How to adjust your 2f valve clearance

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5. Adjust the valves. Figures 2-40 and 2-41 above show the actual adjustment. with one hand on the right side holding the feeler gauge in the slot between the rocker and the valve, the other hand loosens the lock nut and adjusts tension with the flathead screwdriver (2-41)
The feeler gauge needs to be able to slide in and out of the slot after the adjustment.

It's worth mentioning here again that you need to rotate the flywheel another 360 degrees around and back on the TDC mark to have the rotor pointing 180 degrees the other way before adjusting valves "c" and "d" in the chart.

I find it is possible to leave a box wrench on the lock nut without a hand on it momentarily and it can balance there while you turn the screwdriver and move the gauge back and forth in the slot. When you have the adjustment correct switch both hands to the left and holding the screwdriver still, snug the lock nut with the other hand.
If your dizzy is off a notch will you have to readjust the valves again if you adjusted them with it off a notch?
 
I've always used the engine running method myself, but never thought to video it while doing it. It seems more accurate to me as the resistance on the feeler guage is more universal than on a stationary tappet where it can vary depending on angle, whether the cam is exactly centred and how much oil is on the particular push rod. You slide the feeler back and forth and get a good feel for the resistance: too tight and the feeler is hard to slide, too loose and there's no resistance. Just right and it moves steadily with very little resistance.

I like that cold/hot chart a lot @2mbb
 
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