cruiserdan said:A supercharger runs $3,299.00
Jeezus he doesn't want to take a step backwards!
Help sourcing Safari Turbo Exhaust Housing - .82AR
- Thread starter yoda-g3
- Start date
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Jeezus he doesn't want to take a step backwards!
Awesome!
Welds look good, GT35 is a good option just remember to keep the oil getting to it clean and no more than 60psi. I look forward to seeing how it turns out really interested to see how the tuning goes.
- Thread starter
- #43
Kind of my initial thought..... I had toyed with it briefly, but with the work of removing all the turbo crap, getting stock exhaust, and tieing into my aftermarket stuff it didn't seem very viable. What might be a good discovery is I just saw this Garrett GT3582R and was wondering if I got it in a .82 AR with the "T3, 5 bolt Ford Style Discharge for Internal or External Wastegate" option, I get then get this "Flapper Valve with Ovalized Opening T3 5-Bolt" to sandwich between it and my Safari down pipe I might be in business a few hundred $$$$ ahead. From what I can tell that housing with the flapper flange is pretty damn close to the width of the complete Safari housing. Much less fab work if the flapper matches up to the wastegate port.
I sent them an email to get more details.
- Thread starter
- #44
Awesome!
Welds look good, GT35 is a good option just remember to keep the oil getting to it clean and no more than 60psi. I look forward to seeing how it turns out really interested to see how the tuning goes.
I've heard this mentioned a couple times, I assumed that the Safari fittings addressed this, but how do I make sure of the PSI going forward?
I would not assume anything out of the Safari fittings. Remember the safari turbo is a journal bearings turbo and the GT35 is a ball bearing. The oil feed and drain fittings and flanges will be different sizes from the journal bearing fittings. I would talk to the people selling the turbo to determine there recommended restricter.
Generally a BB turbo that sees to much oil pressure will bypass oil into the exhaust and intake. The restrictor is used to drop the max pressure to prevent this journal bearing turbo's are not as susceptible to high oil pressure.
Whatever............;p
If you can't find or afford parts for it, it doesn't matter how good it was......
- Thread starter
- #49
UPDATE:
Well I gotten lucky in the sense that I've come up with a solution to all of this.
First off, before I pulled the trigger on this I had a leak down and compression test done on the engine. It was sitting cold for a few weeks so the compression test was a bit sketchy, but the leak down showed comfortably in the green for all cylinders.
I have to thank the guys over at G-Pop Shop the most as they were the only ones out of 10 major turbo shops I contacted that would even tackle this. With their help we came up with the following
- New turbine wheel $165 (from them)
- New Ford 5 bolt .82 housing $275 (from them, and it has provisions for an add-on Waste Gate swing valve.) They don't have a link on their site but this is what it looks like: 5 Bolt .82 Housing
- 5 Bolt waste gate swing valve $95 FROM HERE
- While they have it I opted for a complete rebuild, probably not entirely necessary but its out so might as well do it. Service runs $450 for their "performance" rebuild that includes higher grade journals and oil seals and return shipping. (Standard rebuild is $350.)
The nice parts of this combo is that the dimensions and bolt patterns are almost an exact match to the safari. The most that might have to be done a minor tweak to my new down pipe or add a flex portion.
So just about $1k for an essentially 'new' beefed up unit that matches the Safari specs almost perfectly. This is almost $1k less than I would've been looking at doing a GT35R swap out. Add the $400 to get my manifold welded up, another $50 for new studs / gaskets, and I'd say it could've been worse.
Moving forward I'm installing a snorkel (lower IAT's), ditching the EGT and adding an AFR meter, and will get a dyno done to establish how lean it was running.
Well I gotten lucky in the sense that I've come up with a solution to all of this.
First off, before I pulled the trigger on this I had a leak down and compression test done on the engine. It was sitting cold for a few weeks so the compression test was a bit sketchy, but the leak down showed comfortably in the green for all cylinders.
I have to thank the guys over at G-Pop Shop the most as they were the only ones out of 10 major turbo shops I contacted that would even tackle this. With their help we came up with the following
- New turbine wheel $165 (from them)
- New Ford 5 bolt .82 housing $275 (from them, and it has provisions for an add-on Waste Gate swing valve.) They don't have a link on their site but this is what it looks like: 5 Bolt .82 Housing
- 5 Bolt waste gate swing valve $95 FROM HERE
- While they have it I opted for a complete rebuild, probably not entirely necessary but its out so might as well do it. Service runs $450 for their "performance" rebuild that includes higher grade journals and oil seals and return shipping. (Standard rebuild is $350.)
The nice parts of this combo is that the dimensions and bolt patterns are almost an exact match to the safari. The most that might have to be done a minor tweak to my new down pipe or add a flex portion.
So just about $1k for an essentially 'new' beefed up unit that matches the Safari specs almost perfectly. This is almost $1k less than I would've been looking at doing a GT35R swap out. Add the $400 to get my manifold welded up, another $50 for new studs / gaskets, and I'd say it could've been worse.
Moving forward I'm installing a snorkel (lower IAT's), ditching the EGT and adding an AFR meter, and will get a dyno done to establish how lean it was running.
Looks good, especially in terms of fitting back into the existing Safari stuff.
If you decide to coat stuff, and have to ship anyway, might be worth pricing these guys too
Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings | Technical coatings to solve problems of heat, wear, corrosion, and friction
Lots of good reviews/comments on their stuff. I went with them - mainly because they are local - but might be worth a look.
What are the specs on the actuator you have on there (psi)?
If you decide to coat stuff, and have to ship anyway, might be worth pricing these guys too
Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings | Technical coatings to solve problems of heat, wear, corrosion, and friction
Lots of good reviews/comments on their stuff. I went with them - mainly because they are local - but might be worth a look.
What are the specs on the actuator you have on there (psi)?
- Thread starter
- #53
I'm not sure on the actuator specs. I just told them that I planned on running between 7-10 psi and they replaced it with something.
I'm under a HUGE time crunch now t get this thing back on the road so the only way its getting coated is by a local shop. I just can't decided if its worth the hassle or expense. Have you found any hard data on it? I was thinking of a standard coat on the downpipe, and the fancier Jet Coat style on the inside and outside of the manifold, housing, and elbow.
I've only seen/read that the stuff that is essentially "paint" eventually just pops/peels off rather quickly.
If you go local at least you'll have a place to go back to if you have problems instead of having to remove parts and ship them.
There's definitely a science to it and pretty much anything you can do to keep under hood temps lower is probably a good thing.
If you go local at least you'll have a place to go back to if you have problems instead of having to remove parts and ship them.
There's definitely a science to it and pretty much anything you can do to keep under hood temps lower is probably a good thing.
No flippen way... Reading this got me a little concerned about my Safari Turbo setup, so I pulled the heat shields, and sure enough, the turbo flange/housing is cracked very similar, maybe not quite as bad. The exhaust manifold seems to be ok from what I can see, won't know for sure until the turbo is pulled. So the turbo has been working fine, and obviously it's going to have to be rebuilt or replaced, so is it a big deal to drive her lightly until I can pull it? What am I risking besides further turbo damage? Great thread by the way, you have done A LOT of research on this.
Bumping this thread, I am going through this too. Looks like it is inevitable for these.
forum.ih8mud.com
Safari Turbo Destruction-Rebuild
Well, pretty bummed. it started with the turbo seizing on Friday. took it apart Sunday night and found cracks. The turbine housing is cracked.
forum.ih8mud.com