Goat 5.3

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looks like it has an FPR built into the fuel rail on the left side...

has the return and the feed over there.

might make fuel line setup a bit easier!
 
Just got off the phone with Wait4Me Performance who I was planning on using for my wire harness and ECU programming. It turns out that they won't do mine because I am wanting to switch from the drive by wire throttle body to the cable driven type with the IAC and TPS. I guess they don't like having to wire in new connectors. I'll probably end up talking with Howell, but I will be staying away from FIS. Then again, Howell probably doesn't make a harness that will do both either. Might just be stuck having to use the drive by wire TB and modding up the pedal.
 
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I decided to go ahead and go with Wait4Me Performance to get my harness and computer figured out. For those of you that don't know about these guys, they don't give you a completely new harness like Howell's does, but they rewire the current one so that it will work. They are considerably cheaper than anyone else ($360 total), so I'll let you all know how I like the work once it is completed. Rover67 used them on his after FIS messed it up for him. I have to stay with the stock drive by wire throttle body, so now I have the joy of picking up the pedal and TAC to hook up to my harness. So many little things like this are going to really take all the money I've got...
 
I decided to go ahead and go with Wait4Me Performance to get my harness and computer figured out. For those of you that don't know about these guys, they don't give you a completely new harness like Howell's does, but they rewire the current one so that it will work. They are considerably cheaper than anyone else ($360 total), so I'll let you all know how I like the work once it is completed. Rover67 used them on his after FIS messed it up for him. I have to stay with the stock drive by wire throttle body, so now I have the joy of picking up the pedal and TAC to hook up to my harness. So many little things like this are going to really take all the money I've got...

You wont miss the money once your rolling again with the 5.3,
It'll all be worth while soon enough... ;)

where are you mounting the new computer?
 
I was originally going to try to get it back into the glove compartment where my old one was, but after seeing the size of it it doesn't look like that is going to be happening. I checked out Rover67's truck the other night and he has his on the driver's side fender. I was worried about getting water on it there, but he mentioned that the ecu is water resistant, so I may go for that.
 
Rover, I did notice the FPR on the fuel rail, but after reading this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/151283-my-first-ever-engine-swap-9.html I'm not sure that it will work. Seems like this guy had a lot of problems until he went with the after market FPR. I'll probably try the stock one and go after market if it is needed. I'm not sure where I would send the return line from the stock fpr if I already have one from an after market fpr. Maybe I will just tee them together if I have to go after market.
 
I've tried to get in touch with Randy to see if he has or can get another of those oil pressure fittings, but he hasn't responded. Does anybody that has done this swap know where I can find one?
 
Cleanup

Got to do a little more cleanup tonight. Painted the front part of the frame with rust bullet. I'll do the second coat tomorrow and hopefully have some rubberized undercoating coming in this week sometime.
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Just got off the phone with Wait4Me Performance who I was planning on using for my wire harness and ECU programming. It turns out that they won't do mine because I am wanting to switch from the drive by wire throttle body to the cable driven type with the IAC and TPS. I guess they don't like having to wire in new connectors. I'll probably end up talking with Howell, but I will be staying away from FIS. Then again, Howell probably doesn't make a harness that will do both either. Might just be stuck having to use the drive by wire TB and modding up the pedal.

I just got a Howell harness. They do the cable drive harness. They also have a TON of stuff you may or may not need for the conversion. Theyre pretty spendy, but they are also a VERY reputable name in the biz. I had contemplated re doing a factory harness, but decided that was the LAST place I wanted to have problems.
Ill be setting my 5.3 in my 40 this weekend. I too know painfully little about this process, but...Im just DOING IT as you are.
My build is in the
hardcore section. There might be some info useful to you in there on this topic.
Might wanna look into doing the NP203-19 spline dual case set up too....Just a thought if its gonna be a wheeler. Im trying to squeeze that in the 40, but you would have no problems with the length of the 60.

Good luck!

Keith
 
I've tried to get in touch with Randy to see if he has or can get another of those oil pressure fittings, but he hasn't responded. Does anybody that has done this swap know where I can find one?

As far as I know, that was a custom part he had a machinist fab up. I STILL haven't installed mine.......

A lot of people have tried to get a hold of him lately and have been unsuccessful, myself included. My guess is he's completely buried at his shop, which is a fairly new venture for him.
 
I've tried to get in touch with Randy to see if he has or can get another of those oil pressure fittings, but he hasn't responded. Does anybody that has done this swap know where I can find one?

There is a guy over on Pirate who is doing a 5.3 swap in the crusier section.
Cardinal Fang's thread. He found the oil pressure adapter you need.
Heading to work NOW, so I cant link it here at this time....
I think its on page 2 or 3 IIRC!

Im not too sure WHY that is needed though?
Can anyone explain that? Seems that if you went with an aftermarket gauge, it should be compatible?
 
I've tried to get in touch with Randy to see if he has or can get another of those oil pressure fittings, but he hasn't responded. Does anybody that has done this swap know where I can find one?

As far as I know, that was a custom part he had a machinist fab up. I STILL haven't installed mine.......

A lot of people have tried to get a hold of him lately and have been unsuccessful, myself included. My guess is he's completely buried at his shop, which is a fairly new venture for him.


got it in mine doesnt even work any way:lol: 3 sending units and it doesnt read:rolleyes:.. read great before.... I plan on adding a after market one later
 
got it in mine doesnt even work any way:lol: 3 sending units and it doesnt read:rolleyes:.. read great before.... I plan on adding a after market one later

Why the hell do you need to run that t piece of crap anyway for the gauge to read?
Im missing something about that. There is a oil pressure port on the motor...I just cant understand why you need to connect all the fittings, hook up the toyota and the chevy senders to get one reading?
Is it to interface with the toyota gauge?
 
exactly. I want to keep the stock oil gauge so I need to keep the original oil sending unit and then the new chevy sending unit to go to the ecu.

Okay...that makes sense then.
Seemed that there were quite a few folks trying to figure out how to get around this issue...
I think my 01 motor does NOT require the oil pressure reading to the ECU to function...Ill have to dig on this a bit.

Thanks,
 
Bolts and stuff

So after looking over the bolts I received in a bag for my tranny, I realized that I'm missing some things. I have 8 bolts, 2 are longer than the others, and 6 (the shorter ones) have threads coming out the top of the bolt, as if something else is supposed to get bolted to them. I have one of each in the pic below. Does anyone know if these are even the correct bolts, and if so, which ones go where? And are there supposed to be washers with them?

On top of that, I never received the bolts I need to mount my torque converter up to the flex plate. Guess I need to go shopping for those. If anyone happens to have a part number for them that would be great.

Then I came across the next discovery. You know those guide pins on the motor to help you guide the bellhousing in? I have them marked in the picture below as well. You will notice that I am missing the one on the left. Now I know that I can guide it in without one, it will be harder, but not impossible. My question is, will it hurt anything to not have it? I can't imagine it would be that big of a deal, but just thought I would check.
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The longer ones should be for the very bottom of the transmission. The studs are used to secure the fill tube for the transmission and the wiring harness. There are no washers for those bolts.

I would go to GM or a transition shop for the bolts for the torque converter and make sure to use lock tight in those.

I wouldn’t put it together without that guide pin because if it is off then it will wear out the bushing that the torque converter rides on. Check the transmission to see if it is stuck in there. I would also get that from GM or a transmission shop.

I worked in a transmission shop for 5 years before I joined the military in 07.
 
Thanks for the info 82fj60bigblue, and thanks for your service!

Got another question for all you guys out there that have done a genIII motor swap and live in areas that require emission testing. I'm looking at having everything on there including evap canister and so forth, but I'm curious if everyone is running the complete setup or if some of you have gotten away with deletions of items such as the evap canister, purge valve or what not. What did you notice that the "ref" looked at more than others, such as perhaps all 4 o2 sensors being present?

I realize that emission standards probably vary from state to state, but I was just curious.
 
Most of those monkeys will look for your cat with O2 sensors, smog pump, EGR hoses, and possibly a charcoal canister. That's if he's being VERY thorough.
 
I did a 2002 LQ4 swap to my FJ62 with all the smog stuff and passed. The "Ref" runs the VIN number on your new engine and that will tell him what emissions parts you must have. I used Speartech for my harness and they did a nice job with no problems. For the FJ oil sender just place your sender in the oil cooler block off plate above the filter. It has an angled port in it that you can tap and add your FJ sender there.
Good Luck!
 

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