- Thread starter
- #21
Struts x2 = $45-55
L Brackets = $6
l Brackets = $8
Shop Supplies = $2
Total = Priceless
L Brackets = $6
l Brackets = $8
Shop Supplies = $2
Total = Priceless
Gas charged Hood & Hatch strut retrofit (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter bikersmurf
- Start date
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mrboatman
GOLD Star
Thanks for the info. You did a nice job on it I also like how the struts tuck up in the hood. I like your results. looks like another mod on the list.
JP
JP
- Thread starter
- #23
You'll have to post some pictures of your mod... along with any improvements you make.
- Thread starter
- #24
The rear hatch cylinders were $20 each. I found beefier looking cylinders at the Local Marine shop for $20 each for steel. Stainless Steel were $44 each. They didn't have the ones I wanted in stock so I went with made in the USA ones for about $25 each.
I've edited the title so the hood mod is reflected in it. I didn't mind the '74 hood prop, but I find the earlier split hood prop to be quite useless and my rig doesn't have a proper place for it to rest. That's my excuse anyways...
I'll report how well the different cylinders last over the years to come... if they show signs of wear... or when they do.
I've edited the title so the hood mod is reflected in it. I didn't mind the '74 hood prop, but I find the earlier split hood prop to be quite useless and my rig doesn't have a proper place for it to rest. That's my excuse anyways...
I'll report how well the different cylinders last over the years to come... if they show signs of wear... or when they do.
- Thread starter
- #25
I've found that the 96lb 'Strong Arm' struts I used for a different hatch don't slow down at the end of the stroke on a different hatch installation so the hatch opens well but ends with a bang. The flip side is the hatch now fully closes without having to slam it (which we had to do for 10 years with the OEM struts).
In contrast, the JR struts slow down their opening at the end of the stroke on the 40 hatch so there is no bang.
One thing to watch for... With the 20" length 5300 struts, (and the bracket positioning I used) the hatch opens further than Toyota designed. The result is that the paint on the top lip of the hatch touches the gutter rivets once fully opened. I'll likely shim the hatch hinges down 1/16" from the header bar to resolve this if I ever repaint the hatch. Alternatively, slightly different mounting (or 19.7") struts would likely resolve this issue.
Since I'm 6'5"+ in hikers, I want the hatch to open every last bit I can... and shimming the hinges down will likely give me an extra 1/4" height where the handle sticks down. If I had unlimited time to tinker, I'd see if the stock T handle inside could be replaced with something like:
In contrast, the JR struts slow down their opening at the end of the stroke on the 40 hatch so there is no bang.
One thing to watch for... With the 20" length 5300 struts, (and the bracket positioning I used) the hatch opens further than Toyota designed. The result is that the paint on the top lip of the hatch touches the gutter rivets once fully opened. I'll likely shim the hatch hinges down 1/16" from the header bar to resolve this if I ever repaint the hatch. Alternatively, slightly different mounting (or 19.7") struts would likely resolve this issue.
Since I'm 6'5"+ in hikers, I want the hatch to open every last bit I can... and shimming the hinges down will likely give me an extra 1/4" height where the handle sticks down. If I had unlimited time to tinker, I'd see if the stock T handle inside could be replaced with something like:
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Hey y’all. I have a 40 that was converted from ambulance doors to a hatch and tailgate. This is a much more preferred configuration for me. Could one use the rivnuts to install gas struts to the upper hatch? I don’t have oem holes there for the struts.
On the same note. I’m trying to figure out how to install tailgate support cables too if anyone has any info on that? I don’t have the mounting holes for those either
On the same note. I’m trying to figure out how to install tailgate support cables too if anyone has any info on that? I don’t have the mounting holes for those either
- Thread starter
- #28
Mine are on RivNuts. My top was originally an ambulance door top also.
Oh awesome this gives me hope. How did you know where to mount the rivnuts? Did you rivnut the top and the lift hatch?
What did you do with your lower tailgate?
- Thread starter
- #30
I had an older top as a guide. There’s a thread in my signature line that includes pictures and measurements.
The top bolts down into the top of the header bar... there should be threaded holes. If not, rivnuts should work fine.
As for the lower gate it’s a gate and tire rack combination. I still need to seal and weatherstrip it to the hatch, it hasn’t been a high enough priority so far.
The top bolts down into the top of the header bar... there should be threaded holes. If not, rivnuts should work fine.
As for the lower gate it’s a gate and tire rack combination. I still need to seal and weatherstrip it to the hatch, it hasn’t been a high enough priority so far.
Great! Thank you for the info! My lower gate is a tailgate, I think from a soft top truck. Need to figure out how to add some support cables to it, as it just kinda hangs right now. Definitely doing the gas struts with rivnuts though because I have to rest it on the spare as or right now
- Thread starter
- #32
One option would be to use cables frame a Ranger/Mazda truck. Something with a smaller tailgate... rather than starting from scratch.
Perfect, I think the hard part is figuring out how to anchor the cables into the tailgate and truck itself for me
- Thread starter
- #34
For the tub side I’d use some heavy bar inside the Channel above the fender. Either weld it in or bolt it through with an extra carriage bolt or two.
On the gate, likely angel iron brackets.
On the gate, likely angel iron brackets.
Man thank you so much for the help! didnt even think about supporting it with stronger metal. Id like to one day be able to sit on the tailgate haha with the hatch up supported by gas struts. Perfect world....
- Thread starter
- #36
That day could be just around the corner. I’m not sure if the tailgate would need extra support, but you can run something extra across (or inside) it if needed. Post some pictures if you need more ideas... I’ve never seen a tailgate in person, so my ideas are limited and not super specific.
It was raining all day and the cover is on the 40. I’ll take some pictures and upload tomorrow afternoon for you to check it out!
- Thread starter
- #40
Gate looks plenty strong enough
