Help on side the road instant death wobble

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WckedMidas

WckedMidas

Joined
Apr 25, 2005
Threads
177
Messages
959
Location
baltimore
Website
www.monsterfishkeepers.com
Hey man 86 4runner 5 speed 22 r blah blah ok. I had a bad wobble yesterday chalked it up to tire having bubble or busted belt. Put other full size spare on. Truck was fine. Yesterday and all morning. 10 miles back wobble came from o where. Realy realy bad forcing wheel back and forth barley control it. Now the only thing I no for shore is bad in my front end is my cv axle has had busted boots three years. And I'm pretty shore my pa $engr hub doesn't unlock. Now when I had the wobble before I never had any noises just wobble. This time sound ed like smakedy smakedy smack. Could the cv axle being bad. And that hub not unlocking cause a major death wobble? Can the cv axle be taken out without undoing the ball joins can the spindles stay conected ? Remove the hub and spindle nut. Unbolt from the dif and remove by pulling out the back without removing everything else ? I got a new cv axle riding in the back of the truck.
 
It is possible to remove the CV without removing ball joints.... Although it's not a ton of fun. Best advice I can give is that the 6 "bolts" holding the cv to the axle tube are actually splined studs, even though they have a 17mm hex head. Use a brass drift to pound them out and sand off the splines so they can be re-used as a normal bolt. The truck needs to have weight on the control arms... Of the suspension is at full droop, you'll never get them out.
 
Check your steering bits. Tie rod and draglink ends, plus the idler.
 
Simply your saying u can't do it without dropping the ball joints but other threads are saying u can. Anyone else Wana chime in please. I got a mechanic friend coming but we gonna be doin this outside in the rain. In the next hour or to
 
To do it without the lbj removed you'll drop have to drop the lower control arm. The lbj removal is the best way. I've done it both ways.
 
Read my post again, I said you CAN do it without removing ball joints. Getting a new idler arm drastically improved my steering.
 
Already replaced idler arm because I thought that was original problem. Then decided it was my tire put my other on it went away then came back next day. But worse then it ever was.
 
I would check the free/easy stuff first, like Pappy posted. Steering parts, TRE, dampener, also check the ball joints and shocks. Wheel bearings. Check for play in the steering box. Even the rag joint on the steering shaft. Costs nothing to check all this stuff.

Remove that sticky hub if you have to. Once the hub is unlocked, the CV will not spin and it will not be the culprit. Remove it later when you have a warm dry place to work.
 
I'm getting to where I think I've put to much money in the dam thing in three years. I've replaced the intire fuel system from fuel tank to motor new custom made lines. Had injectors rebuilt . Rear wheel bearings. Front rear brakes wheel cylinderS calipers. .aster cylinder . Altinator. Head gasket head. Lower intake exhaust manifold . Use to be a auto now a 5 speed. Wrecked it last winter replaced steering box. Steering stabalizer. Tierods. New clutch fly wheel when I swapped it over . I no I did more then that in three years. Brand new ngk plugs wires
 
Could be other tires. I had two two tires bulge Over one hot weekend. Are the tires pretty worn out?
 
Just paid a guy to change my cv axle easy oly 80 bucks but I think he took longer then I would have . Waste of money but now I no how to do it next time
 
When locking dial goes on should spring be compressed or open in the free mode my tabs were bent and it didn't work before. Stretched the spring fixed the tabs
 
When in the free position the spring will be compressed. When in the lock position the spring will be extended with the clutch all the way out. It is possible to be in the free position with the clutch all the way out. You just need to make sure when you assemble the hub the clutch is compressed, the dial is in the free position, and you line up the little tabs on the clutch with the wide groves in the hub body.
 
I'm just curious, did the mechanic think that the CV was the cause of the problem?
 
Yeah that's what he thought. But u got a understand I bought the truck three years ago with busted cv boots. Bought a axle and ran it till it finally gave up the ghost. The knuckle of it next to the spindle was as dry as u could get. The inner one still had grease. But once u bolts it came apart in three sections. And due to my locking hub being stuck in lock mode it was spinning constantly. And with dry knuckle caused binding. Atleast it didn't wobble coming home. Find out tomorow when I go work I guess. And I put the spring compressed in free mode when. We put it back together
 
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