GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread

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4 weeks with AT205 and we drive it consistently on a cold start in drive with NO CODES! It used to be like clockwork in the first 5 minutes between 3-4 gear on triggering the code. Shifts buttery smooth. Still waiting on a Colorado winter cold to test how it does. That’ll be the real test.

So far I’d say it’s helpful to get the proper level and then dump in a whole bottle of this stuff. Prior to AT205, we did one drain and fill where the level was overfilled by 16-20 ounces and that was one of the only times we didn’t get codes for 2 weeks. BUT it did come back. So slightly overfilled with AT205 for the win.
 
Shoot! Looks like I can no longer edit the original first post on this thread 😞. I was going to update it with adding AT205 to the list of items for viewers to try vs. having them read through 49 pages and 3 years of material.

Any idea if an admin or someone can unlock it for editing?
 
Shoot! Looks like I can no longer edit the original first post on this thread 😞. I was going to update it with adding AT205 to the list of items for viewers to try vs. having them read through 49 pages and 3 years of material.

Any idea if an admin or someone can unlock it for editing?
Yea I'd just message an admin
 
Just had my transmission serviced for our upcoming overlanding/road trip in the high country. My trans guy said that my fluids did need changing and being at the low 200° F temps is nothing to worry about. He ALWAYS uses the factory oils, saying they're expensive, but they are the best. This is a guy who owns several Toyota products himself and is strictly a transmission shop.
So, I'll go with what he says... 😁
 
Just had my transmission serviced for our upcoming overlanding/road trip in the high country. My trans guy said that my fluids did need changing and being at the low 200° F temps is nothing to worry about. He ALWAYS uses the factory oils, saying they're expensive, but they are the best. This is a guy who owns several Toyota products himself and is strictly a transmission shop.
So, I'll go with what he says... 😁
What is he calling “low 200’s”?
 
Just had my transmission serviced for our upcoming overlanding/road trip in the high country. My trans guy said that my fluids did need changing and being at the low 200° F temps is nothing to worry about. He ALWAYS uses the factory oils, saying they're expensive, but they are the best. This is a guy who owns several Toyota products himself and is strictly a transmission shop.
So, I'll go with what he says... 😁
Lower trans temps = longer life, low 200s is too hot for a bulk temp. If you care about longevity at least.

"Lower bulk fluid temperature TB, means lower surface temps, longer transmission life."

There are only positives with running your transmission bulk temp at 160-180F which is typical with a Hayden 678 and pinned thermostat. Running it 200+ is not good for longevity.

Screenshot_20260904_123819_Firefox.webp


Screenshot_20260904_124434_Gallery.webp
 
Just had my transmission serviced for our upcoming overlanding/road trip in the high country. My trans guy said that my fluids did need changing and being at the low 200° F temps is nothing to worry about. He ALWAYS uses the factory oils, saying they're expensive, but they are the best. This is a guy who owns several Toyota products himself and is strictly a transmission shop.
So, I'll go with what he says...
😁

If optimizing transmission longevity is the priority, he's just wrong.
The bold is an appeal to authority fallacy to a tee.
 
At or below 230°F. He say's that GX's just run warmer.
If I can’t get mine to run consistently below 200, maybe 215 on very long drives, I’m going to buy one of Landtanks modified fan clutches and plan on an annual 6 qt fluid change using Idemitsu synthetic. The hotter it runs, the better the fluid you need to prevent damage.

Bad news. 100 miles in with AT205. DTCs back. Not the end of the world. But shift problems back too. After hitting low 230’s on the way back k from the airport, sat in school pick up line for 20 minutes, would not shift 3-4 without clearing codes.

Even with a rebuild, this unit is gone. Prob a TC problem. It’s the only thing not changed. Planning for a new transmission purchase next year.
 
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What is he calling “low 200’s”?

At or below 230°F. He say's that GX's just run warmer.

Is this the same transmission guy who told you that "anything under 300°F is fine, very normal and not to worry about it"?

And that aftermarket transmission coolers mess with the factory cooling system and don't really help?

Just spoke with Ed (owner) from Crown Valley Transmissions that has a 5 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ with 40 reviews. Note, that's not 4.5 or 4.7 stars, but a full 5 stars! To say I trust him is an understatement.
While talking with him, I told him how I'm active on a GX forum and that there's been a lot of discussion about transmissions, temperatures and aftermarket coolers. I mentioned how often we, here on MUD talk about transmission temps over 220° F and how it seems like everyone wants to keep their temps under 200°F with trans coolers and all.
He told me that anything under 300°F is fine, very normal and not to worry about it. If your trans temps start reaching 300°F then start to worry, and pull over. I told him that a bunch of guys on the GX forum have added aftermarket transmission coolers and his reply was, it messes with the factory cooling system and doesn't really help.
He also said my GX already has additional cooling that's available for the GX's. Not sure if that's because I have a premium or not, but my guess would be that it is and that mine came with a receiver hitch.
 
Is this the same transmission guy who told you that "anything under 300°F is fine, very normal and not to worry about it"?

And that aftermarket transmission coolers mess with the factory cooling system and don't really help?
Mine came with a receiver hitch. No additional cooling systems. Inadequate cooling. If I start seeing anything above 275, I’d have it towed.
 
I'm going to do a drain & fill this week, I'll be around 1250 miles with the AT-205. Then I'll do another one around 3000 miles later (assuming it gets that far) when I'm doing an oil change and installing the factory transmission cooler.

I think one of the reasons Toyota/Lexus only does those full replacements, is they know what's cooked is one or more rubber seals deep inside the transmission, and even rebuilding it as best one can is not going to be successful a good percentage of the time. They take in old cores, pull all the guts out of the cases, and put new guts inside the cases.

I'm just trying to get mine to last until I can get it back to the mainland, where I can source a low-mileage unit from a salvage yard. I think getting one with <80k miles and stashing it for the eventual failure is the play.
 
If I get hit with AT failure in future...I'm going straight to a Lexus rebuild (all new internal components/rebuilt external case) & someone to R&R. Preferably on a 15-20% parts deal as that could take it below $3k for the parts ...+ labor TBD.

I'm not messing around with any salvage yard units either.

PN: 35010-35B70-84
 
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If I get hit with AT failure in future...I'm going straight to a Lexus rebuild (all new internal components/rebuilt external case) & someone to R&R. Preferably on a 15-20% parts deal as that could take it below $3k for the parts ...+ labor TBD.

I'm not messing around with any salvage yard units either.

PN: 35010-35B70-84
I went and checked that link...I might just buy that thing from them prophylactically. My local Lexus shop here on Oahu prices that thing at $7500, PLUS the core charge, and they say there is no estimated time of delivery for it (backorder). Hell, the only local salvage yard is charging $3500 for a used one out of an 88k mile truck. That site shows the transmission, WITH the core charge and shipping to Hawaii at $4400...a bargain!
 
For the people that are using the bottle of AT205. Did you drain a bottle amount of ATF first and then the AT205. Or just add a bottle of AT205 in addition to the normal amount of transmission fluid. Thanks!
 
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