^ currently debating between regearing to 4.56 along with the ARBs and onboard air or Harrop e-lockers.
GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread
- Thread starter Roody
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Acrad
GOLD Star
...yeah.. still haven't gotten my pristine "2021" Harrop/Eaton installed... wired/switch..it's all there.. just need to have someone finish itI need to recheck after all these years and see who has high marks for the work in the area I am in
I already had an ARB twin for airing tires, but still went with Harrops. They instantly engage/disengage with no noise. Your climate is likely as humid as mine, and running lockers off the ARB would end up putting quite a bit of water into the air lines and the lockers themselves (which may then freeze when snow wheeling). Water sometimes drips out of the air chuck when I'm inflating tires, and my shop compressor gets a ton of water in the tank.
I've also heard of exactly 0 failures of Harrops despite them having been on the US market for over a decade.
Conventional wisdom is that the ARB air lockers are more robust than the e-lockers, but also more problematic to operate.
And I would agree. I have had ARB air locker on previous rigs. They worked more often than not, but keeping the air system working properly was a challenge at times. And a couple of times I had to pull diff third members to replace seals in the lockers, which was a lot of work especially for the front diffs. The e-locker in my GX has been trouble free, and I would go with it again if given the choice.
And I would agree. I have had ARB air locker on previous rigs. They worked more often than not, but keeping the air system working properly was a challenge at times. And a couple of times I had to pull diff third members to replace seals in the lockers, which was a lot of work especially for the front diffs. The e-locker in my GX has been trouble free, and I would go with it again if given the choice.
What turned me was a YouTube channel I used to watch (FabRats - before I quit watching YouTube due to it being a time sink
). He had an ARB Air Locker in a 14 bolt where the air line and seals kept getting nicked. I think he pulled it out 2-3 times to repair before finally switching to a Harrop.I would say that it's still possible to damage the external wiring on a Harrop, however I carry spare wire, strippers/crimpers, and connectors in the tool kit in my rig, and so it would not be hard to perform a trail repair on ripped/torn wiring.
My Harrop got tested good this winter - this was after about 1/3 mile of 3,000+ rpm wheel spin getting up a steep hill in nearly a foot of snow, with the rear locked the whole time (I tried F and R locked, but the rig almost slid sideways off the hill). Although it's possible something may have broke if I had suddenly caught traction, but if it had, the 3rd member is still under warranty. I'll be testing it more in the rocks on a trip to CO later this summer, and will eat crow if I do break something
.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
My new arb brushless is mint. But even the connectors they use broke. I dont think i will buy another ARB product for a long time.What turned me was a YouTube channel I used to watch (FabRats - before I quit watching YouTube due to it being a time sink
I would say that it's still possible to damage the external wiring on a Harrop, however I carry spare wire, strippers/crimpers, and connectors in the tool kit in my rig, and so it would not be hard to perform a trail repair on ripped/torn wiring.
My Harrop got tested good this winter - this was after about 1/3 mile of 3,000+ rpm wheel spin getting up a steep hill in nearly a foot of snow, with the rear locked the whole time (I tried F and R locked, but the rig almost slid sideways off the hill). Although it's possible something may have broke if I had suddenly caught traction, but if it had, the 3rd member is still under warranty. I'll be testing it more in the rocks on a trip to CO later this summer, and will eat crow if I do break something
View attachment 4163607
I was cleaning my rig after last week's adventure, and it looks like I've picked up some more trail rash. Luckily, it's in the exact same place as the existing trail rash on the lower edge of the back bumper. If I did a modest bumper trim, I could remove all the damage and never have it happen there again.
Here's the funny part though, I'm looking through my photos and can pretty much nail down when it happened. There's a decent chance it was the same obstacle the scraped my bumper the first time, about five years ago. I don't know if that's a curse, blood feud, or just bad luck.
Here's the funny part though, I'm looking through my photos and can pretty much nail down when it happened. There's a decent chance it was the same obstacle the scraped my bumper the first time, about five years ago. I don't know if that's a curse, blood feud, or just bad luck.
Has anyone run into issues when running a factory GX550 wheel on a 460? Just had a 3 inch Ironman lift installed today. Running 550 Overtrail wheels with a 285/75/18 Toyo RT Pro. Using the 1.25 spidertrax hub centric spacer as well. Spacer bolts up but the ring of the spacer is bigger than the bore on the factory wheel. I thought hub centric was the way to go, but I’m guessing I’m wrong. Do I have the bore on the wheel milled to fit? Do I have the lip on the adapter milled off? Do I use a “non” hub centric adapter? The lip in question is circled.
How much does that raised boss interfere with the wheel? If it's close, perhaps you can have a machine shop put them on a lathe and turn them down a wee bit. But other than that, yeah, you may have to machine that boss off with a mill.
Curious, with those spacers, do your tires poke out past the fenders?
I'd suggest offloading the GX550 wheels (and spacers if you can) and getting a set of aftermarket wheels that will bolt on to your GX460. Zero-offset wheels would probably avoid the need for spacers.
Turning down the spacer and/or the wheel hub could affect the strength of either one of them, and a wheel or spacer failure could be catastrophic.
Turning down the spacer and/or the wheel hub could affect the strength of either one of them, and a wheel or spacer failure could be catastrophic.
You need a 106.1mm to 95.1mm center bore converter. Spacers are fine to run as long as you maintain them - which means taking off the wheel to check the torque of the spacer when you do maintenance AND the torque of the wheel. The newer 6x139.7 Toyotas also have a larger stud, M14 vs M12. So make sure you account for that.
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Acrad
GOLD Star
Speaking of which anyone know the part numbers for either 460 Blackline tail lights or 460 sport (all red) taillights?
Acrad
GOLD Star
I think these are the Blackline PNs
PN: 81560-WY030 / Tail Light - Left
PN: 81550-WY040 / Tail Light - Right
PN: 81560-WY030 / Tail Light - Left
PN: 81550-WY040 / Tail Light - Right
saw a 2000s Toyota Truck break the LBJ in the middle of an intersection yesterday. I've seen the pictures of 3rd gen 4runners break the LBJ and makes it seem like they have extreme camber and it looked exactly like that. the guy was able to drive and pull off the main traffic. I was secretly hoping I could use my winch though.
check or replace your lbj if you have this generation of vehicle.
check or replace your lbj if you have this generation of vehicle.
I went with black line very pleased. And the black line logo emblem for the rear. Somewhere on here I have the part numbers for the black line. Id do it again depends on your vehicle color of course
Sorry for the delay just got home after 3 days in Wi. for the Midwest Side by Side Classic shoot. Cell phone reception was spotty at best and when on WiFi couldn't find my previous post and didn't have my parts document available. The cost wasn't bad on sale I got mine through Treasure Coast Lexus, they are slightly cheaper than Bell when the sales are on. With that said I just drove in rain on the way back home and first thing I did was order replacement blades from Bell, old habits are hard to break. Difference isn't that much, looks like TC saves around $13.43.
The lights don't include bulbs so you will have to move your old ones over, or I took the opportunity to replace with new ones. The base on the new ones are slightly different then my 19 but it is a plastic slip on piece and only takes a few seconds to change over if you need to. One of the easiest mods I've ever done.
Part #: 81561-60C60 - LENS & BODY, REAR COMBINATION LAMP, LEFT Bell $263.90 Treasure Coast $257.47
Part #: 81551-60C60 - LENS & BODY, REAR COMBINATION LAMP, RIGHT Bell $279.68 Treasure Coast $272.86
Rear Black Line gel emblem part number 9097502235 Treasure Coast $90.09
Between 3 nights at a hotel, gas towing the Polaris, food, ~1K 12, 16, 20 and 28 ga. shotgun shells, and entry fees that I just spent the cost especially on sale is not that bad IMO. Especially every time when I see the improved look when I walk out to get in it to go some place. Driving on a trip like I just did it still hits me often while driving how much I really like the GX over any other vehicle that I have ever owned.