greencruiser round 2

[slickrock]

so I built my cruiser up over the years from many different parts and its worked quite well with soa 305qjet stock 4spd and 4.10s welded rear with 60 srprings and traction bar on 37s. but the qjet just wasnt as good as i wanted when in real steep situations aswell the gearing just wasnt enough.

so i figured it was time change a few things around so i aquired a recently rebuilt 350 tbi from an 89 burban, sm465 and a 3spd case i had kicking around. and now ive finally been getting enough time to work on it. so as it sits now i have tubed the front end and done a shackle reversal moving the front end forward about 4 inches. modified some of the sheet metal to fit back in around the tube. welded the spiders in the front third and a built a long spline cv driveshaft with the trail gear kit and a minitruck cv. the tbi motor is in and almost ready to be wired up. i bought a howell harness to try to speed things up but still have to cut into it and adjust some of the wires. made a twinstick for the 465/3spd and waiting on a clip and pivot ball for a cast clutch fork

also decided to tap the steering box for ram assist

WOuld you mind taking some close ups of how yo made your twin stick ont he t-case?

 

[greencruiser]

not sure what code is coming up cuz i dont have a diagnostic tool yet but its still seems to be running quite well gonna pick up a cheap one from wallmart or something

as for the twin sticks they were really easy to make I re used alot of stock pieces the shifter rods are 3spd tranny ones with drill press handles, made a little arm for the hi-n-lo shifter and the 2-4 is pretty much the stock setup cut it and re welded to match offset

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

not sure what code is coming up cuz i dont have a diagnostic tool yet but its still seems to be running quite well gonna pick up a cheap one from wallmart or something

You may already be aware of this, but if you have a 'check-engine' light installed it will flash the trouble codes when you use a paper clip (or anything) to jump the A and B terminals on the ALDL connector. Here's a link to a site with the codes deciphered: Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical.

 

[slickrock]

Thnaks for the pics!

 

[greencruiser]

You may already be aware of this, but if you have a 'check-engine' light installed it will flash the trouble codes when you use a paper clip (or anything) to jump the A and B terminals on the ALDL connector. Here's a link to a site with the codes deciphered: Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical.

thanks for the link i heard about doing that but it sounds like a pain in the ass the manual that came with my howell harness has all the codes identified but maybee I should get on of them usb cable that goes to a laptop

 

[FLYINGLOW]

its alive!

got this beast fired up on sunday. it took a bit of messin around but worked out good. now it seems when the engine gets warmer the check engine light comes on and the engine revs up a bit, not sure why but might have something to do with my electric fan not coming on soon enough or maybee too soon anyways its coming along and there is light at the end of the deep dark tunnel

It does that because the coolant temp sensor is gettting to hot which causes the idle to kick up and run rich to decrease cylinder temps. Make sure your coolant is mixed right and topped up. Do you have a mechnanical temp gauge installed? Do you know what temps you are getting to? You might want to double check that you have the right sensor for that system, if it isn't the correct resistance it might be reading high.

 

[greencruiser]

It does that because the coolant temp sensor is gettting to hot which causes the idle to kick up and run rich to decrease cylinder temps. Make sure your coolant is mixed right and topped up. Do you have a mechnanical temp gauge installed? Do you know what temps you are getting to? You might want to double check that you have the right sensor for that system, if it isn't the correct resistance it might be reading high.

thats what i was thinking too i actually dont have a working temp guage either(getting one soon) and the sensor is original to the motor which is from a 89 burban that i got as a complete running truck. thinking im gonna need to get/make an overflow bottle and maybee get a different rad cap. might adjust the electric fan controler aswell

 

[greencruiser]

well i got some new guages installed and it turns out that the engine is getting to about 210 and then the engine light comes on, and it was kind of wierd because my electric fan wasnt kicking in and the rad hose only felt warm right by the tstat housing so i removed the tstat and now its working way better and only gets to about 190(just idling) so it seems better anyways. guess i might have over heated it before i had the guage but hopefully didnt damage nothing.

 

[greencruiser]

made a a bit of progress restored a clean early style fuel tank with por inside and out, put a fuel pressure guage on my tbi, finished the fuel lines, and I got the tank in and passenger seat all bolted back in.. its coming along. also tookit for a bit of a test drive and found that the check engine light is still coming on then it runs kinda crappy and im not sure that its related to the water temp. thinking of getting the usb to aldl cable and borrowing a laptop to try and figure it out

anyways got some more pics

 

[greencruiser]

oh yeah and for the fuel pickup fitting on the fuel tank I turned a inverted flare barb fitting into what i needed to replace the puny stock piece also had to drill the hole on the tube nut a bit bigger to let it go in. oh and i turned it in my drill press using a file to machine it

mine beside the stocker

 

[greencruiser]

Easter long weekend gives me some time to work on other projects within this bulid. got started on some removable tube fender mounting points. its gonna be sweet. I added gussets where the tubes meet and drilled a hole and welded a nut in on the backside. there will be three 1/2 inch bolts holding the tube fenders on either side. still have one gusset for the front to make but its coming niceley. then I formed some 3/8 plate around the tubing so when I start bending the bars I can tie to the mounts and it will all be removable. anyways its hard to understand so i will get some pics of this stuff up here soon

 

[greencruiser]

heres some pics of the gusset/tube fender mounts

 

[greencruiser]

one more and I finished off the day with some firewood pile flexin

 

[greencruiser]

wow i feel stupid!! was just browsing through a jegs catalog and realized that the serpentine belt system uses a reverse rotation water pump and i installed an older pump in mine so i could have the heater hose hookup. now my water pump isnt even pumping water properly at all maybee this is why im getting error codes gonna have to find a reverse rotoation pump with a heater hose port/fitting on it anyone have any ideas for a pump or should i just put the original back on and find another spot to tap in for the heater??

 

[greencruiser]

well the water pump is changed back to the original not worrying about the heater for now. managed to get some time in on my tube fenders there all bent and welded just need some sheet and some fine tuning with the grinder/flap wheel. Im stoked on the fact that there removable. anyway heres some pics

 

[greencruiser]

and the end of day shots

 

[greencruiser]

a bit more done on the tube fenders

still need to do a bit of work to em but they should be pretty slick once theyre done

 

[roadhouse]

its looking awesome

 

[greencruiser]

well now its been quite a while since ive updated this. managed to get the tube fenders all done also made a removable brace to connect the shock hoops, finished all the front end sheet metal and started repainting the truck with toyota 681 green which works out to pretty damn close to the paint i had before.

anyways i guess im gonna have to take some current pics to post up

 

[greencruiser]

heres the removable tube fenders, the side aprons and the tub all primed