Harrop E-Locker Switch (1 Viewer)

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BGarcia88FJ62

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Dumb question but I just want to be sure I don’t muck this up. So the fused power wire to the switch is marked ignition. There’s no ignition fuse so my best guess is the engine fuse. Am I correct?
CA5D3B2E-4BE8-4B4B-9520-7C7F9AFA45D1.jpeg
 
You have 2 choices.

Either run it to constant power so that your locker stays engaged when the key is off, which means you will have to make sure the locker is off when you park the truck so you don’t kill your battery

Or

You can use anything that gets switched power so that it will turn on and off with the key. I would use the cig lighter circuit so if the locker does cause the fuse to pop it won’t kill the ignition (like w the engine fuse)

Mine is run off of the radio circuit on the 4Runner.
 
You have 2 choices.

Either run it to constant power so that your locker stays engaged when the key is off, which means you will have to make sure the locker is off when you park the truck so you don’t kill your battery

Or

You can use anything that gets switched power so that it will turn on and off with the key. I would use the cig lighter circuit so if the locker does cause the fuse to pop it won’t kill the ignition (like w the engine fuse)

Mine is run off of the radio circuit on the 4Runner.
Only thing about the Cig circuit it’s a 15a fuse the switch power for the locker is 10a
Plus I use the cig as a USB charge port . Will that affect the USB? Thanks.
 
If you want this really clean, remove the fuse box from the lower dash (just the side bolts not all the wiring) pull it forward and see if you could wire power from the main power wire to any of those blank fuse locations. Make sure you disconnect the battery after you determine which wire is the main hot wire and before you get working on this. I'd be using an 18g wire with appropriate end terminals. Then put a 10a fuse in it and run the wiring from back of the fuse to the switch. You prob need connectors similar to the metal connectors that go in all of the toyota plugs. They have a metal tab that clicks into place when put into the fuse box. I'd check with ToyotaMatt as he is probably familiar with working on the fuse box. Hopefully someone can post up an image of the backside of the fuse panel and how they did this.

Then you can write "E-locker" on your fuse panel decal in the blank location. Cool right?!!
 
If you want this really clean, remove the fuse box from the lower dash (just the side bolts not all the wiring) pull it forward and see if you could wire power from the main power wire to any of those blank fuse locations. Make sure you disconnect the battery after you determine which wire is the main hot wire and before you get working on this. I'd be using an 18g wire with appropriate end terminals. Then put a 10a fuse in it and run the wiring from back of the fuse to the switch. You prob need connectors similar to the metal connectors that go in all of the toyota plugs. They have a metal tab that clicks into place when put into the fuse box. I'd check with ToyotaMatt as he is probably familiar with working on the fuse box. Hopefully someone can post up an image of the backside of the fuse panel and how they did this.

Then you can write "E-locker" on your fuse panel decal in the blank location. Cool right?!!
That's a fine suggestion but probably way out of my pay grade. I can spin wrenches all day but automotive electrical stuff is my kryptonite!:)
I'll have a look at my FSM's and see if I can't figure something out. If I get scared off I've got a friend who can bail me out.
:beer: ✌️
 
You can always run a wire from the positive of the battery post through the firewall on either side ...just look where the factory harness goes through a boot in the firewall. then run it to the switch location. Ground it to the ground at either end of the lower dash ...you'll see a big white with black stripe wire going to a 10mm bolt head.

Down and dirty. Use and inline 10a fuse on the hot side. Downside here is that it would be hot always and not switched through the ignition.
 

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