Good brakes

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Output Shaft said:
But it's awesome that Godwin found a cross replacement for the 60s booster, using the 80s booster. Now we've got a replacement when ours die.
Thanks @Godwin !
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Yes, @Godwin knows his cruisers......and his reptiles! I once posted a pic of a rattler I came across at an old mine dump in SE Arizona and he was all over the correct identification. I forget what kind of rattler it was. It wasn't a western diamondback but it was almost a direct bolt in for one!!!
 
They are not necessarily a larger diameter booster but I believe the 80 boosters are dual diaphragm brake booster. I find my 60 stops just fine when I drive it like a Land Cruiser, not a Porsche!!!
 
This might be a dumb question, but do the FJ80/FZJ80 front calipers bolt onto the 60 series like the 4runner calipers? Are the FJ80 calipers larger like the 4runner calipers?
 
Bear Lake Cruiser said:
When you say direct bolt in, does it mean simply that? Using all the same fasteners? With out messing with any brake lines? What year FJ60 do you have?
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1984 FJ60. It's a direct bolt in.

I should use the caveat that on 2nd gen Pickups you can only use a 4runner or T100 booster (or camper special Toyota) because of firewall clearance. This is not an issue on an FJ60 however so any 3rd gen booster will work. Just make sure you grab the vacuum check valve from the donor! Toyota wants $45 for it new and few auto parts houses stock it.

These trucks are far easier to find than FZJ80s.
  • 1990-1995 4x4 Pickups
  • 1990-1995 4Runners
  • 1993+ T100
 
@FordFascist thanks a bunch, I will have to give it a go. Others on different threads mention having to cut 1/4 of 5/16 off the actuator rod. Some mention they did not, What was your experience? Also, some mentioned having to mount upside down, others did not. What did you do?

I probably won't go look in a pick and pull, just buy a remanufactured one.
 
T if you do it, let us know how it works out. Combobulated Theory is one thing... But the real deal is the real deal.

If you do do it, please do a few hard braking tests with your old booster and again with the new.

Am very curios...
 
Side by side testing with replications would be best but very few of us have that capability or time. I'm just trying to hang on to what I have and keep the old Cruisers on the road.

With the 80 series booster I found that I had to adjust the pedal-to-booster rod by shortening it ca. 1/4", which is easily done by simply loosening the lock nut and rotating the rod. If you look at the 60 series booster the vacuum port is on the left side, while on the 80 the port is on the right side. The 60 series hose plugged right in. I guess that OEM booster has a built in check valve because I did not use one in the line for the 80 series booster.

I previously tried an aftermarket 4Runner booster from Rockauto, I think the brand was Centric. This booster required a check valve. While this booster was a noticeable improvement it died after a few months. I'm of the opinion that OEM used is better than aftermarket new with a booster.
 
Output Shaft said:
T if you do it, let us know how it works out. Combobulated Theory is one thing... But the real deal is the real deal.

If you do do it, please do a few hard braking tests with your old booster and again with the new.

Am very curios...
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F.......will do but not sure as to when. I have three cruisers and they all have a list of things I want to do.
 
Bear Lake Cruiser said:
@FordFascist thanks a bunch, I will have to give it a go. Others on different threads mention having to cut 1/4 of 5/16 off the actuator rod. Some mention they did not, What was your experience? Also, some mentioned having to mount upside down, others did not. What did you do?

I probably won't go look in a pick and pull, just buy a remanufactured one.
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I did not have to cut anything off said booster, though I usually check the pedal adjustment any time I mess with something in the brake area.

Here is what mine looks like installed. Notice the in-line check valve fastened to the master cylinder studs.

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FJ80 booster in an FJ60, note that the vacuum port is in the upper right corner with booster mounted. Couldn't read the part #. The master cylinder is a 1995 4Runner MC.

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FJ80 booster in FJ60. Part # is 817-0880 2623 I think. The numbers were not easy to read. 1995 4Runner MC mounted to booster. Vacuum port is in the upper left corner on this booster (see next pic.).

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FZJ80 booster in a 1997 FZJ80. Part # is 864-02201 5719 I think; some of the numbers were unclear. Vacuum port is in the upper left corner.

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Last edited:
To answer an earlier question, no, changing the hydraulic parts or the assist parts don't improve
the performance of the brake system itself, i.e. 60- to- zero times..
It CAN dramatically change/ improve pedal FEEL, driver
confidence, and the rate at which you get to full stopping power. So in real world scenarios,
it MAY improve your stopping distance some, and also may inspire the confidence to modulate the pedal,
and steer around the problem in front of you.

That said, it's always hard to find really good modern NOT RACE pads for older vehicles, and that's the #1 thing that'll
really help braking performance on the street.

t
 
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