An East coast rust free rig no less. That truly is rare! Was this a local find or did you have to travel? The white paint is single stage versus base coat/clear coat and tends to fair better in harsh climates.
FZJ80 - Common Problems?
- Thread starter Perfectmax
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Search for beno on here. Oem at a great price and a source of knowledge. Cruiserdan if you are out west.
- Thread starter
- #23
Ok, you got me. She's an import (at least in terms of regions). Bought out in Seattle and had her shipped in to NC.
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- Oct 17, 2014
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Great looking rig. My next one will definitely be from the west coast. CT winters have not been kind to my undercarriage.
PNW has all the clean vehicles 
Besides the PHH it looks like all the heater hoses at the rear of the engine are original, time to change them and yes, the ones behind the valve cover are a PITA to reach. Not sure which, if any vacuum lines have lines have been replaced, you will be able to tell once in there. Most seals are hard and dry and need to be replaced at this stage. Monitor how much oil you are burning as the valve seals are probably letting a fair amount of oil by them by now.
Beautiful looking rig, congratulations.
Beautiful looking rig, congratulations.
- Thread starter
- #27
I've looked and it seems like most have been replaced. Are you seeing something I'm overlooking?
Yes, any hose that has what looks like a cotter pin in the hose clamp with a narrow metal band around the hose is original. It looks like all the heater hoses at the back of the engine are original.
- Thread starter
- #29
Took another look and you're right. Question though; they look pretty darn good. Think I should still replace um?
Low MPG
I have it on group buy now
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/92...-hose-throttle-body-hose-heater-valve.835406/
Olde north state cruisers in the clubhouse. Good guys. Sliders protect those precious rocker panels.
My first dent was a piece of wood I ran over kicked into to the rocker. The cap on the power seat gear. The y pipe on the exauhst can be an issue here in the salt belt and sure you'll have her on sand. Waiting on parts is an issue. E brake corrosion. Stuck vehicle rescue.
Oh and crack head like obsession over your rig!
My first dent was a piece of wood I ran over kicked into to the rocker. The cap on the power seat gear. The y pipe on the exauhst can be an issue here in the salt belt and sure you'll have her on sand. Waiting on parts is an issue. E brake corrosion. Stuck vehicle rescue.
Oh and crack head like obsession over your rig!
Great Looking Rig! A true Heirloom! Congratz
Hoses are known for looking good on the outside but in reality can be in horrid shape on the inside. Just like the PHH they go bad and then strand you when you least expect or need it. It is cheap insurance to replace rubber. On the other hand, those hoses could last another 50 thousand miles, is it worth the gamble?
Great info and great looking rig. You might find this pricing interesting. Mine is a 95 without lockers and 108K miles. Clean one owner rig (maybe not quite as clean as yours!) Before purchasing (three weeks ago) I took it to local Toyota for PPI. Great experience - got to inspect the vehicle with a 30 year veteran mechanic who really new LCs (i think he was the only there who had much clue about the 80 series...). Either way we put together a list of repairs needed and cost. See items below.
PLEASE let me know if any of these prices seem WAY out of line - even for dealership.....
NEEDS NOW:
Valve Cover Gasket - $339
-need to check and see if he included price of new air intake with this, i think it is included
Pack wheel bearings and alignment* - $680
GOOD IDEA:
Replace ALL belts and hoses - $972 (includes phh and all vacuum, does not include power steering hoses)
Power steering pump hoses - $1442 (not doing this, not sure why cost is so high)
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor - $521 (called a 6 cylinder tune up)
WHILE WE ARE IN THERE:
PCV valve, hose, grommet - $85 (while we are in there)
Fuel injection service - $115
Thorttle body service - $60
Flush radiator - included with hoses
Other items:
Tires - still debating on this, looking for 265-75-16 in an all terrain - $600 to $1000
Lots of bulbs - park lamps, map light, license plate - $15 (i already replaced all of these and they appeared to be original bulbs)
Power antenna - mess with this later
Cruise Control - not working but, lots of info on this site and I need to diagnose problem - $20 to $1000???
Slow power windows - only when it is cold and I live in TX so not to concerned right now
Replace Stereo - she wants a fancy aftermarket to replace to previous owners aftermarket - $500
*Front axle seals and knuckle rebuild - should do this now, but I am going to wait and just get by with packing wheel bearings and keeping close eye on for a bit
Head gasket - very minor leaking at this point
Rear Main - very minor leak at this point
Rear Window lift arms - previous owner sending me parts at no charge (FYI dealer wanted $198 a piece)
Power seat gears - previous owner sending me parts at no charge (seats work but are slipping back and forth a bit)
My dilemma is that I want to do the work myself but dont have much time right now. I need to get the basics out of the way quick as it is my girlfriends dd. So I think I am looking at about $3K for dealer to complete all repairs above (other than PS hoses), plus another $700 for tires. That is a lot of $$$ but I think it will put me in pretty good shape going forward and give me good baseline.
PLEASE let me know if any of these prices seem WAY out of line - even for dealership.....
NEEDS NOW:
Valve Cover Gasket - $339
-need to check and see if he included price of new air intake with this, i think it is included
Pack wheel bearings and alignment* - $680
GOOD IDEA:
Replace ALL belts and hoses - $972 (includes phh and all vacuum, does not include power steering hoses)
Power steering pump hoses - $1442 (not doing this, not sure why cost is so high)
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor - $521 (called a 6 cylinder tune up)
WHILE WE ARE IN THERE:
PCV valve, hose, grommet - $85 (while we are in there)
Fuel injection service - $115
Thorttle body service - $60
Flush radiator - included with hoses
Other items:
Tires - still debating on this, looking for 265-75-16 in an all terrain - $600 to $1000
Lots of bulbs - park lamps, map light, license plate - $15 (i already replaced all of these and they appeared to be original bulbs)
Power antenna - mess with this later
Cruise Control - not working but, lots of info on this site and I need to diagnose problem - $20 to $1000???
Slow power windows - only when it is cold and I live in TX so not to concerned right now
Replace Stereo - she wants a fancy aftermarket to replace to previous owners aftermarket - $500
*Front axle seals and knuckle rebuild - should do this now, but I am going to wait and just get by with packing wheel bearings and keeping close eye on for a bit
Head gasket - very minor leaking at this point
Rear Main - very minor leak at this point
Rear Window lift arms - previous owner sending me parts at no charge (FYI dealer wanted $198 a piece)
Power seat gears - previous owner sending me parts at no charge (seats work but are slipping back and forth a bit)
My dilemma is that I want to do the work myself but dont have much time right now. I need to get the basics out of the way quick as it is my girlfriends dd. So I think I am looking at about $3K for dealer to complete all repairs above (other than PS hoses), plus another $700 for tires. That is a lot of $$$ but I think it will put me in pretty good shape going forward and give me good baseline.
Prices are in line fora dealership, other than the power steering hoses. Also, I can't believe they told you it's OK to drive around with a leaking head gasket. If in fact it truly is leaking, you need to replace it first so you don't risk further damage...like warping the head or cracking the block.
Thanks for the response. It appeared to be more of a seep and was also difficult to tell at the time where and how much oil. Previous owner had thoroughly de-greased and cleaned engine (looks like they took somewhere to have it professionally done before selling). This is good and bad. Made it easier to see potential leaks but also made it hard to see how long and how serious they were. I drove it about 150 miles to have the PPI and could not see much if any oil leaks. Driven close to 2000 miles now and can see obvious valve cover gasket leaks, but still no oil on ground and no noticeable oil loss on dipstick. Honestly have not had the time to dive to much into this yet. I have a lift at work, so if it is raining tomorrow I can probably get it up and taker a closer look at everything before making decisions. If I take to dealer then I will tell them to double check the head gasket and rear main. Should have a better idea now that she has put some mileage on the car since the last time he saw it.
"Head gasket - very minor leaking at this point"
Snuck that in there didn't you...
FWIW, a $25 Blackstone oil analysis will be the best way to confirm just how bad your HG is, and how soon you need to deal with it.
Snuck that in there didn't you...
FWIW, a $25 Blackstone oil analysis will be the best way to confirm just how bad your HG is, and how soon you need to deal with it.
lol. Yea. No coolant leak from the head. Just some oil. I took a closer look last night and the valve gasket is leaking pretty bad, especially at the back. Looks to me like it is running down the the backside making it appear to be some oil from the head.....again I just need to get this thing going asap. Putting tires on as we speak 265/75/16 ko2