H55F Transmission Support Brackets

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What crossmember should be used with the 3F bell housing? I am not able to separate the 2F bell housing from the F155 so I bought another bell housing. Or can I just lower the right bracket to match the angle?
 
I have a crossmeber shipping and found a good price for an isolator.
 
The shift knob has different thread pitch also from the 4 speed.
 
POPO AGIE said:
I have a crossmeber shipping and found a good price for an isolator.
Click to expand...


What crossmember are you using? Does it allow for the rotation or is that in the isolator? I have a 60 series 4/85-7/87 crossmember just in case I get around to installing a H55F in my FJ62? It's in another location but don't remember if it angle just that the isolator area is flat versus a cradle like the 40 series.


The 3F bellhousing is rarer the the earlier four speed. Probably made a trade for the correct one.

POPO AGIE said:
The shift knob has different thread pitch also from the 4 speed.
Click to expand...


Knob is the same as the one used on 60 series. It used a different tab on the end with a silvershift pattern verus black.
 
The correct knob used on the H55F in the 40 series.
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Living in the Past said:
What crossmember are you using? Does it allow for the rotation or is that in the isolator? I have a 60 series 4/85-7/87 crossmember just in case I get around to installing a H55F in my FJ62? It's in another location but don't remember if it angle just that the isolator area is flat versus a cradle like the 40 series.


The 3F bellhousing is rarer the the earlier four speed. Probably made a trade for the correct one.




Knob is the same as the one used on 60 series. It used a different tab on the end with a silvershift pattern verus black.
Click to expand...

The crossmember is from BTB. I should be able to set the rotation once the transmission is bolted up to the bell housing before welding the brackets in place.

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I have a 2F bell housing, but it is attached to a seized 155F so I can't remove the clutch or remove the internal bolts of the bell housing to the block.
So I ordered a 3F and had it blasted and powder coated.

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Did you remove the all the rod and main bearing cap and try to move the crankshaft?

My fear with the corner brackets is the further from center the move is has to move up or down. These are also made to be level to the opposite side. Isolator is the only rubber piece. Crossmember to brackets is solid and suppse the be on the same plane not different angles. Still would look into trading for an earlier bellhousing. Also the 3F bellhousing and 8/80+ bellhousings did not use the motor mounts like earlier years. They used a bracket to mount the clutch slave cylinder on the right side. Would look into getting that bracket if you haven't already.
 
I am not using the 155F engine so no I was not unbolting the bearing caps it is being replaced with a Cummins R2.8. Right now I have it cribbed under the oil pan anyway because I was trying to get the bell housing off. I may have to remove the oil pan and unbolt the main and rod caps.

I see there is a boss for the slave cylinder and your right, there is no provision for using the mounts that the 2F has and I was going to use the two mounts for the datum to set everything forward and aft and transversely so that complicated things a bit. I am already into this bell housing for a bit of coin. Or I have the 3F machined for the rear motor mounts like a 2F bell housing or come up with another way to set the datum points without them. If I can loosen the bearing caps and get the crank to turn I could get the clutch out and use the 2F to mock up the location of the crossmember then use the 3F with the R2.8. I have plenty of time to get this figured out.

I read on other posts that the 2F motor mounts were not needed with the crossmember under the H55F.
 
POPO AGIE said:
The crossmember is from BTB. I should be able to set the rotation once the transmission is bolted up to the bell housing before welding the brackets in place.

View attachment 3130904

I have a 2F bell housing, but it is attached to a seized 155F so I can't remove the clutch or remove the internal bolts of the bell housing to the block.
So I ordered a 3F and had it blasted and powder coated.

View attachment 3130909
Click to expand...


did you get the fork to go along with the bellhousing? it is slightly longer than the earlier fork
how about the bottom cover? it has a different shape than the earlier cover

you could remove the center of the clutch with a torch, access the flywheel bolts remove then have access to the bellhousing.
I would probably stick with the older bellhousing in a 40, but that is me.
 
POPO AGIE said:
I am not using the 155F engine so no I was not unbolting the bearing caps it is being replaced with a Cummins R2.8. Right now I have it cribbed under the oil pan anyway because I was trying to get the bell housing off. I may have to remove the oil pan and unbolt the main and rod caps.

I see there is a boss for the slave cylinder and your right, there is no provision for using the mounts that the 2F has and I was going to use the two mounts for the datum to set everything forward and aft and transversely so that complicated things a bit. I am already into this bell housing for a bit of coin. Or I have the 3F machined for the rear motor mounts like a 2F bell housing or come up with another way to set the datum points without them. If I can loosen the bearing caps and get the crank to turn I could get the clutch out and use the 2F to mock up the location of the crossmember then use the 3F with the R2.8. I have plenty of time to get this figured out.

I read on other posts that the 2F motor mounts were not needed with the crossmember under the H55F.
Click to expand...


You don't need the rear motor mounts on the bellhousing but the clutch slave cylinder used a motor mount. Different bracket was used 8/80+ to mount the slave cylinder. Threads on the 3F and8/80+ bellhousing are smaller and used too mount that bracket. Need the bracket for slave cylinder since motor mounts are gone.

I do not know anything about a diesel conversions. Thought the bellhousing was were the adapter was between the engine and transmission when using a non Toyota engine and a Toyota transmission? Add an adapter and then dealing with a too short imput shaft on the transmission.

Figured your weren't going to use the F155. Loosen all that bearing on the crankshaft might be able to rotate it enough to get to all the bolt on the pressure plate. That would allow you to remove the flywheel. With the flywheel wheel out could unbolt the bellhousing from the engine. Could possible just the crankshaft, flywheel and pressure plate out the bottom. Never had to try it. I know I would have pulled the bellhousing off the engine
 
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I will research the mount for the slave cylinder and be able to work that out. I did see the boss where the slave cylinder attach.

The adapter I plan to use goes between the Toyota bell housing and the bloc of the R2.8 and has a hub that the 2F flywheel bolts too. That way the input shaft of the H55F will engage the Toyota pilot bearing. The Cummins flywheel is de-massed and is driven by the Cummins starter since the Toyota starter is not used.

I am going to get the oil pan off and loosen the cap bolts and see if I can get the crank to turn and if it works I can get the clutch disassembled and remove the flywheel and get it out and resurfaced and be able to use in the conversion. My original plan was to use the 2F bell housing and the 2F flywheel but the motor was seized because it had not been turned since 1991.

I called a guy that has a shop and has done a lot of conversion work and building cars and trucks. We talked on the phone these evening and have come up with a plan to be able to use the 2F bell housing to set the datum points so that I get the motor mounts right for the block and then use the 3F bell housing for the final build. Since the R2.8 is shorter I want to take advantage of the room in front of the block for the cooling package.

This has been a journey and keep finding things out I did not know did not expect. But eventually it will be finished and will enjoy the accomplishment.
 
3_puppies said:
did you get the fork to go along with the bellhousing? it is slightly longer than the earlier fork
how about the bottom cover? it has a different shape than the earlier cover

you could remove the center of the clutch with a torch, access the flywheel bolts remove then have access to the bellhousing.
I would probably stick with the older bellhousing in a 40, but that is me.
Click to expand...
I did not know there was a different fork so that is something else I need to research and find. Will check the bottom cover if mine does not fit. I was not planing on changing the bell housing. The motor is sized so I needed a back up plan. I will loosen the cap bolts on the crank and rod bearings to see if I can get the crank to turn and continue removing the clutch and unbolt the bell housing.

I don't have a torch and the Wife is very nervous that I weld and grind in the pole barn.

I have tried to research everything about installing the H55F in a FJ40 and there is not really much information and feel like I am on my own a lot. Then hear about things after I have made a decision to take a different path.
 
I did some searching today and can get, a clutch fork, the bracket for the slave cylinder spring and the inspection cover for a 3F bell housing.
 
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