 Radio Shack diodes? Can you do without them?

The diodes are required for the door lock/unlock to work correctly, as well as the door input signal. Without them it will not work, the remote locking will be inoperable, and the alarm brain will not know when a door has been opened/closed. These diode would be required with any aftermarket alarm system.

There may be a way around this if you find a way to run the door lock/unlock wiring to the master switch in the drivers door, and run wires to every door/hatch switch for the door input. That sounds like a giant headache though.
 
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Would this connector be present in an '94 FZJ80?

I'm sorry, I don't know. If you have the EWD for 94, you can look it up.
 
The diodes are required for the door lock/unlock to work correctly, as well as the door input signal. Without them it will not work, the remote locking will be inoperable, and the alarm brain will not know when a door has been opened/closed. These diode would be required with any aftermarket alarm system.

There may be a way around this if you find a way to run the door lock/unlock wiring to the master switch in the drivers door, and run wires to every door/hatch switch for the door input. That sounds like a giant headache though.

OK Gotcha...thanks.

Do the diodes go 'stripe-end' toward the Viper wire or toward the chassis wires?
 
OK Gotcha...thanks.

Do the diodes go 'stripe-end' toward the Viper wire or toward the chassis wires?

Honestly can't remember, by the time I wrote it up, I had shrink wrapped the diodes/wires and didn't have pics of the bare diodes. You can test it by twisting the wires or clipping them together and then using the alarm and seeing if it locks/unlocks. The stripe will be the same for the pair of wires going to the lock/unlock, and IIRC, they both face the opposite way for the door trigger. I do know that each "pair" will face the same way together.
 
What wire do you tap into for the dome light? From what I read my clifford alarm has a built in relay for the dome light so I hope I don't have to wire one up(no remote start).
 
Fantastic write-up! I will probably buy the exact same kit specifically because I know you made it work.

Forgive my ignorance on the issue (and I did do some searching), but where will the T-Harness be located if in fact my truck has one already (also a 96' LX450 with RS3000). And if I don't have one, I've seen some t-harnesses available online like this one...

Bulldog Toy-4 T-Harness

Will this harness not suffice, or at least be a good starting point?

Thanks!
 

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