GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread

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Wife gave me the ok to get lockers for my birthday so I will be going the e-locker route and probably regear to 4.56 while I'm at it.
This may be the first aftermarket thing I pay someone to install since its not expensive enough already but not sure how I feel about setting all the timing/spacing/gear lash stuff myself.
I got mine from ECGS as assembled 3rd members. The actually install of the 3rd members isn't too bad (both are doable in a weekend and require nothing other than normal wrenching tools). You will be very, very happy with how the rig drives and accelerates with 4.56 gears.

I thought about DIYing the gear setup too, but came to the same conclusion. Too complicated and too many expensive things that can go wrong for something that I'd do once. Better to pay a professional and have a warranty for it. My rear 3rd did develop a gear whine after a few months and ECGS rebuilt it for free and even paid round-trip shipping.
 
Wife gave me the ok to get lockers for my birthday so I will be going the e-locker route and probably regear to 4.56 while I'm at it.
This may be the first aftermarket thing I pay someone to install since its not expensive enough already but not sure how I feel about setting all the timing/spacing/gear lash stuff myself.
 

I haven't noticed any direction change issues. On the few times I've needed mine, they engage readily, and disengage after less than a single wheel revolution. That includes when I got hung up on a rock with numerous D to R direction changes until I got off - if the lockers were unlocking for a split second, it was not noticeable. But, I only very infrequently need the lockers. I have a trip to CO planned later this year with some actual rock crawling that will certainly put them to the test a bit more.

I would have gone ARBs were it not for the frequent reports for air leaks. They are cheaper and I already have an ARB twin compressor onboard.
 
I watched Tinkerer's locker video yesterday and as usual it is excellent nerding material.
I still think the Eaton or similar e-locker is my best option option for ease-of-use/installation/maintenance.
My concern with air lockers is the maintenance cycle with air lines and then the seals inside the diff itself. E-lockers are much more set and forget assuming its assembled and wired properly.

@Rednexus good call on ECGS. I didn’t realize they had assembled third members. I think I could handle that even though I hate the smell of gear oil. I'll check and see where that cost falls vs paying a shop.
 
@Rednexus good call on ECGS. I didn’t realize they had assembled third members. I think I could handle that even though I hate the smell of gear oil. I'll check and see where that cost falls vs paying a shop.
I tried the using one "good" local gear shop we have here. I could tell they mainly work on diesel trucks and muscle cars as they had no idea what a Lexus GX was, and had a hard time grasping that it's basically a 4Runner. They ended up declining to even bid the job.

You probably have more imports on the eastern seaboard than we do here and shops who know how to work on them :). But it not, ECGS is great, and much more local to you than it is to me. If your rig is higher mileage I'd also replace the rear wheel bearings and all of the axle seals. I also added a Yotamasters stud kit to the rear diff, and sealed everything up with Toyota pink FIPG.
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Is it something you can just roll into your work truck or do you have lift it in?
I will just use it at the house…definitely not fitting in the back of my 460, due to the sleeping platform. Wonder if it will it fit in the back of my wife’s?
 
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I will just use it at the house…definitely not fitting in the back of my 460, due to the sleeping platform. Wonder if it will it fit in the back of my wife’s?
Cut/section out the posts so the top shelf sits almost on top of the DI tank and pressure washer. I don't believe you need the top shelf to be that high. You don't put anything on it do you?
You can also go modular. Use quick clamps like Destaco clamps and jigs to center your gear on the shelf. Then all you're lifting is an empty cart. Once the cart is out of your rig, just take your equipment one by one, set in it's seat and clamp down. Should be a very quick setup for on site detailing.
 
Godspeed lol
******* do I need it haha

Typing this out so I remember
Step 1, Replace terminals, see if that works
Step 2, Remove entire center console and infotainment and re-wire from scratch, see if that works
Step 3, Check and remove/reinstall all wheel speed / ABS sensors, see if that works
Step 4, Go over every wire in the engine bay and main harness area with a fine tooth comb to check for any kind of rodent damage, see if that works
Step 5, [Action redacted for insurance purposes lol]
 
******* do I need it haha

Typing this out so I remember
Step 1, Replace terminals, see if that works
Step 2, Remove entire center console and infotainment and re-wire from scratch, see if that works
Step 3, Check and remove/reinstall all wheel speed / ABS sensors, see if that works
Step 4, Go over every wire in the engine bay and main harness area with a fine tooth comb to check for any kind of rodent damage, see if that works
Step 5, [Action redacted for insurance purposes lol]
Good luck. I hope it reveals itself early and you dont have to go full Amish mechanic on the dash.
 
Friday night. 90 degrees. Heat index near 95. Wife and Kid A are away. Kid B is at my parents' house for the night. Time to try and unfuck the Lexus.
Kid A, first thing I thought of was Radiohead.
 
This dude just walked on by.

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Was aired up in 10 minutes yesterday. I aired down to 11 and aired up to 33 front 32 rear.

Air Hub finally worked correctly and I have the compressor working.

Its an expensive setup, but its now mostly futz free so I can set it up and then go wander around and shoot the s*** with other folks on the trail.

I am guessing I probably have over 1500 in my air up air down setup. I have a bad back and just being able to set it and forget it is huge.

Also with my back issues, airing down to "Spinal Tap" pressure just really smooths out the trail. I feel like the Yoko MTs really come into their own at that psi.

I might even be willing to try middle saint vrain again. I turned around after a mile because I kept hitting my skids.
 
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Removed the full roof rack and lights I had up top. I'd been chasing this weird low speed/low rpm resonance (off throttle, anywhere between 20-40mph) for years and a friend suggested it was the roof rack causing some weird harmonics with the roof structure. We might've actually solved it, but the problem is that (despite that fact that I think these style of roof racks are ugly) I actually use the damn thing a lot so will want to put it back on at some point.

Ignore the hard water on the hood, our water is pretty mineralized so it takes a bit to get off.

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