Hey guys I also have another issue, the oil warning light comes on every now and then. The oil gauge though indicates oil above half way, I have checked dipstick, all good. No knocking or irregular noise, all sounds good. I was wondering if it is the oil pressure sensor. Anyone know how to test it? Any thoughts as what to look for? Thanks
Fzj80 oil warning light.
- Thread starter PJ fzj80
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Are you checking the oil a minute or 2 post shut down? If you're checking on a cold engine it will read higher.
The gauge on your dash cluster indicates oil 'pressure' not oil level, so you did the correct thing by checking the dipstick. The dipstick is the one and only way (empirical evidence) to know your oil level.
That said, Toyota did install an oil level sensor in the oil pan. It is simply an arm with a small float at the end of it. IF/when the oil level gets below a certain height in the oil pan...the sensor (if working correctly) will display a light on your dash.
Trouble is....dirt, oil or corrosion at the sensor connector will trigger the light....as will a sticking float. Most of the time simply cleaning the connection at the pan will solve your problem. You can pull the unit and clean it if you suspect the float is sticking.
I know the light is alarming when it comes on, but do as you did (check the dipstick, vehicle on level surface, engine off). The only other thing to watch is your oil 'pressure'...but that is a matter of watching the dash mounted gauge. Since you said yours would reach the 1/2 way mark...it sounds as if it working correctly.
C
Had to replace mine with new. Cleaning it didn’t work.
my light came on last night a a minute or two, mind you its -10 when i was driving to the iowa caucus. slow speed on a gravel road. could it also be so flipping cold the float is kinda stuck till it warms up?
Did you check the oil level on the dipstick???
it was -10 last night when i get back last night. dark. the last thing i was dong was checking oil. bad i know. but the light just came on then went off. great oil pres. and normal coolant temps. i am looking at tonight when i get into the shop and get the wood burner fired up. Too damn cold last night. and i only drove like 4 miles each way last night too.
It takes about 30 seconds to pop the hood, pull the DIPSTICK and check the oil level.
Please do so. Yes, the oil 'level' sensor in the oil pan have been known to be inaccurate at times, so I wouldn't put too much stock in what it was doing. The only 'true' measure is to park on a level surface and physically check the dipstick.
Unless your engine was 'knocking' it is highly unlikely there is any concern about the warning light or your oil level, but do check it as soon as possible. And thank you for voting.
Please do so. Yes, the oil 'level' sensor in the oil pan have been known to be inaccurate at times, so I wouldn't put too much stock in what it was doing. The only 'true' measure is to park on a level surface and physically check the dipstick.
Unless your engine was 'knocking' it is highly unlikely there is any concern about the warning light or your oil level, but do check it as soon as possible. And thank you for voting.
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Oil pressure has nothing to do with oil level unless it's low enough for the pump to cavitate. You could be 4 quarts low and still have good oil pressure.
FWIW, my oil light will start to come on periodically when I'm 1.5 quarts down, which is about 1/2 way down the hatch marks on the dip stick. The sump holds 8 quarts, so it never really concerns me. I'll throw a quart in when I get a chance unless I'm due for an oil change. Of course I always go by the dip stick first.
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you are welcome on the voting thing. its what we got to do.
absolutely correct it will only take less than a minute. on a good day. but that damn wind and cold is a mother ****er motivator of making bad decisions or no decisions.
good news. nothing changed in the engine noise. no notice of anything actually. rest assured i will warm it up and check tonight.
absolutely correct it will only take less than a minute. on a good day. but that damn wind and cold is a mother ****er motivator of making bad decisions or no decisions.
good news. nothing changed in the engine noise. no notice of anything actually. rest assured i will warm it up and check tonight.
low on oil, maybe 2 quarts i figure. need to get more before i drive it again.
Been discussed 147 times before but here it is again:
When the oil level gets close to ~ one quart low the light will come on a minute or three after a cold start, stay on for maybe a minute, then go out. This is because IMO the cold oil is getting pumped around the engine, the engine is warming up, etc,etc.
With continued driving (days, weeks, depending on the rate your engine consumes/leaks oil) as the oil level goes further down and the light begins to stay on longer, and longer, and eventually when the engine is somewhere around 1-1/2 to 2 quarts low it will stay on continuously, IME.
Best to check the oil after the engine is fully warmed up (15+ minute drive), then park on a level surface, shut the engine down, and check the oil level. Pull the dipstick (Toyota calls it a "gauge"), wipe it off, reinsert, count to three, pull the dipstick, hold it almost horizontal (not tilted tip up), then read the level. Anything between the hatched marks is good.
Driving this engine two quarts low IME will not hurt it (assuming you're not driving across a desert for a few weeks).
When the oil level gets close to ~ one quart low the light will come on a minute or three after a cold start, stay on for maybe a minute, then go out. This is because IMO the cold oil is getting pumped around the engine, the engine is warming up, etc,etc.
With continued driving (days, weeks, depending on the rate your engine consumes/leaks oil) as the oil level goes further down and the light begins to stay on longer, and longer, and eventually when the engine is somewhere around 1-1/2 to 2 quarts low it will stay on continuously, IME.
Best to check the oil after the engine is fully warmed up (15+ minute drive), then park on a level surface, shut the engine down, and check the oil level. Pull the dipstick (Toyota calls it a "gauge"), wipe it off, reinsert, count to three, pull the dipstick, hold it almost horizontal (not tilted tip up), then read the level. Anything between the hatched marks is good.
Driving this engine two quarts low IME will not hurt it (assuming you're not driving across a desert for a few weeks).
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And I have read this all before, but it was not at the top of mind late the other night as I panicked, dropped into neutral and shut the key off on a deserted snowy road. As I was reaching for the key I did look at the actual gauge and notice that I did have pressure. Got out on the conveniently level shoulder and checked the oil. The level was exactly at the bottom of the hash marks... and that was the moment when I remembered how the light worked.
The sump holds 2 gallons. If you're anywhere on the dipstick, you'll be just fine.
When my 91FJ80 was new, I would go to my local Toyota dealer for service. One time the "technician" only put in 4 quarts. I drove that for the next 3000 miles, and noticed it on my next oil change. Engine still runs strong with over 350K miles.
I just put a new sensor in and it Stop the light from ever coming on again
My oil level light used to come on pretty regularly, and then i determined that the sensor connector was broken.
I took it off the pan, washed it as best as i could with soap and water, and then purple power, and then alcohol, and then epoxied the connector body back on.
And after that, it just comes on when it's a quart low. I try to keep a quart in the back for these occasions.
I took it off the pan, washed it as best as i could with soap and water, and then purple power, and then alcohol, and then epoxied the connector body back on.
And after that, it just comes on when it's a quart low. I try to keep a quart in the back for these occasions.
Sounds good. It was really easy for me to just replace it. Glad you got it fixed!
2nd the cold oil and connector fault diagnoses....if you have pressure. My connector has lost elasticity in the lock tab and won't stay locked (287K). I've seen the cold oil effect a few times and always verified level by the dipstick when concerned.
This discussion was in another thread, but I started having a random intermittent oil light some time last summer. I was never worried about it because I rely on the dipstick, and knew this happens.
Ordered a new gasket for the float knowing I wanted to service it. Most of the work involved cleaning all the crud off the outside, around the elec plug, and I bet that was more of my issue. Pulled the float, cleaned it (wasn't dirty or sticking), reinstalled, and no more intermittent behavior. But then I totaled it, so I don't have long term feedback.
Ordered a new gasket for the float knowing I wanted to service it. Most of the work involved cleaning all the crud off the outside, around the elec plug, and I bet that was more of my issue. Pulled the float, cleaned it (wasn't dirty or sticking), reinstalled, and no more intermittent behavior. But then I totaled it, so I don't have long term feedback.
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