Heater core pipe solder question. (1 Viewer)

[fjgdk]

When soldering the brass pipes to the heater core as many suggest to do, do you leave a gap between the two flanges for the solder to get in or do you put the pipe flanges (of the heater core pipe to the brass pipe) as close together as possible (touching)?

While not a professional plumber, I have sweated/soldered copper pipes before, but the thing I am unsure of with soldering the heater core pipes to the heater core is whether solder will sufficiently get into the places it needs to get to if I push the two flanges as close as possible.

 

[Hojack]

Make sure and get emery cloth and clean both ends really well, flux paste the ends and then solder. Dirty copper will not solder. Heat will pull solder into the fitting. Get a dry rag and wipe solder off end of pipe clean and a cool damp rag to set and cool the pipe. Cover area around work area of any solder slag to protect from damage.

 

[fjgdk]

Make sure and get emery cloth and clean both ends really well, flux paste the ends and then solder. Dirty copper will not solder. Heat will pull solder into the fitting. Get a dry rag and wipe solder off end of pipe clean and a cool damp rag to set and cool the pipe. Cover area around work area of any solder slag to protect from damage.

Thanks but this doesnt really give me much I dont already know. My question is tough to explain without a visual so I will try my best again.

My question was whether the solder will flow through adequately between the two equal flanges butted up against each other OR if I should solder in between a gap I would have to make between the flanges? Let me try to draw this below:

 

[georgebj60]

I think any gap would be hard to fill with solder. I would push it as tight as possible, solder filling any gaps that remain.

 

[fjgdk]

I think any gap would be hard to fill with solder. I would push it as tight as possible, solder filling any gaps that remain.

Yes the problem is there are two flanges of equal diameter, and one pipe extends into the other. In my “typical copper pipe” (plumbing) at the top of my drawing, one pipe fits into the other and when soldering you have access to the point where the pipes fit into each other.

With the heater core brass piping, one pipe fits into another BUT the circular flanges if pressed together prevent you from getting right to the point of the pipes being inserted into one another. That is what I am concerned with and why I am thinking to leave a gap between the flanges to have access to the pipe insertion point when soldering. The male pipe is long enough to fit into the recieving end with a gap and still be far enough inserted into the receiving end.

I’ll take a live picture when I get to the shop to better illustrate.

 

[georgebj60]

No, I understand the situation. I have recently gone through the heater core conundrum myself. I chose to leave the connections as Toyota did, but installed new Toyota O-rings. Not just any O-rings (regular rubber ones are not correct).

Personally, I think the O-ring/snap clip set-up works fine. And I think the brass tubes do not fit snug enough to offer easy, successful soldering, though some people have had success going that route.

If you have flux, and heat the pipes on either side of the flanges more than the flanges themselves, then solder should be drawn into the joint. I would still push the flanges tight, but not clamped tight. Push them in, hold by gravity and solder.

Well, that's what I would do anyway. Of course, always more than one way to tackle something. Good luck, maybe someone that's actually done it can respond with their process...

 

[fjgdk]

No, I understand the situation. I have recently gone through the heater core conundrum myself. I chose to leave the connections as Toyota did, but installed new Toyota O-rings. Not just any O-rings (regular rubber ones are not correct).

Personally, I think the O-ring/snap clip set-up works fine. And I think the brass tubes do not fit snug enough to offer easy, successful soldering, though some people have had success going that route.

If you have flux, and heat the pipes on either side of the flanges more than the flanges themselves, then solder should be drawn into the joint. I would still push the flanges tight, but not clamped tight. Push them in, hold by gravity and solder.

Well, that's what I would do anyway. Of course, always more than one way to tackle something. Good luck, maybe someone that's actually done it can respond with their process...

Oh Ok thanks, I didnt realize you had seen these pipes before- the heater core job isnt frequently tackled so I wasnt sure. Now that I look at the flanges again, I can see that I agree with you now as they arent perfectly flat up against each other, they sort of bend inwards to accomodate the rubber o-rings, which should help get the solder in the joints. I’ll try as you suggest.

 

[fjgdk]

Also, here are some pictures for those interested :

 

[georgebj60]

Oh yes, looks very familiar. Well, keep us posted. I would be curious as to how easy/well this solders up. And I guess you have to be extra careful putting the hoses back on from the engine side of the firewall. You don't want to flex anything to crack a solder joint...

 

[Spike Strip]

From this thread: FJ60 heater core concerns

 

[fjgdk]

Ugh, Went ahead with the operation and on one of the pipes while soldering it accidentally fell (on the pipe), knocking it slightly out of alignment. Even worse, the jostling occured while the pipe was real hot and I think it messed up the factory pipe connection to the heater core.

What should I do about this crack ?

 

[FJACS]

Solder it.

Brush it with a brass brush to clean the area up, reflow the solder and add a bit more.

 

[georgebj60]

If you can't get it, a rad shop should be able take care of it pretty quick.

 

[fjgdk]

Solder it.

Brush it with a brass brush to clean the area up, reflow the solder and add a bit more.

That factory solder is a ton of solder, you really think I should re-solder ? The crack on the exterior may not necessarily be a leak; the heat may have simply melted some of the solder which was pulled in via capillary action even deeper on the joint. I dont know, just trying to justify not addressing the crack I guess.

It’s hard to find a rad shop nowadays.

 

[georgebj60]

I would not put that back in the way it is. It looks exactly like mine, or worse. And when I had mine pressure tested, it leaked.

 

[fjgdk]

I would not put that back in the way it is. It looks exactly like mine, or worse. And when I had mine pressure tested, it leaked.

Worse because of the crack at the factory solder joint ?

 

[georgebj60]

Yeah, the crack mine had at the same spot didn't look as bad. I tried to find a picture of mine, but I couldn't find one. I guess you could always pressure test it yourself using a hose.