Help! Another Stumble/misfire 22re (1 Viewer)

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Mar 7, 2012
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Location
West Virginia
Alright, lets do this. I know this isn't easy, but I've searched a lot and not found any answers.

I said I'd never have an EFI motor but a '94 truck just fell into my life and I can use it so, lets try to make it run right. I'm pretty good at working on diesel engines, everything on the farm is diesel. This is only my 2nd EFI (my 1st was a tercel that was parked due to a 'random cylinder misfire) and 4th gas vehicle ever, so I'm lost on what is going on inside.

The issue is directly related to throttle position and after only driving the truck for 3 days i'm getting better at making the stumbling start/stop. Basically, this is how it goes: Starts fine, may or may not idle high. Sometimes I can start driving and everything fine. The issue starts when you release the gas pedal, the engine stumbles, maybe flooding? and will regain it's self if you push the pedal back down. Everything is always fine when you are accelerating (full pedal to the floor), but I feel there should be more power? (my g/f 84 22r has more power) When going down hill the engine runs very very rough stumble, bucking, unless you are going down a steep hill with your foot all the way off the gas pedal. So to re-cap full throttle accelerating: runs great, No throttle down hill: runs great, anywhere in between: runs awful.

Most times it idles fine, but sometimes it will change and be low and real rough and if you rev it it will sputter like it's gonna die, but wont. Even when running fine the throttle seems not very responsive/ slow to rev.

Like I said, I've just got the truck and it came to me with the issue. PO had had it in 2 different shops multiple times and all I can find out is the AFM is brand new. Throttle body looks like it's from an older truck w/ RTV slimming it on. Also brand new cat. Muffler is rusted out. I guess the PO said the issues just started one day and it ran well before that. Runs well 60% of the time.

I've not checked much. I took valve cover off, everything looks good. Dizzy could be replaced, but not bad. The rotor button moves lose on the shaft, but I don't know if that's a problem? I put a timing light on it and the timing is close to 5 but jumps around a lot. Going to change wires, cap, etc but I don't think that is it.

I believe it's unrelated, but it warms up pretty hot sometimes if you start driving and drive up a long hill slow. I think it's a bad thermostat but haven't replaced it. Seems completely unrelated to the engine running issues, and it's only happend 2x.


Ideas?
 
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I would not assume anything sinister until you take care of the basics. Starting with plugs, wires, and dizzy cap is a great place to start. After you take care of those basics repost back with the results and we can go from there.
 
Don't forget to check the valve adjustment.

Make sure the tps is set correctly.
 
I was thinking valves 1st, but my magnetic base dial indicator wont work with the valves and I can't currently find my feeler gauges, so I have to get another set next time I'm in town. I'll look up testing of the TPS. It says "remaindered". The rtv on the top doesn't seem watertight.

I replaced the plugs and ran Lucas injector cleaner, with a nice placebo effect afterward.

Finally, ran the codes and found 2-2, I guess this is '22' coolant temp sensor. That makes sense with the erratic temp/ idle. When I listen to it idle for a few minuets it will be fine, then puff, it sucks air from somewhere and is dead.

I'm already ordering a new thermostat. Is there a way to test this sensor or should I wait for the new thermostat?
 
I would replace the sensor if you have a code. It will be one of the two sensors on the thermostat housing. One is the cold start time switch, the other is the thermo-sensor. Shoot, if you have the coin I would baseline and replace both.
 
I'll look up testing of the TPS. It says "remaindered". The rtv on the top doesn't seem watertight.

Sounds like you are mixing up the TPS (throttle position sensor located on the throttle body) and the AFM (air flow meter located on the air filter box.) If the TPS is off it can make things run goofy because it effects engine timing, mostly at idle.

It is not uncommon for gents to cut open the AFM and adjust the wheel to make the engine run richer. This could be part of the problem if they moved the wheel too far, or if it got wet.
 
Correct, I did have those mixed-up thanks for the correction. I'll try again: AFM was replaced by a PO with a 'remain' unit that has new RTV on the top that doesn't look water tight. The thing (throttle body?) that is stuck on the manifold looks like it's from an older engine and has RTV slimming it onto the manifold.

Just ordered Coolant Temp Sensor and Toyota p/n 90916-03070 thermostat.
 
Another question: Can someone explain the plastic screw that is beside the cold start injector? I remember reading about it leaking air and that it turns out on its own. I looked at that last night and it was turned all the way tight. I removed it and put a new o-ring on it and turned it back tight, no difference.
 
The thing (throttle body?) that is stuck on the manifold looks like it's from an older engine and has RTV slimming it onto the manifold.

There should not be any RTV on the throttle position sensor. Since you are running a 94 I can't help with the part number to make sure it's correct for the engine. Toyota used a bunch of them, but many are cross compatible (I run an 87 TPS on my 85).


Another question: Can someone explain the plastic screw that is beside the cold start injector? I remember reading about it leaking air and that it turns out on its own. I looked at that last night and it was turned all the way tight. I removed it and put a new o-ring on it and turned it back tight, no difference.

The plastic screw controls the idle up for the AC. It should have no effect until you kick on the AC, then it bleeds air to kick up the idle.
 
New update: Waiting for parts to arive so I thought I would play around with the Coolant Temp Sensor. I pulled the one from the '97 tercel and had it ready to sick in the truck before too much water came out. When I took the connector off the suspect sensor it was covered in oil, as well as that whole area due to a leaky valve cover gasket. I just cleaned the connections really well with break parts cleaner and put it back together. :confused:Wow? was it really that easy? No more check engine light or awful running. I also put in an older TEq thermostat a had that doesn't close all the way and that fixed the 'warm up to much during warm up' issues. Still need a new muffler, to install new parts and set valves. Still feel like there should be more power, but I think what was throwing the code and making it kill its self was oil in the connection. I guess what I needed to order this whole time was a Gasket.
 
Alright, one last update. Fancy thermostat fixed the over heating. Finally got around to setting the valves, and boom, all is sweet. Thanks to all for the help. There's another great running 22r-e on the road.
 
Glad you found a solution to your problem. It kind of makes you wonder what happened at the shops the PO took the truck to.
 

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