So my 1994 model 80 blew a radiator hose. I got a full set of new hoses and drive belts to install, but in the meantime I just replaced the burst top radiator hose.
I removed the bottom bash plate/guard in anticipation of replacing the lower hoses. I didn't get to finish the job and in the mean time I drove through a large volume of water. Engine stalled and it took me a while to restart the engine. Made the 1 hour drive home fine.
The next day all the dash lights came on when the engine was running, indicating a non-functioning alternator.
So I pulled the alternator and gave it a thorough clean out as per a great thread here:
Alternator clean and rebuild
I checked the alternator condition and the tests on the bridge rectifier diodes showed some had burnt out. So I replaced the entire rectifier/regulator/brushes with a new assembly.
The diode check method is shown in a video I posted in the above linked thread.
I just finished putting everything back together and as I installed the battery terminal I let out all the smoke - coming from the fusible link. This was with the key out of ignition switch and everything turned off. I don't know if the fusible link was partly burnt out already from the previous alternator issues.
I pulled the entire link out and the main green wire was melted all the way through, no conductance.
My question is, can I just temporary install a home made fusible link to test the system, or if I use a wire too large am I likely to burn everything out? Obviously the link is supposed to burn first rather than melt expensive components.
I don't want to go an buy the new link from Toyota just to burn it out straight away.
Or are there some checks I can do before I replace the link? I already checked and the alternator wire is correctly on the B+ post, and the 3 other alternator wires are plugged in properly. I have really messed with any other electrical connections.
I won't be able to get to Toyota spare parts until Monday, so have some time to test things.
Thanks for any advice.
I removed the bottom bash plate/guard in anticipation of replacing the lower hoses. I didn't get to finish the job and in the mean time I drove through a large volume of water. Engine stalled and it took me a while to restart the engine. Made the 1 hour drive home fine.
The next day all the dash lights came on when the engine was running, indicating a non-functioning alternator.
So I pulled the alternator and gave it a thorough clean out as per a great thread here:
Alternator clean and rebuild
I checked the alternator condition and the tests on the bridge rectifier diodes showed some had burnt out. So I replaced the entire rectifier/regulator/brushes with a new assembly.
The diode check method is shown in a video I posted in the above linked thread.
I just finished putting everything back together and as I installed the battery terminal I let out all the smoke - coming from the fusible link. This was with the key out of ignition switch and everything turned off. I don't know if the fusible link was partly burnt out already from the previous alternator issues.
I pulled the entire link out and the main green wire was melted all the way through, no conductance.
My question is, can I just temporary install a home made fusible link to test the system, or if I use a wire too large am I likely to burn everything out? Obviously the link is supposed to burn first rather than melt expensive components.
I don't want to go an buy the new link from Toyota just to burn it out straight away.
Or are there some checks I can do before I replace the link? I already checked and the alternator wire is correctly on the B+ post, and the 3 other alternator wires are plugged in properly. I have really messed with any other electrical connections.
I won't be able to get to Toyota spare parts until Monday, so have some time to test things.
Thanks for any advice.
