High Oil Pressure

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F

FLCRUIZER

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At the suggestion of my mechanic I changed to 20W/50 on my last oil change. This was based on my mileage (216k) and oil consumption (1-1/2qt) between oil changes. He thought it would help reduce consumption. Now my oil pressure guage is a few needles away from being pegged. On a 20 minute ride to work it stays high and only slightly drops when sitting at red lights. I noticed from searching that no one else seems to be running the weight oil. Am I looking at doing some damage? Oh, it did not help oil use.

My mechanic is good but his specilaty is Datsun/Nissan Z's. He has zero experience with Land Cruisers.
 
could be I would just run what you always run, remeber I see trucks at the mud run all the time smoke blue all day and running fine, its the end of the day when they stop smoking that causes problems, just keep her topped up and run some LUCAS oil stabilizer in it! A bottle every oil change, thats what my old ford got!!
 
What ambient temperatures are you seeing?
 
My pressure went up quite a bit when i switched to 10w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic from the convential stuff. Not pegged, but pretty close on the freeway, i was wondering about this also!
 
I've been using the Bg oil stuff with every oil chane. Works great. When my old head was burning oil, i'd throw that stuff in with the oil change. Would help a lot. Seemed like I wouldnt burn as much oil when I used it.... Also sounds like you might have some bad vavles.............
 
It's not at all suprising that with 200k+ miles that your engine is burning 1.5 quarts per oil change. I would not ever be concerned with that consumption. That being said, I don't expect that the 20w50 should come anywhere near pegging the pressure gauge. You should have your mechanic check the actual pressure with a mechanical gauge, and if that is high, figure out why.
 
MoJ said:
Whatta ya gettin at Dan?
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20-50 is kinda heavy unless you are operating at high ambient temperatures.

mid 90's is warm.

I was asking for a weather report to see if the ambient temp contra-indicated running 20-50. It does not.
 
What year 80?

I have run M1 15w-50 oil with no problems, It gave one of my better oil analysis results.

Peak relief pressure was the same as with other oils, it just got there sooner.

If I were back home in St. Pete I would likely try 15w-50 all year.

Where exactly on this scale are you reading now and also where before? Idle and at driving speed?

With all oils mine tops out just above or below the 2/3 mark usually at about 2k rpm or higher, at idle is hangs out just below the 1/3 mark, thicker oils it will be above the 1/3 mark at idle. When the engine is cold it will be at the 2/3 mark regardless of RPM.

if you are getting extremely high oil pressure take a look into the oil pressure relief valve, it is easy and cheap to replace. You will need the plunger, spring and seal washer.

Could also be bad indication.
EPG.gif
 
low oil pressure

I've been running Mobile 1 Full Synth 5W-30 for several years on my 1997 80 series. I started running it at around 68k and I have 120k miles currently. Just recently, over the past few months I've noticed the oil gauge needle is slightly lower than middle during normal driving. During idle I noticed today it was reading zero (or the first hash mark, I'm assuming is zero). Ambient temps were in the low 70s today. The oil level is full on the dip stick. Is this harmfull to run extremely low oil pressures when at idle?

- JJ
 
rockclmbr said:
I've been running Mobile 1 Full Synth 5W-30 for several years on my 1997 80 series. I started running it at around 68k and I have 120k miles currently. Just recently, over the past few months I've noticed the oil gauge needle is slightly lower than middle during normal driving. During idle I noticed today it was reading zero (or the first hash mark, I'm assuming is zero). Ambient temps were in the low 70s today. The oil level is full on the dip stick. Is this harmfull to run extremely low oil pressures when at idle?

- JJ
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It can be, I would look into it, pressure relief or bad indication. possibly oil squirters not closing. or high oil temprature.

Also could be worn parts witch is unlikely on a 120K rig,


CruisinGA I agree a 50wt may be a thicker than ideal, a 1FZ in warm weather will get enough flow.
 
Simply my experience but when I went with 20w50 synthetic and even with 15w50 I noticed not only increased oil pressure ( not as high as an almost pegged condition but higher than normal ) as well as decreased throttle response (almost like it lagged the turbo down). I switched to 15w50 within 100 miles of putting in the 20w50 and then I switched to 0w40 within another hundred miles of putting in the 15w50. It was an expensive month with oil but i was worried about the higher oil pressure and pissed about the decreased throttle response. I would switch to 0w40 or even 5w40 if i were you. HTH. :cheers:
 
I think I'll change it out this weekend with Rotella T 5w-40 syn. I've been using Rotella T 5w-40 syn. in my street bikes for years now and it works great. It keeps the bike running cooler which is easy to tell when you're sitting over the engine. This is the first I've heard of anyone running it in their car because it is a heavy duty diesel engine oil and most people think it will cause damage. Plus it will give me a chance to fix my low oil level indicator and get the cheap oil filter off.
 
I was running Rotella T 5w-40 syn and had start up rattle, switched to Mobil 1 15W-50 and no more rattle. Runs at the 1/3 mark at idle and 2/3 mark on the highway. 20W-50 is recommended for 100+ degrees in the rest of the world, the thin oil recommended here is probably political/EPA related.
 
Tools R Us said:
the thin oil recommended here is probably political/EPA related.
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I think that is the case, prolly related to eeking out the last 1/16 of a mile per gallon.
 
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