Hinge pins (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lmajor32
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Yes, fj40 ones not so sure about over vehicle pins. Stainless pins are not machined to as tight a tolerance as the carbon steel ones.
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- #3
I think I follow you.. So the steel door pins from CCOT or stainless from SOR below both will work?
Land Cruiser Front Door 1963-1974 40 & 45 Series
Door Pins & Bushings for Series 40 - 45 - 47
Door Hinge Pins - Door Pins & Bushings for Series 40 - 45 - 47
Stainless will work in plastic bushings just fine, if you are using the brass bushings sold on mud the. They take a slight bit of sanding to get the tolerance down to fit in the brash bushings. Yes both will work. I have both sets of the pins you are referencing here. I use the steel as a placeholder to paint hinges, and the stainless to ultimately use
My advise, set up an electrolysis tank and run the windshield hinges thru that for a day or 2 before you attempt to get the pins out. They will put up a fight like you have never seen! Two of us just went thru the process, had prob 3 of the 6 hinges with broken pins. Ended up drilling and punching what was left out.
Electrolysis tank instructions
forum.ih8mud.com
Tornado takes the top off 1964 SWB FJ-45
there is a small window to topcoat the POR in the cavity under the seats, so took that opportunity to lay down a protective layer of epoxy before applying seam sealer. There are a LOT of seams on a truck.
forum.ih8mud.com
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- #7
I have the brass bushings but they don’t fit into the windshield hinges. They fit in the door hinges perfectly but are too big for the windshield holes. Was just planning to use door pins without bushings but just worried about them coming out since the original pins for the doors don’t have the ribs that press into the hinge to hold them in (not sure what they’re called)
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- #8
Thanks but too late...had to have them drilled outElectrolysis tank instructions
Tornado takes the top off 1964 SWB FJ-45
there is a small window to topcoat the POR in the cavity under the seats, so took that opportunity to lay down a protective layer of epoxy before applying seam sealer. There are a LOT of seams on a truck.
Size w drill bit I believe is correct for the inner section of the windshield hinge to drill for the brass bushing. Will probably require a slight clearance towards center of the center section of the windshield hinge to fit the shoulders of the brass bushings. Holler if you need more help
bushings go in the center aka upper half of the windshield hinge only
Size w is what we used. To sand the stainless pins, I chucked them in my drill press and used sandpaper till the bushing just fit. I don't own a lathe, the head of the pin fit above the teeth to get the bottom sanded. Go slow and check often, I started with plumbing carbide paper, ended with 1000 grit
what your referring to is called knurled . And the pins I have both have them. From left to right, stainless cut down for hood hinges, stainless ready for windshield hinges and steel I use to paint.
The knurling in the pin should have been the give-away that the bushing went elsewhere.
You need to drill the hinge size w drill bit. To get the inner hinge piece to fit the bushings
goes together with bushings only in this part. Hinge pin goes as shown. We only drill as deep as the bushing needed did not drill thru but that might be an option
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slight clearance might be needed here and here for thickness of bushing shoulder
do NOT drill the outside portion where the knurled part of the pin goes or the end of the pin. Do NOT drill this half. You got this. Hard part was getting the old pins out.
I started working on my hinges. I cannot get the stock pin out. Any advice?
I had to pull the hinges, cut the pins( they were worn halfway through any way), soak in PB, and wack with a punch and BFH until they popped. Never needed heat.
They are tricky to set in a Vice.
Currently working on removing a ws hinge. Original screws have never moved.
They are tricky to set in a Vice.
Currently working on removing a ws hinge. Original screws have never moved.
