Full width toyota axle?

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A little background, was cleaning up the shop one day started looking at all the FJ-60 rear axles we had laying around (we don't seem to use them very fast) and had an idea...

Started measuring the axles and discovered that we could make a wider front axle out of it (all the way to full width; chevy 69.25"). After doing a bit more measuring I also found out that we could off-set the diff so that it had a FJ-40 center line.

Fast forward six months our current FJ-40 that we are going to unveil at this years Cruise Moab will have full width Toyota axles. Not that you can't go out and just buy a Diamond (Brian's axles are nice) we will now have a potential alternative, however we are still working on a final price.

The axle pictured has 5* of caster, and the diff is pointed at the t-case front output (setup for a CV front, with max clearance at the drive-shaft).

Axle has been fully cleaned is only waiting for the truss at this point...

Lets hear your thoughts good, bad, or indifferent...





 
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Day late and a dollar short. :hmm:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/468979-fj40-rear-steer-axle-build.html


Same process but with a 40 rear housing. Same thing you have done but with a 40 instead of a 60 housing.


So explain to me why I would would want to to build a fullsize axle out of a toyota axle?

Were you not bending housings fast enough?

In my part of the country a fullsize axle kicks ass for strength but it doesnt fit well in the woods. So people compromise and build toyotas cuz they are somewhat strong and small.

Now making a toyota axle as wide as a fullsize axle puts even more stress on the wimpy sheetmetal axletubes.

If I was after fullsize axles, why not just build fullsize axles and get real gears, real lockers, real axleshafts, real axletubes, real deal.

Is this polishing a turd or smearing poop on a diamond?
 

mookie

 
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it's def polishing a turd lol......BUT if all you want to do is get wider and have already made the mistake of throwing too much $$$ at your toy axle (i.e. detroit, longs, etc. etc.) then all you've gotta buy is new inner axles......buying a D60 and then building it up strong is a pretty big investment (a smart investment imo but not always feasible for everyone myself included)
 
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I did the same thing, only I went out to 64" WMS to WMS to match my rear. I gusseted the poo out of it with 1/4" channel top and bottom. I used a set of Six Shooter knuckles and Marlin's knuckle ball gussets. I had Bobby Long make me some custom shafts to go with the 30-spline Longfields. I seriously doubt it could be bent without airing it out enough to need to contact the tower at the airport for clearance.
 

fj40charles

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If you're going with full width axles, I'd just install a D60 and be done with it.

I really can't see a reason to have 69.x" wide Toyota axle.
 
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It's definitely polishing a turd, I have nothing against Diamond, just some thing we built.

I like full widths for stability (Colorado) I think it will be every bit as strong as a normal yota axle. Also a yota axle has a bit more clearance than a 1 ton.

For me this is not much more difficult than a cut and turn only its wide and stable. That and if you run a centered wheel instead of 2" backspacing its easier on trunnion bearings and wheel bearings.

No argument on overall strength or shaft size, goes to the 1 ton hands down... We are building a buggy for Justin with 1 tons....
 
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As maligned as it is among the "hard core" folks, a birfield is smoother at angle than a U-joint. Drop outs are awesome, light weight is too if it's strong enough. Those are a few reasons to do it. I'm happy with my polished turd. It seems a better investment than trying to make a 2F go fast.
 

fj40charles

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As maligned as it is among the "hard core" folks, a birfield is smoother at angle than a U-joint. Drop outs are awesome, light weight is too if it's strong enough. Those are a few reasons to do it. I'm happy with my polished turd. It seems a better investment than trying to make a 2F go fast.
You can get a Longfield birfield for a Dana 60. Not cheap, but very strong. You're still limited to the strength of the 30 spline axles and pinion of the LC third member.

If I were to build another axle, it would be a diamond housing with Dana 60 outers, Dana 60 Longfield front axles (birfields), and Ford HP 9" nodular third.
 
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I would love to build a spider axle high 9 with spidertrax knuckles! Price is brutal though....
 

fj40charles

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I would love to build a spider axle high 9 with spidertrax knuckles! Price is brutal though....
It is only time and money.. Nice work on building your axle. You know why you're building one? Because you can. :)
 

fj40charles

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buddy it's making that swap .. ( been breaking stuff with swampers 43" under a F-350 ) kinda expensive ..
If you want to build it right, it is going to be expensive. I've got plenty of money tied up in my axles. I know about the expensive part... :-(

Long Dana 60 CV was not an option when I built my HP D60 front axle. Ended up with Superior 35 spline axles and CTM ujoints. I have not had any issue with the setup.
 
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When you polish a turd make sure to wear gloves and eye protection. When trussed and complete with longs etc it should be a strong/slick axle. A lot of work i am certain, but g.ood benefits and plenty of strength if the driver is worth a ****. Continue on my friend!!!
 

Slowerthanu

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I think it is cool but I can agree with others regarding one tons.

Of course, I have one tons in my garage and the ability to swap them over but I choose not to.
 
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I'll add to this, we just got back from Moab last night, we brought the truck back with us because we have a little finish work to do.
The truck is very stable, and it turns better than any Toy axle I have ever had. Steering stops are turned almost all the way in since the leaf springs are pretty narrow. (out boarded 1.5" from factory 40)...
 
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Agreed I was driving the truck off ledges diagonally that would have rolled a mini (where most of my experience is). With the width of the axle it didn't even feel like it was a 3' difference. Again the width coupled with the additional turning radius was amazing! If I build yota axles ever again (for myself) they will be full width no questions...
 
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69.25" Same as a GM Dana 60, however the pumpkin center line offset is the same as a 40.
We might be building another full width for a different customer pretty soon, and it will see some serious destructive testing...

Evan saw in another thread that you got a new 40?
 
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