FZJ 80 Series Audio / Speakers

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Thanks Pasco, I'm looking for speakers that don't require door mods so not sure about Hertz. The Rockford amp seems like the cats meow for a clean and clear solution, leaning that direction!

Hertz makes a 5" speaker that is only 2" deep. Uno x-130. I went with the x-165 because its 1.77" deep but it's 6.7" diameter. I love the fosgate amp, highly recommend. I am using the PBR300X4. Good luck on your build!
 
I have a pioneer double din head unit that came with the truck (don’t really care, has Bluetooth). I threw an Alpine KTP-445U (45x4) amp behind the dash, which is highly recommended. Rockford ps8 powered sub under the driver’s seat. The front doors have a pair of focal isc165 (have an extra set if anyone needs) and the rear doors have the run of the mill pioneers.

It‘s plenty loud, fairly inexpensive and reasonably musical. If I had a 10” sub, I’d be happier, but it’s just not necessary.

I can blast everything from Alan Jackson to Dave Brubeck at volumes loud enough to cause hearing damage.
 
x2 on the Alpine KTP-445U. It’s an in-line amp that fits perfect where the factory amp used to be.

I found an Alpine ilx-107 on eBay that works awesome. Wireless CarPlay, just no knob. For the sub, I bought @NLXTACY’s rear quarter panel mount, and mounted a powered sub to it because I didn’t want to trim the panel. It doesn’t rattle the windows at red lights, but adds depth for sure.

I have a pioneer double din head unit that came with the truck (don’t really care, has Bluetooth). I threw an Alpine KTP-445U (45x4) amp behind the dash, which is highly recommended. Rockford ps8 powered sub under the driver’s seat. The front doors have a pair of focal isc165 (have an extra set if anyone needs) and the rear doors have the run of the mill pioneers.

It‘s plenty loud, fairly inexpensive and reasonably musical. If I had a 10” sub, I’d be happier, but it’s just not necessary.

I can blast everything from Alan Jackson to Dave Brubeck at volumes loud enough to cause hearing damage.
 
UPDATE! Due to covid-19, we regret to inform you LA County beaches are closed and the 80 series sound system will never sound good.

So I installed the following:

Headunit: Sony AX1000
Front door speakers: 6.5" Rockford R-series
Rear door speakers: 4" Hertz
Amplifier: JL Audio 4-way 280
Rear camera: xx

The headunit and rear camera are working great, fits perfect in the space, but the sound quality of the speakers are soooooo bad. For comparison, my little $99 portable Bose speaker puts out a warmer/better sound than all 4 of these new speakers (with amp) combined. I knew going in there wouldn't be any "base", but my god it's like a 1991 boombox when you slide all the base and mid down and leave the treble jacked up. My audio guy recommends deleting the 4" rears and adding another set of 6.5's. Is this a solution? Thinking if I add some deeper more powerful it might be better. What's the best speaker I can put in here for balanced sound? IDK, I'm frustrated that I've spent all this time and money for a crappy sounding stereo, should have just synced another portable speaker.
 
UPDATE! Due to covid-19, we regret to inform you LA County beaches are closed and the 80 series sound system will never sound good.

So I installed the following:

Headunit: Sony AX1000
Front door speakers: 6.5" Rockford R-series
Rear door speakers: 4" Hertz
Amplifier: JL Audio 4-way 280
Rear camera: xx

The headunit and rear camera are working great, fits perfect in the space, but the sound quality of the speakers are soooooo bad. For comparison, my little $99 portable Bose speaker puts out a warmer/better sound than all 4 of these new speakers (with amp) combined. I knew going in there wouldn't be any "base", but my god it's like a 1991 boombox when you slide all the base and mid down and leave the treble jacked up. My audio guy recommends deleting the 4" rears and adding another set of 6.5's. Is this a solution? Thinking if I add some deeper more powerful it might be better. What's the best speaker I can put in here for balanced sound? IDK, I'm frustrated that I've spent all this time and money for a crappy sounding stereo, should have just synced another portable speaker.

Did you use the stock wiring? It might be bad, not that it was ever good. How did you wire the amp?

I installed all new speaker wire and my truck sounds better than my DD by leaps and bounds.

Try uninstalling a speaker and wire directly to the amp with quality wire. Listen to see if they sound better.
 
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FWIW, I threw a Rockford PS-8 under the driver’s seat and adjusted crossovers for the door speakers. Works great. Not earth shaking bass, but good enough.

head unit is a non-special pioneer double din, hooked up to an alpine ktp-445 powerpack. Front door speakers are focal integration isc165, and rear door are some run of the mill 4” pioneers.
 
Do y’all find that even with the shallow speakers they still touch the window rails?

I installed infinity reference shallow mounts. Supposedly 2 1/16” depth and they still touch?
 
My LC is a 95 as well and I put a Sony XAV 205db in mine a couple of years back. installation was simple with a pre made Aerpro harness adaptor for the head unit.
Speaker wise I replaced the 2 under the dash with Sony XS-GTF1039 speakers and the rear door speakers with Rockford 6.5" two way with 1" spacers (cant remember model #)

Sub wise, I had a sub box from years ago with two 10" pioneers and a 400W kenwood mono amp fixed to the sub box. So when I want the extra oomph I just put the box in the back and it gets its power from an anderson plug near the fridge and I wired up an audio socket there thats hooked up to the sub-out on the head unit so all in all a 2 min plug n play job to get it in when wanted. Been thinking of permanently putting a sub in place of the OEM one & hidden amp but the head unit on its own is pretty good Bass wise however years of playing thru Marshall stacks has taken its toll on my ears already....


you say that your speakers sound so bad, have you checked that the polarity is correct with the wiring?
 
Do y’all find that even with the shallow speakers they still touch the window rails?

I installed infinity reference shallow mounts. Supposedly 2 1/16” depth and they still touch?
I used shallow speakers (1.8" depth) and still had to use a 1/2" spacer to clear the rails. Hertz DCX 170.3 where the shallowest I could find. Had to enlarge the hole in the door. Used the MPG 165.3 grill without the plastic insert, so its a kind of mesh like the factory cover was. If I painted the grills to color match, which I may do someday, it would look very period correct. Almost factory, just larger. Right now they are black and look fine to me.
 
Do y’all find that even with the shallow speakers they still touch the window rails?

I installed infinity reference shallow mounts. Supposedly 2 1/16” depth and they still touch?

I think it depends on how you mount them. I didn't use any special low profile speakers or spacers. I just used some kicker component speakers that came very close to touching the window rails but I installed them with the door card under the speaker and the door card gave the speakers enough room to keep them off the rails.

At least I think they are off the window rails....... they have been working great for years either way.
 
I think it depends on how you mount them. I didn't use any special low profile speakers or spacers. I just used some kicker component speakers that came very close to touching the window rails but I installed them with the door card under the speaker and the door card gave the speakers enough room to keep them off the rails.

At least I think they are off the window rails....... they have been working great for years either way.
Component woofers are generally pretty shallow since they do not have to make room for the coaxial tweeter part. If you're on top of the door card you're probably just clear of the window rail. It doesn't hurt anything if they touch anyway. An audiophile might notice some minor difference in sound quality but the bulk of us won't.
 
Old thread, but those of you running the Alpine KTP-445U, where did you end up running or splicing in your yellow fused power wire to?
 
Use the Metra harness, depin the power terminal in it, and crimp on both power leads to one terminal. You can get Toyota approved Sumitomo/Yazaki terminals from Ballenger motorsports. Don't use bullet connectors or those hideous vampire taps the "professional installers" use.
 
Use the Metra harness, depin the power terminal in it, and crimp on both power leads to one terminal. You can get Toyota approved Sumitomo/Yazaki terminals from Ballenger motorsports. Don't use bullet connectors or those hideous vampire taps the "professional installers" use.
Thank you!
 

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