G52 is a PITA to shift

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84pickup

84pickup

Joined
Feb 16, 2007
Threads
19
Messages
275
Location
Cedar City, Utah
ok so i was driving around today after school and out of nowhere my transmission just decides that it doesn't want to shift easily. i just replaced my clutch MC like 200 miles ago (like last week) it had 192,600 miles then now it has 192,800. 1984 4X4 pickup G52 tranny. original tranny and all that jazz, i just replaced the shifter seats and it was shifting great. it kind of feels like shifting without the clutch in with the truck parked and not running but it doesn't grind or anything. i bled the clutch system when i replaced the MC and it was driving better than ever until now. i'm really annoyed right now and i made myself look like an Ahole in front of a really nice, beautiful girl i was giving a ride home so that just pissed me off more and so i've just been pissed pretty much all day. i'll prolly drive my mom's sequoia tomorrow and look into the shifter housing when i get home. there was one time i thought i was going to break the stick because i had to push on it so hard. any help would be much appreciated. oh and the clutch was replaced like 30K miles ago.
 
The tranny is just worn out. I had the G52 in my 84 Runner, it got to the point were it was hard getting it into 1st or Rev. I replaced it with a 92 W56-D someone had for sale. Like night and day, not only did the shifting problems go away but the power and MPG are better. The ratios are the same so the only thing I can figure is tha the G52 was so worn it was creating drag.
 
fourwd1 said:
The tranny is just worn out. I had the G52 in my 84 Runner, it got to the point were it was hard getting it into 1st or Rev. I replaced it with a 92 W56-D someone had for sale. Like night and day, not only did the shifting problems go away but the power and MPG are better. The ratios are the same so the only thing I can figure is tha the G52 was so worn it was creating drag.
Click to expand...

But he said it was shifting great, then 200 miles after a new clutch master install, it started with the hard to shift problems.

I would start with bleeding it again really good... If that doesn't work, take back the master if possible and exchange it with a different one..

Where did you buy the master? Was it new or rebuilt?
 
it's a brand new aisin MC from marlin Crawler. i'll try bleeding it again sometime but it's really starting to piss me off and it doesn't help to have stupid people doing stupid stuff that really pisses me off.
 
oh yeah i'm kind of wondering if the syncros are bad.
 
depending on how its 'shifting badly' it could also be the shifter seat. I have seen them be bad enough so the shifter flops over and hits you in the knee :LOL:

Be more descriptive, is it grinding, not letting go between gears etc.
 
it's not grinding very often, it will occasionally but it may just be that i'm so mad at it that i shift too quick for the clutch to disengage but sometimes it has plenty of time to disengage. i've already replaced the shifter seat and i checked it today and looks almost new still. when i replaced the shifter seat, there wasn't a single chunk of the old seat just tiny little bits of it and it shifted pretty easily. it was a little hard to shift then but nowhere near what it is now. i'm dropping the tranny tonight or tomorrow to see if the clutch isn't disengaging or something like that. if the clutch isn't letting go will it make a grinding noise or anything?
 
I wouldnt bother, unless your going to replace it. You wont be able to check if its dis engaging with it out of the truck
First check to see if the arm going into the bell housing is moving freely, and make sure (as been said) that you bleed the system. I have had brand new slaves give it up for no reason.
 
define freely. it kind of jiggles around but i'm sure that it's supposed to have the pressure up against the clutch. i've everything ready i just need to unbolt it from the engine and take off the Xmember for the transfercase so i think i'll go ahead and take it off and at least look at the condition of the seals and stuff and the clutch to look at the wear.
 
84pickup said:
define freely. it kind of jiggles around but i'm sure that it's supposed to have the pressure up against the clutch. i've everything ready i just need to unbolt it from the engine and take off the Xmember for the transfercase so i think i'll go ahead and take it off and at least look at the condition of the seals and stuff and the clutch to look at the wear.
Click to expand...

Have you had anybody press the clutch pedal while you're underneath checking if the slave is doing it's job of pushing the clutch fork?
If you want, I can have my wife do the pedal and I'll measure how far the clutch fork moves when she pushes it in & you can compare it to yours....

Pulling the tranny is a pain in the ass. I just pulled out one a few months ago and swapped it out for a good one... It took a few years from when I first started noticing the symptoms to get bad enough to change out, I just can't see yours going from shifting good to hardly being able to shift in such a short amount of time. And with you just changing the MC, it seems to me more unlikely it's the tranny.
 
i've got it out in record time even! (about 2 and a half hours with my friend helping) it seems like it shifted fine when we got it out but that was at 4:20 AM. we were looking at all the gears and syncros and stuff that we could see throught the shifter seat hole and i saw a bunch of stuff at the bottom of the tranny that looked like metal shavings. when i put a magnet to them i found that they were metal shavings there was also A LOT of shavings and stuff on the drain magnet when i drained it. so i'm going to see what my dad wants to do. have him look at it and see what he thinks. all the bearings and stuff feel and smell fine. i'm probably going to replace the rear oil seal while i'm there. is there anything else i should be looking for. i only pulled it because my dad said to, to look at the intput shaft and clutch. there is a very deep ring on the outside of the clutch pressure plate and the clutch does have signs of wear and slipping. can i get the pressure plate resurfaced or do i just need a new one?
 
fourwd1 said:
Yeah, and he named the thread
Click to expand...

In my experience in driving Toyotas for the past 17 years is that the trannys don't go from shifting fine to shifting like s*** in 1 week/200 miles.

He said it was shifting fine, he changed the clutch master cyl drove 200 miles and it became hard to shift... In just 200 miles?

If it were me, I would suspect the new master being defective, an air bubble in the system, or the slave cylinder going bad...

I like to check the easy to get to stuff first before I tackle something like pulling the tranny. Especially if you pull the tranny to find out it was just the new master being defective....

I'm not trying to be a dick, but in your first post, first sentence you told him his tranny was worn out... kind of jumpin the gun a little?

Maybe it is, (I hope not) but it seems unlikely.

:cheers:
 
yeah i get what you mean and i understand but i'm doing what my dad wants me to do. he said read the FSM troubleshooting and it said check the input shaft so my dad said check the input shaft. The MC is an AISIN brand new straight from Marlin Crawler so i'd pretty surprised if it was bad. and even then i'm pretty sure the clutch was disengaging and engaging because it wasn't slipping and didn't smell like anything was slipping like it did before i replaced the MC. it would seem to me that if there was an air bubble in the system it would have manifest it's self before like right when i first drove it to see if there were any bubbles. Also when i bled the system i replaced all the old fluid and the resivoir deffinetly never went empty. i guess i'll tear the slave apart and see if i can tell if it's bad or not. but i'm really wondering whether i should tear into the tranny to see what those metal shavings were from because there was a lot in there for having changed the fluid like 10,000 miles ago. the wierd thing is that it's still a little hard to shift with the tranny out but a lot easier than with it in while driving. i've got pics of the clutch and pressure plate so i'll post those here in a sec.
 
th_IMG_0234.jpg

This is the pressure plate you can distinctly see the deep ring around the outside of it. (the white line)
th_IMG_0233.jpg

over view of it
th_IMG_0232.jpg

pic of the clutch. you can see where it was slipping or wearing or something.
th_IMG_0231.jpg

whole clutch. i'll get pics of the flywheel if anyone wants but it doesn't look or feel bad.

if you need bigger pics go to http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/roastbeefstew/
 
84pickup said:
yeah i get what you mean and i understand but i'm doing what my dad wants me to do. he said read the FSM troubleshooting and it said check the input shaft so my dad said check the input shaft. The MC is an AISIN brand new straight from Marlin Crawler so i'd pretty surprised if it was bad. and even then i'm pretty sure the clutch was disengaging and engaging because it wasn't slipping and didn't smell like anything was slipping like it did before i replaced the MC. it would seem to me that if there was an air bubble in the system it would have manifest it's self before like right when i first drove it to see if there were any bubbles. Also when i bled the system i replaced all the old fluid and the resivoir deffinetly never went empty. i guess i'll tear the slave apart and see if i can tell if it's bad or not. but i'm really wondering whether i should tear into the tranny to see what those metal shavings were from because there was a lot in there for having changed the fluid like 10,000 miles ago. the wierd thing is that it's still a little hard to shift with the tranny out but a lot easier than with it in while driving. i've got pics of the clutch and pressure plate so i'll post those here in a sec.
Click to expand...

Since you have it out, might as well start checking craigslist to see if there are any good ones available in your area... just in case....

I wonder if the diaphragm on the pressure plate can lose its ability to pull back off the disc? :confused:

Hopefully it's just something easy and not an expensive fix.
 
84pickup said:
th_IMG_0234.jpg

This is the pressure plate you can distinctly see the deep ring around the outside of it. (the white line)
th_IMG_0233.jpg

over view of it
th_IMG_0232.jpg

pic of the clutch. you can see where it was slipping or wearing or something.
th_IMG_0231.jpg

whole clutch. i'll get pics of the flywheel if anyone wants but it doesn't look or feel bad.

if you need bigger pics go to http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/roastbeefstew/
Click to expand...

You're not down to the rivets on the disc yet. I forget what the tolerance is when you have to replace... :doh:
If you are going to go with a new clutch kit, the flywheel is not too hard to take off. It's pretty cheap to have it re-surfaced and it only takes a few minutes at a machine shop. I sat & bs'd with the guy while it was on the machine. :cool:
 
yeah the FSM says that about 0.3 mm is the tolerance for it down on the rivets. it's at about 1mm after 30k miles. how would i go about keeping the engine from turning over while i'm taking the flywheel off without the tranny. i've got a strap wrench and a chain wrench but they have pretty short handles and my cheater isn't that long. i'll have my dad look at the clutch and see what he thinks about getting a new clutch system instead of just the pressure plate. could i test the pressure plate with my 20 ton hydrolic press? i'll go back in my records and see if it's ever been replaced.
 
would i be able to tell if the slave is bad just by pushing the pedal and seeing if the thing pushes out like it should? also what kind of pistol is that? i can't tell if it's a glock, springfield, or what it is but i looks nice. my dad's got a kimber TLE II .45 ACP and a SW 1911 carry pistol made of scandium.
 
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