Goat 5.3

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Just finished up with the undercoating and gloss paint. Still really wet in a lot of places, but I think it turned out pretty decent. Might have to go back over it a little tomorrow once everything has dried.
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Shiftin'

I got the shifter mounted up now. It's a B&M QuickSilver that mates up pretty easily to the 4L60E. I talked with some guys about the different shifters they used and one of the most useful pieces of advice was to go with a cable shift vs a direct bracket shift because the bracket is bolted straight to the tranny and therefore transfers all the vibrations and torque of the tranny over to the shifter, so it's moving all the time. That's why I went with the cable set up.
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ferd69 said:
I did a 2002 LQ4 swap to my FJ62 with all the smog stuff and passed. The "Ref" runs the VIN number on your new engine and that will tell him what emissions parts you must have. I used Speartech for my harness and they did a nice job with no problems. For the FJ oil sender just place your sender in the oil cooler block off plate above the filter. It has an angled port in it that you can tap and add your FJ sender there.
Good Luck!
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Great Idea on the oil pressure sensor..
 
Adapters Galore

So, got my AA adapter kit in today and figured I would bolt it on. Never having torn apart a transfer case before, this project is a bit daunting. The body & chassis manual helps: http://hugh4prez.nate-online.com/Cruiser and M416 Manuals/chassis-body-84-90.pdf

Here's my progress so far. It pretty much consists of cutting the 4L60e output shaft down to 5 1/2 inches, then assembling the adapter and bolting on the tcase to it. I've got some questions to ask AA about on Monday concerning one of the bearings, so may have to switch over to other projects until then. Looks like I'll be having issues getting my front drive shaft to clear the tranny oil pan. I'll take off the shielding and see if that gets me any closer.
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satchel said:
I got the shifter mounted up now. It's a B&M QuickSilver that mates up pretty easily to the 4L60E. I talked with some guys about the different shifters they used and one of the most useful pieces of advice was to go with a cable shift vs a direct bracket shift because the bracket is bolted straight to the tranny and therefore transfers all the vibrations and torque of the tranny over to the shifter, so it's moving all the time. That's why I went with the cable set up.
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That B & M setup is sweet. Clean, and looks like it belongs there from the factory.:cheers:
 
MAKE SURE ITs NOT TO LOW... or you will hit the diff WITH THE MOTOR
 
That is part of the breather system if I am not mistaken. When I got my engine/tranny pkg it was attached to a hose running back to the original t-case and up to the top of the block where it was clipped in with a floating cap just like on the axle.
 
Computer

I decided to put my computer in the fender to save on space in the engine compartment. I think it turned out well, but hopefully I won't have to get to it any time soon. I also ran my original wiring harness through both fenders to clear up space.
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Hope you got your fender liners on tight.

Looking good so far!
 
Looks really good! I wish I would have seen this thread early, I would have loved to come (I live in Golden) and give a hand as well as learn. Let me know if you need anymore help with anything.
 
satchel said:
I decided to put my computer in the fender to save on space in the engine compartment. I think it turned out well, but hopefully I won't have to get to it any time soon. I also ran my original wiring harness through both fenders to clear up space.
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Putting that ECU inside was pretty clever.. as you said hope yah dont have to pull it out anytime soon.

Looking good
 
Yeah, it really won't be that big of a deal to get at it if I need to. As for anyone wanting to get it in the same location, you pretty much just tuck it up in the hole at the front of the fender just behind the grill and then slide it all the way down the fender until it is in place, not like you have to remove the fender or anything. One more helpful note is to take off the vent on the outside of the fender and stick your hand in there so you can work from both sides of the fender while you are placing it. Duder, I'm working on it pretty much every night so feel free to stop by and look at whatever you want to. I'm pretty much learning as I go but would be more than happy to hand out any advice I've learned on it so far.
 
Does anybody know which of the relays under the dash controls the motor fuse and the blower fuse and warning lights. While I was wiring things up tonight I must have blown it? If you do know could you take a pic or give a detailed description as to which one it is under there? In the FSM it is labeled as FL ALT.

Edit: I think FL in the wiring diagram probably stands for fusible link, but all my fusible links are fine. Could it possibly be the main relay? My blower, warning lights and motor fuses don't have any voltage.
 
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satchel said:
I decided to put my computer in the fender to save on space in the engine compartment. I think it turned out well, but hopefully I won't have to get to it any time soon. I also ran my original wiring harness through both fenders to clear up space.
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That black box on the fender wall looks like it will be in the way of the hood hinge or gas shock (if you are doing that mod) when you put it all back together. You will probably need to move it forward some.
 
Got the wiring figured out. Yes the black relay box is in the way of the hood springs but I'm not putting the spring in on that side so it is a non issue. Good eye though.
 
This is looking AWESOME!
Just out of curiosity...WHY did you want that ECU so far out of sight? Did you rubber mount the ECU in there?
I just got finished rebuilding the t case and mating it a 203 with the 4L60E. Ive got a build thread in the HC section that went through all that stuff if you need any reference. Not quite the same, but...similar cuz it the 19 spline. You MIGHT be passed that though.

Great build so far. Keep it coming!
 
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