HDJ62

[BrickRunner]

Hi All-

Interesting update: I discovered a strange sound originating from the front of the engine only to eventually hear a crack and a pop! Not sounds that are particularly reassuring. After some extensive poking around, I eventually discovered there was a hole in the timing belt cover and noticed the pulley connected to the IP was making contact with the plastic housing. Not good.

View attachment 3998496

I took off the cover only to discover that the previous owner--in his genius--decide to reattach the pulley with a mere single fastener, rather than the four that it requires! Rather happy I was able to catch it and mend it before the issue grew more catastrophic! The poor remaining fastener was finger tight and hanging on by a thread, so I am very grateful I caught this. I have a new plastic cover/housing and gasket on the way.

View attachment 3998497
In any case, got it all back together and took it for a spin now that I have proper coolant temp on the dash. Stoked to take some laps around the neighborhood with 'er!

View attachment 3998499

I'm noticed an unacceptably high voltage on the alternator circuit (~16V) so I need to figure out what the deal is with that. The alternator connector just slotted into the alternator, so I assumed there was not anything else that needed to be done for voltage regulation. Perhaps that was an incorrect assumption. I have it disconnected for now so I don't overcharge the battery.

View attachment 3998500

Do you know if the wiring harness is from the FJ62, the HJ61 or a mishmash?

My HJ60 originally had a external voltage regulator but a PO had converted it to an internal regulator without doing the necessary rewiring/removal of this connector by the left hand fender and it gave me erratic high voltages.

 

[seatosummit]

Do you know if the wiring harness is from the FJ62, the HJ61 or a mishmash?

My HJ60 originally had a external voltage regulator but a PO had converted it to an internal regulator without doing the necessary rewiring/removal of this connector by the left hand fender and it gave me erratic high voltages.

View attachment 3998503

My understanding is that the harness is from the ‘89 FJ62 but it’s possible that some of the HJ61 bits made the move too. I will have a look tomorrow to see if I happen to have that connector that might require some rework. Thank you!

 

[PBcuiser]

Just came up against this!

I have a FJ62 cowling that I have tried flipping but it indeed collides with the outlet fittings from the integrated transmission fluid cooling circuit. It also seems like it might rub up against radiator hose.

Do you have any pictures of where you cut? Does the truck stay cool under heavy load?

Cheers!

I can find some pics, I cut the shroud in half pretty much and am just using the “bottom” half flipped over on the top. I could fit up the lower section but it’s a little more fiddly.

I’ve had no overheating issues and have pushed the rig pretty hard in all sorts of weather

 

[seatosummit]

Hey All -

Good progress this last week!

I used the dry ice technique recommend by @BrickRunner to remove all of the sound deadening material. It worked remarkably well. Honestly one of the most fun parts of the project yet. The sound of the material cracking as it separates from the metal below is pretty satisfying.

I thereafter added new sound deadening material throughout and am then finally added the carpet kit on top of all of that!

 

[seatosummit]

I got plates and insurance so she is back to being road legal. First stop was the car wash for first bath in 10 years!

I finally figured out why the alternator was outputting 16V...turns out it is a 24V unit. The label was not obvious, but I ultimately got my phone down in there to snap a photo...guess I am in the market for a 12V alternator that has the same plug pinout and same mount to the engine block. I suspect the 3FE alternator plays nicely with this harness as that was what was in the body, prior but I am unclear as to physical mounting considerations.

I also need to mount the front output/prop shaft. Looks like it is a fine pitch M10 stud off the x-fer case. Can anyone confirm. Toyota PN 90179 11005 but no reason to pay OEM prices for a fastener, if I can figure out the pitch. I have some speciality parts for the yolk on the x-fer case low range shifter in route as those were not included. I am still figuring out both the electrical and vacuum considerations for the 4WD solenoids. I've never had a truck that was vacuum actuated.

Wired up the indicator lights in the ARB bar to the factory turn signals which was of course very straight forward.

That's all for now!

Cheers,
Austin

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

90179-11005 is M11x1.25. Not M10.

 

[seatosummit]

Not the best pic but you can see fuel filter in upper right and vac reservoir in lower left. Pic is taken from driver side fender. Happy to provide more info as you get further along!View attachment 3950754

Hey @PBcuiser where did you route your fuel line, post fuel filter? I’ve been struggling to find a good route that doesn’t go above the filter itself and thus introduce the possibility of air retention.

 

[PBcuiser]

Hey @PBcuiser where did you route your fuel line, post fuel filter? I’ve been struggling to find a good route that doesn’t go above the filter itself and thus introduce the possibility of air retention.

You can kinda see here but I have the outlet take a 90* bend down out of the filter and then runs around the back of the motor at about the level of the bottom of the head. There are some free fastener locations that I used for hose clamps for the hose. Where the hose runs close to the exhaust I wrapped it in metallized fiberglass tape.

 

[seatosummit]

You can kinda see here but I have the outlet take a 90* bend down out of the filter and then runs around the back of the motor at about the level of the bottom of the head. There are some free fastener locations that I used for hose clamps for the hose. Where the hose runs close to the exhaust I wrapped it in metallized fiberglass tape.

View attachment 4040228

Thanks @PBcuiser, so you ran it horizontally along the firewall, but you managed to situate it lower than the air bleed screw on the filter housing? I will take a look at my engine bay and try to figure out what that would entail.

I've been chasing a white smoke issue. I alleviate it partially by running a dedicated return line all the way to the tank (the PO seems to have routed it the fuel filter location, which was reintroducing aerated fuel into the filter) but the issue still remains.

Running several cans of Diesel Purge certainly helped also, particularly letting it sit in the injectors for a few days while we were in the hospital while my son was born, but I'm definitely still dealing with an incomplete combustion issue.

After trying the cheap options, I think I have to get serious about swapping out the injectors. Watching YouTube videos, it seems like the two stage injectors that the 1HD-T uses are a little more complicated to rebuild, which has be second guessing using Injectors Direct in SLO who I have used in the past, as they these might be extra foreign to them. Aussie options look to be about $200/piece which is a little painful.

 

[seatosummit]

Hey All-

Been awhile since I've written an update, apologies about that!

Life has been extra busy in the last couple months as we recently welcomed our first child.

My time with the truck has been slightly abbreviated, but I am still finding little pockets to slowly chip away at the niggling issues as I am getting some miles on it.

Couple items I've tackled:

• Installed TorFab LED headlights. Perfect timing with the time change!
• Installed the propshaft for the front diff after find the proper fasteners from Partsouq
• Realized my 4WD solenoid is broken and needs to be replaced. Having trouble finding a reasonably priced replacement.
• Had a semi-gnarly incident in which the tie rod end disconnected from the steering knuckle arm as the castle nut was A) inadequately torqued; B) missing the retaining cotter pin. My guess is that it was hastily reassembled by the shop that did the body swap as the swap entailed going from my RHD to LHD. Fortunately, I was going about 5 mph the effects were not as dramatic as they could have been. I've since gone through the whole steering system and torqued/replaced cotter pins on all components.
• Swapped fuel filters as the Racor PN that had been using was apparently for a gasoline fuel system.
• Ran a dedicated return fuel line from the injector pump back to the filler neck overflow inlet to reduce the aeration issue described in the post above.

Things I am still working on:

• Identify affordable injectors
• Find affordable steel wheels that fit without spacers
• Tackle rust mitigation in the gutters before winter
• Figure out approach to widen the gasoline (FJ62) filler neck inlet to accommodate a diesel nozzle. I was hoping to find some way to do this without removing the neck entirely but I can't seem to find a very good method that would avoid spraying metal flakes everywhere

In general I have really been enjoying driving the truck! The 1HD-T is such an awesome engine and it really moves the truck along nicely.

Cheers,
Austin

 

[bhsdriller]

Looking good. What carpet kit did you go with?

 

[seatosummit]

Looking good. What carpet kit did you go with?

Thanks, ya, I am happy with the progress!

The carpet kit is from Custom Auto Carpet, here are the details:

24158-260-1519000000 1988-1990 Toyota Land Cruiser Complete, 630 Slate Gray Nylon

Happy with the fit and the price. I think it was like $400 delivered. It required a bit of chopping to get it to fit perfectly, particularly around the transmission tunnel, but it has relaxed into place pretty well.

 

[seatosummit]

Hey Everyone -

Planning to post an update soon.

I've been in the process of installing the various sending units for the JRP/Defi 14 in 1 dash so I can get numbers on EGT / boost and better numbers on Oil pressure and coolant temp.

I pulled the exhaust manifold / turbo and tapped a new 1/8 NPT hole for the EGT probe. I have done it before on my other 1HD-T so no drama there, just a PITA that you have to pull the turbo, too.

I have new injectors that I plan to install soon, but first wanted to get some baseline numbers to see what changes the injectors make. I've never wanted for power, but the white/gray smoke is driving me a little nuts.

Does anyone have experience with the SAS sandwich plate that exposes 1/8NPT holes for sending units? e.g. here

Looks like it is the option of choice, but don't love having to wait for it to come from AUS.

I also want to figure out to tap into the tach signal coming off the IP and route that to the new dash.



Cheers,
A

 

[seatosummit]

Pulled the trigger on some new shoes.

255/80R17s wrapped on FJ Cruiser wheels with 1.5" SpiderTrax Spacers. Very happy with how they look. The new Nitos are very well behaved on the highway, too. Have not had an opportunity to test them on dirt yet.

Chasing two lingering issues:

1. No start when vehicle is warm. My top theory is that the fuel shut off solenoid has either malfunctioned or is 24VDC and I am of course only supply 12VDC. In this scenario, when rig is cold, 12VDC is adequate to actuate the solenoid. When heat soaked, resistance goes up and 12VDC is not enough to move the internals. If I bang on the solenoid when it is in this state it usually immediate starts following. I have a new solenoid in route.
2. Parasitic power draw. I have a manual isolator switch at the negative post for now, but if I forget to open the circuit it drops to 11VDC over a few days. Saw unexpectedly high draw on the "dome" circuit which feeds the radio, so I pulled the radio and swapped in a more modern one. That solved part of the issue. But there appears to be some residual draw associated with the circuit that feeds the alternator? I am using a FJ80 alternator and adapted the wiring harness to accommodate it. Wondering if the internal diode circuit has failed in the alternator. It is some cheap Chinese thing.

 

[seatosummit]

Follow up on one of the lingering issues above:

The periodic no start when warm condition has been solved!

Turns out the fuel shut off solenoid was indeed 24VDC. I was relieved to see that stamped on the side of the casing when I took the old unit out.

The factory wire was also super brittle and cracked, so I am thinking the combination of high resistance and inadequate voltage fits nicely with the observed behavior of no start when engine warm.

Unfortunately the new unit is pretty crappy. The plunger didn't fit (had to recycle the old one) and it didn't come with an internal spring. I have an OEM one (223906A511) coming my way. Also ordered the little rubber boot (2275117470) that sits atop as that completely disintegrated when I took it off the old unit.

Pretty stoked to having it running well!

Still chasing the parasitic draw, but it is not preventing me from driving the truck and enjoying it.

Cheers,
Austin

 

[seatosummit]

As it starts to get warmer, I am thinking about finding an AC compressor and endeavoring to get the system functional again.

I have condenser and evaporator. I have coolant lines poking through the firewall, what else do I need?

I guess the big question is it better to source a 1HD-T compressor and get it to work with the FJ62 harness / other system components, or better to find a 3FE compressor and figure out how to mount it?

Attaching photo from last summer with coolant lines circled.

 

[BrickRunner]

Four hoses, a dryer and an expansion valve are more components needed for the A/C.

If you are reusing old components, you will need to clean out any remaining R12 PAG oil and also get R134a compatible O-rings and PAG oil.

R12 can be had... ...but I wouldn't recommend it for a vehicle going on long road trips. I had an A/C hose burst in my 4Runner in Arches National Park (in August!) and no-one in Moab wanted to touch it because it was R12. After this debacle I converted to R134a and it cools great, you just need to do some math to get the right amount of refrigerant.

A 3FE compressor is probably going to be easier to source, you just need to make sure you convert/find one that is set up for R134a.

That said, there isn't much to wire on the compressor side. It's one wire for the compressor clutch if you do find a 1HD-T compressor.

 

[seatosummit]

Four hoses, a dryer and an expansion valve are more components needed for the A/C.

If you are reusing old components, you will need to clean out any remaining R12 PAG oil and also get R134a compatible O-rings and PAG oil.

R12 can be had... ...but I wouldn't recommend it for a vehicle going on long road trips. I had an A/C hose burst in my 4Runner in Arches National Park (in August!) and no-one in Moab wanted to touch it because it was R12. After this debacle I converted to R134a and it cools great, you just need to do some math to get the right amount of refrigerant.

A 3FE compressor is probably going to be easier to source, you just need to make sure you convert/find one that is set up for R134a.

That said, there isn't much to wire on the compressor side. It's one wire for the compressor clutch if you do find a 1HD-T compressor.

Awesome - thanks for all of the intel.

Going to start collecting parts and see if I can get something implemented before summer arrives.

Cheers

 

[seatosummit]

I bought a 1HD-T compressor used on Ebay, as well as an idler pulley.

Imagine I will have the AC shop source the drier, unless that is somehow special for the FJ62. Hoping it is not.

Meanwhile, I order a knuckle rebuild kit, new brake rotors and pads and new TREs. All from CruiserTeq. Now I need to find a free weekend to get covered in grease and gear oil.

The truck has been running really well. Fortunately, it happens to be really effective at helping our 6 month get to sleep, so in a surprising twist it has become my wife's favorite vehicle!

Oh, the parasitic draw thing was alternator mis-wiring, by the way. I went a little nuts and added a Victron Smart Shunt to meticulously track the draw and ultimately determined it went away when I unplugged the alternator connector.

I also deconstructed doors and window switches to get all of the windows working properly.

I have the power unlock function working, but not power lock. Assuming it is a relay issue as the switch tests fine. Unfortunately I have not been able to track down relay location.

Also looking to replace the auto gear shifter bushing as it is all of the shop. Vague shifts and requires going into "3RD" to go into drive and therefore reverse lights also don't work when in reverse.

I know there are threads on here about how to fix that up. It seems like some folks have been ambitious with CNC-ing brass bushings, which I don't really have capacity to tackle. Mostly just looking to find a kit.

Cheers all and happy summer time!!

Austin