HDJ62

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Thanks @PBcuiser - I am just going to fab something for the radiator brackets. I am also going to copy your Racor fuel filter mount location.

I have it plumbed in place temporarily.

OK, so odd development: there is no return fuel line going back to the tank. There is only a single metallic line running along the frame rail that was (loosely) coupled to the fitting on the fuel tank. I think the tank is original (HJ61 NZ spec) and now strapped to the FJ62 body. The frame is original HJ61 but it literally only has the one line. For immediate purposes, I've routed the fuel return to the filter, but that seems ill advised based on what I've read.

I am confident that the tank has a provision for a return inlet. Question is, can I run 5/16 rubber all the way back to the tank from the return hose on the IP? or do I have to find a metallic line for the frame rail? Presumably those lines are metallic just for resiliency sake?
 
No problem technically to run a rubber hose, other than keeping it in place and secured without chafing.

Just make sure the tank is still able to breathe. There should be a separator in the right hand rear quarter, behind the trim board which takes five breather hoses from a number of places on the tank. The thickest is for the return on the filler neck, the other four should eventually be vented from the top of the separator, via a one way valve, to a hard line on the underside of the body which terminates inside a cross member of the body.
 
Eurasiaoverland said:
No problem technically to run a rubber hose, other than keeping it in place and secured without chafing.

Just make sure the tank is still able to breathe. There should be a separator in the right hand rear quarter, behind the trim board which takes five breather hoses from a number of places on the tank. The thickest is for the return on the filler neck, the other four should eventually be vented from the top of the separator, via a one way valve, to a hard line on the underside of the body which terminates inside a cross member of the body.
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Thanks - all of the vent lines are connected. I can upload some photos later on. I am hoping there is a way to get to the return line inlet without dropping the tank, but I have my doubts.

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BrickRunner said:
Howdy neighbor! I remember seeing this one on Craigslist, and was tempted to go look at it. Cool to see it get fixed up!
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Hey @BrickRunner !

Yep, stoked to be resurrecting it. Too cool of a truck to let rot.

Your 60 looks sweet! I will keep an eye out for it when I am in Ojai next.

Cheers!
 
Lots of good progress in the last few weeks, which was temporarily disrupted by some travel. Getting back after it these next few days.

Brake lines are attached between the body and frame and are now bled (including the proportioning valve which escaped by first few attempts :rolleyes:). Running a direct line between the vacuum pump and the brake booster with no vac res, but I have one I intend to install soon.

Fabbed up a little bracket for the fuel filter and got that mounted in a location essentially identical to what @PBcuiser did on his build. Required that I pull the windshield wiper motor, but not too bad, all in all.

Still having trouble with the oil pressure sending unit. I know the gauge works as it pins if I short it to ground. The sender is showing correct reads and is grounded, so I am not sure what the deal is.

Yesterday I installed new heater hoses and clamps bypassed the rear heater core as I had issues with that on my 80s and it just doesn't seem that useful.

Need to fab up some brackets for the transmission oil cooler which is currently zip tied in front of the AC condenser.

I combined an FJ62 lower air box with an HDJ81 "upper air box" which I am describing as the lid that has the outlet pipe that goes to the turbo. The plumbing for the air outlet from the box is fine, but the hose fittings for the PCV hose are not ideal. Need to try to figure out how to connect those. I will attach some photos in cases folks have suggestions.

Radiator is now nicely mounted in place thanks to some brackets I got from @cruiserland (thanks)! I also picked up a fan shroud that I will eventually fit into place.

Also forgot to mention, I took it out for its maiden voyage on the private roads near by and it rips!! The 1HD-T pulls really nicely. Stoked to get this thing fully dialed.

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BrickRunner said:
On my Hj60, my oil pressure gauge issues ended up being melted wires in the dash behind the instrument panel.
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Ah that’s useful, thanks. Definitely planning to investigate a bit deeper before I install a mechanical gauge. I’ve had one of those fail behind the dash on a Mercedes and it made a big ol’ oily mess.
 
I got the front end all put back together and looking proper this evening. I don't have a bumper, but that can come in time.

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I found the proper FJ62 coolant temp sending unit that fits into the 1HD-T block properly (and indeed matches what was in the block previously) though I cannot seem to find the correct place in the wiring harness on the body to connect it to...

This is the closest match I can find, though the channel on the connector is clearly not quite right:

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Any ideas?

Is the after market sending unit (which was $40!!) not correct? I looked back at an old pic of the original sending unit and it seems to have the mirrored channel that would mate with that body harness.

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Cheers,
Austin
 
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seatosummit said:
I found the proper FJ62 coolant temp sending unit that fits into the 1HD-T block properly (and indeed matches what was in the block previously) though I cannot seem to find the correct place in the wiring harness on the body to connect it to...

This is the closest match I can find, though the channel on the connector is clearly not quite right:

View attachment 3989000

Any ideas?

Is the after market sending unit (which was $40!!) not correct? I looked back at an old pic of the original sending unit and it seems to have the mirrored channel that would mate with that body harness.

View attachment 3989001

Cheers,
Austin
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After some further digging it seems that I might be looking at the EFI "sensor". In the case of the 1HD-T I think it sends a signal to the glow plug timer circuit, in the case of the 3FE with EFI it lets the ECU know that the engine is warm.

So, trouble is I seem to only have that hole available in the block. The "sending unit" that actually produces a variable resistance that can be read by the gauge in the dash seems to use a different thread and I don't have a location into which it can slot. I also have not been able to locate the spot on the wiring harness where that would insert? Reading suggests it might be a green cable for an '89 FJ62 body?

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So I was ultimately able to find the coolant temperature sending unit location. Sneaky little bugger is situated behind the oil filter and the copper terminal is pretty dark, so it really blends into the side of the block.

Still no luck in finding the green wire to which the sender should connect. Can someone with an FJ62 with 3FE share a picture of the wiring harness where the green wire originates?

Im pretty convinced it should be on the left hand side of the vehicle based on the photos of 3FEs I’ve seen. I’ve found light blue light that apparently is intended to trigger some manifold cooling mechanism. But that’s obviously not useful in my case.

I pulled the carpet out as it was nasty. Looking for a vinyl replacement. Would love recommendations!

Cheers
 
PBcuiser said:
For the Rad brackets you could fab up something with angle iron and rubber pads or look in classifieds and see if anyone is parting out a truck.

For the cowling, fabbing a custom one might be easier than sourcing an FJ62 one and getting it to fit. Depending on how the engine is sitting in the bay you can KINDA take a stock FJ62 cowling and flip it over but it takes some massaging. I did this and cut my cowling in half and it works but I only running the upper section bc getting the lower section to fit was going to be a PITA.
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Just came up against this!

I have a FJ62 cowling that I have tried flipping but it indeed collides with the outlet fittings from the integrated transmission fluid cooling circuit. It also seems like it might rub up against radiator hose.

Do you have any pictures of where you cut? Does the truck stay cool under heavy load?

Cheers!
 
Installed an Amazon horn kit and find that only the higher pitch horn actually sounds. Seems the concurrent draw of the lower pitch horn might cause a voltage drop that overwhelms the circuit? Not blowing fuses, but it does work if I short the lower horn to the battery. I need to further troubleshoot that at some point.

My carpet kit also arrived. Excited to install that. I had some nice sound deadening material to install first. The factory deadening material is still very stuck to the floor of the vehicle. It would be a massive undertaking to remove all of it before installing the new stuff. Recommendations?

Cheers,
Austin
 
seatosummit said:
Installed an Amazon horn kit and find that only the higher pitch horn actually sounds. Seems the concurrent draw of the lower pitch horn might cause a voltage drop that overwhelms the circuit? Not blowing fuses, but it does work if I short the lower horn to the battery. I need to further troubleshoot that at some point.

My carpet kit also arrived. Excited to install that. I had some nice sound deadening material to install first. The factory deadening material is still very stuck to the floor of the vehicle. It would be a massive undertaking to remove all of it before installing the new stuff. Recommendations?

Cheers,
Austin
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Dry Ice makes quick work of the old sound deadener.
 
Hi All-

Interesting update: I discovered a strange sound originating from the front of the engine only to eventually hear a crack and a pop! Not sounds that are particularly reassuring. After some extensive poking around, I eventually discovered there was a hole in the timing belt cover and noticed the pulley connected to the IP was making contact with the plastic housing. Not good.

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I took off the cover only to discover that the previous owner--in his genius--decide to reattach the pulley with a mere single fastener, rather than the four that it requires! Rather happy I was able to catch it and mend it before the issue grew more catastrophic! The poor remaining fastener was finger tight and hanging on by a thread, so I am very grateful I caught this. I have a new plastic cover/housing and gasket on the way.

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In any case, got it all back together and took it for a spin now that I have proper coolant temp on the dash. Stoked to take some laps around the neighborhood with 'er!

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I'm noticed an unacceptably high voltage on the alternator circuit (~16V) so I need to figure out what the deal is with that. The alternator connector just slotted into the alternator, so I assumed there was not anything else that needed to be done for voltage regulation. Perhaps that was an incorrect assumption. I have it disconnected for now so I don't overcharge the battery.

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