fusible links (help please) (3 Viewers)

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g-man

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After some intermittent issues losing power to my ignition and horn I suspected my fusible links. Removed the old electrical tape compliments of the p.o. and found this:

DSCN0031.JPG
 
It looks like the original white fusible link burned away at the end of the green plug and the p.o. used a butt connector to some red 10g wire, then twisted to some black wire at the terminal. Then the two green fusible links (very short) are twisted together and wrapped around the red wire. Can I get a new fusible link or is it NLA? how long do the green fusible links need to be? what gauge? Is there a way to splice fusible links or can I replace the short green ones and put an new fusible links into the green plug? Do i then just crimp a ring terminal on the end of them and attach to the battery terminal?
 
If I get this, how can I plug in the white end? I have no white plug. Anyone have an extra female end that attaches to the white plug? Pref with wires on it that goes to battery. Classified ad posted.

Fusible Link - OEM
 
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That is what I changed mine out to, as the wires were breaking and the insulation was getting hard. Made a panel out of some scrap plexiglas, and bolted holders to it.
 
fuses and fuse holders instead of fusible links I guess can make life easier. Since it's easier to replace a fuse than a fusible link. But I understand a fusible link is a slow burn, slow reaction so maybe more capable of holding in case of a surge. I'm sure opinions are all over the place on this one. I'd prefer to keep things stock here if I can. Mr. T had his reasons for using fusible links.
 
Those MIDI fuses are slow blow, just as the fusible links are. I am like you, I try to keep things as original as possible. It seemed that there was a consensus of folks saying the fusible links tended to be sensitive over the long haul, so I went for dependability as this is my daily driver.
 
I managed to get the female blade terminal out of the green plug. Used a pick to open it up and dig the old wires out. Crimped the white wire to it and got it back in the harness side of the green plug.
 
#4 is a temporary fix for power seats. I am working on a new harness for them. The red wire that is between the plexiglass and AC lines, and that runs under the AC lines in the bottom left is what feeds the panel.

Sorry for the hijack g-man
 
no hijack...all related. I already have a bunch of relays and fuses on that inner fender. H4 headlight and fuse for ham radio. I like the idea of a plexiglass mounting plate. What size fuses replace the fusible links?
 
The sizes on that order from Waytek above. Minimum order of each size. Plenty left over. There is a thread on here that tells you equivalent sizes. I can take a pic tomorrow if you can’t find it.
 
when i bought my truck from previous owner - there were some random parts in a box...this was one of them

IMG_9712.jpg
 
The OEM fusible link plug arrangement is problematic. I now run a main buss and distribute power to load circuits via properly sized fusible links and fuseblocks to main wiring loom and accessories.
 
Crap. 46.23 and I just paid 70.62 at Cruiser Corps. I need to slow down and shop around.


hey glen ,

u are all set :

- sonic cleaned nylon connector housings

- new Yazaki brand Solid brass terminals

- 3 New Heat rated Mesh Loom's on main fusible links

- Tin plated Copper LUG on Battery terminal Adapter Link 8mm hole that fits OEM Toyota Battery Terminals ends

- marine Grade heat shrink adhesive lined UV rated on Battery terminal Adapter Link


- at the post office now on its way to Ya .........................:)


Thanks
 
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