Help Identifying Aftermarket 2F Carb (1 Viewer)

[FJake60]

Hey everybody. Just joined the world of 60s a couple months ago, and now I'm finally digging into the engine bay to get familiarized and to tidy up some of the PO's work. It's been desmogged (at the top of the list of things to double check) and has some aftermarket carburetor that I need some help identifying. It's not the stock Aisan , from what I can tell (I'm a noob to FJs AND carburetors). The PO said it was a cheap aftermarket knock-off, but I don't have much more information than that. I can't make out any identifying marks, though I'll keep looking. I've done a fair amount of searching here on Mud and around the net, but haven't seen this carb yet. I'll keep searching, but I thought I'd post up some pictures in case any of you experts could help me out in the meantime. Thanks!

- Jake

 

[FJake60]

Here's a few pics of the carb removed ... now it's time to replace some carbs:

 

[Racer65]

See this.

Short answer: You have a Chinese built aftermarket version of the 21100-61012 carb.

 

[FJake60]

See this.

Short answer: You have a Chinese built aftermarket version of the 21100-61012 carb.

Awesome! Thanks Racer! I guess my "fair amount of searching" wasn't as "fair" as I thought. I made it to your site when looking for Euro mirrors for the 60 (which I still need to pull the trigger on), but I must not have been thinking about carbs then because I completely missed your carburetor listings.

I guess the next obvious question would be what's the difference between what I have and the stock Aisan one? I'm having a hard time seeing a difference between my Chinese one, your Japanese aftermarket, and the Toyota carb ... at least on the surface. As I mentioned before, I'm new to both the TLC and carburetor scenes. I'll continue to look for answers I guess.

I also have a Weber carb the PO threw in with the FJ. He was planning on swapping to that, because he wasn't happy with this carb, but I'm hoping I can learn how to dial in what I have to make the 240k 2F a little happier. I've got some catching up to do.

 

[FJake60]

I'm also curious how you can tell mine is Chinese and not from the Land of the Rising Sun ...

 

[FJake60]

Found this post by Jim C: "...I assume you are ekeing out every last bit of performance/efficiency.
In that case I would suggest (in order of preference) 1976, 1975.
They all have 38/40 throttles and 31mm primary venturis, but they also have gianormous 35mm sec. venturi..."
"Late model to me is the 81-87 stuff. They are also good carbs, w/ the same basic dimensions as 1976."

I'm assuming China carb is 81-87 ... comparing it to the two on your store page, Racer.

 

[FJake60]

... So new I don't even have the *edit* ability yet ...

To revise my above post, I should have noted the "...all non-US have 31/33 venturis." So my carb, doesn't fit into Jim's "good carb" list?

 

[Racer65]

I guess the next obvious question would be what's the difference between what I have and the stock Aisan one? I'm having a hard time seeing a difference between my Chinese one, your Japanese aftermarket, and the Toyota carb ... at least on the surface. As I mentioned before, I'm new to both the TLC and carburetor scenes. I'll continue to look for answers I guess.

If you do not see any difference, that's exactly what one would expect. Remember what I said in the other post about there is only a single part # available?

How do I know your carb isn't from the land of the rising sun? Actually it's pretty simple:

1. Notice how the OEM carb in my store photo has the letters "Aisan" casted below the fuel bowl window? That's OEM branding and if anybody copies that they'd be big trouble. Since your carb doesn't have those letters it's got to be aftermarket
2. Until recently when I brought the Fuji version to market here, all aftermarket 21100-61012 carbs sold in the United States are made in China. It doesn't matter where you look - Ebay, SOR, Trollhole, you name it. It may be made by different factories in China, but it's always Chinese made. If you search for "21100-61012" on eBay, you can find this carb for as little as $67. Be very careful with those, as stories of metal shavings inside and carbs being shipped out of spec are abundant. This is why people pay a premium to buy from a trusted vensor like Trollhole, who has done the leg work to filter suppliers and quality check the goods. For the same reason, buying OEM or Japanese aftermarket made by a publicly traded company gives you assured quality and peace of mind.

 

[Racer65]

Here's the "Aisan" casting I referred to above:

 

[FJake60]

If you search for "21100-61012" on eBay, you can find this carb for as little as $67. Be very careful with those, as stories of metal shavings inside and carbs being shipped out of spec are abundant. This is why people pay a premium to buy from a trusted vensor like Trollhole, who has done the leg work to filter suppliers and quality check the goods. For the same reason, buying OEM or Japanese aftermarket made by a publicly traded corporation gives you assured quality and peace of mind.

This just makes me want to find out what I have even MORE haha. Any ideas on the little serial number tag on top? I think mine reads H3662. How would I go about finding my supplier? I'm not one to buy the cheapest thing on the market to save a dime, because you always end up spending more in the long run. I'm a firm believer in finding QUALITY parts as a priority, and the right price falling in behind that. I'd just like to get a handle on where I sit with this carb in the quality field.

Thanks again for your help!

 

[FJake60]

I think I'll have to dig out my calipers and figure out some dimensions, unless one of the pros out there can magically tell me if I have a $67 ebay purchase, a THC carb, or something in between . I think Trollhole puts logos on his though, right?

 

[FJake60]

... In other news ... I passed 10 posts and have gained the ability to edit!

Level. Up.

 

[FJake60]

I'll get a tiny bit off topic here and go back to say that this was by far the best car buying experience I've ever ... experienced. The PO was probably one of the most down-to-earth honest guys I've met and really appreciated his (now my) FJ. I made a 20hr round trip with a buddy to drive down and trailer it back and he made it a painless ordeal. I keep in contact with him mainly for questions about the 60, so I texted him (maybe I should have started with that) asking for some documentation and he gets back to me in about 30 minutes with this:

The guy kicks a$$ ...

I wonder where Russo Power (Illinois) gets their FJ40 carbs? I'm a little bit uneasy, given the price tag. Time for some more digging.

 

[Spike Strip]

The H3662 is the Aisan aftermarket part # for the 21100-61012. The Aisan (OEM not in a Toyota box) is sold in other parts of the world. The Chinese clones copy that number.

Like Racer said, if you're gonna buy one, save yourself the potential headache and either get one from MUD vendor Trollhole, who had done the work to ensure products with qood quality control, or buy one of the Japanese clones or OE carbs from Racer.

 

[FJake60]

The H3662 is the Aisan aftermarket part # for the 21100-61012. The Aisan (OEM not in a Toyota box) is sold in other parts of the world. The Chinese clones copy that number.

Like Racer said, if you're gonna buy one, save yourself the potential headache and either get one from MUD vendor Trollhole, who had done the work to ensure products with qood quality control, or buy one of the Japanese clones or OE carbs from Racer.

Thanks for the clarification Spike!

If I may clarify a bit myself, I'm not looking to buy one (yet). I just bought my 87 FJ60 and I'm looking to identify what the PO already has on it. In this case, a $140 ebay find. I'm trying to find out if this ebay carb needs to be eighty-sixed for one of the carbs you mentioned or if it is worth holding on to.

The problem I'm having is I have no prior experience driving or even riding in a 60. So what I have is all I know as far as opinions on performance in my 2F driven FJ60 with 240k on the ticker.

As I think I mentioned before, I have a brand new Weber I can throw on for comparison purposes, but I'm not all that interested in running permanently with the Weber after everything I've read.

 

[FJake60]

I picked up one of racers Japanese Fuji carbs. It's a much better product in my opinion

Noted. Thanks for the input. Once I figure out what kind of quality I'm currently running with, I'll keep that in mind.

 

[slacker24-7]

I deleted my earlier post to stay positive . Racer sells a quality product with his Fuji carb

 

[Spike Strip]

If the truck is running well (idles smoothly around 700, smooth acceleration, decent - for a cruiser - gas mileage) leave the carb alone. You can tell a lot about the condition of the engine if you put a vacuum gauge on it and get a steady pull at idle around 17" to 21".

 

[FJake60]

If the truck is running well (idles smoothly around 700, smooth acceleration, decent - for a cruiser - gas mileage) leave the carb alone. You can tell a lot about the condition of the engine if you put a vacuum gauge on it and get a steady pull at idle around 17" to 21".

Vacuum gauge is on the top of the tool list already. Will definitely check that out. I'm currently tackling a couple exhaust leaks. The EGR cooler hose block-off plate being the largest leak (read: loudest). It's hard to hear how everything's running, but it does idle wonderfully. Though it takes a good 10-15 minutes to warm up (even on 90°+ days) where it doesn't stutter at take-off without the choke.

 

[Spike Strip]

Time to check out the thermostat for proper operation and/or installation.

For the block off plate get the OE Toyota gasket. The others blow out and you get that tick-tick-tick.

Stuttering may be cuz it's taking too long to warm up...