Front Brake Job (Parts question)

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Joined
Oct 28, 2016
Threads
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Messages
153
Location
Oregon
I'm preparing to do a full brake job/front bearing replacement. I have new calipers/pads/rotors and am putting together the parts list of pins/spring/etc. Is a shim kit a necessary part of the brake job?
 
I would also do wheel bearings and seals, new "C" clips, maybe dust caps
I didn't change calipers but did a front end service a few weeks ago
I got to use my fancy dancy Slee spindle greaser
the squealers were about touching the rotor

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Shims are needed. The outer shim, clips into small (lower) and large (upper) pistons. Piston square edge seal, curls when braking. When brakes released. Seal uncurls, retracting pistons. Shim kit connect piston to pad. With hook on bottom of shim and retaining (fitting kit) clip on top. Thus pulling pad off rotor.
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Note:
1) Two different shim kits P/N: 98-02 (small pistons), 03-07 (large pistons) caliper.
2) Each front caliper (98-07), have a larger upper and smaller (Lower) size piston. Shims must be oriented accordingly.

I use a dead blow hammer, to remove rotor from hub. Steel or even forged brass hammers, will damage tone ring.
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After cleaning inner surface of hub. I, place rotor on wooden blocks, suspending wheel hub above wood/table. Then, pound hub through rotor, dropping hub to wood/table.
I don't use this type (seen in pic) plastic hammer any longer. I use plastic dead blow hammer. Pounding on wheel hub, where tone ring pressed on.
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Plastic dead blow hammer, will not damge tone ring.
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@2001LC is the expert here, however, when I did my brake job I used Bendix SBC772 brake pads that came with built-in (glued on) shims. So I guess technically my answer is, “yes, use shims, but a separate shim kit may not be necessary, depending on the pads.”

What you don’t want to do is double up on the shims.
 
Also +1 on @3_puppies advice on addressing the bearings, especially if the rotors are coming off. You’ve done the majority of the work already.

At the very least, check your wheels for “wiggle” by rocking them firmly with your hands at 12 and 6 o’clock. Any looseness at all, and it’s likely loose or worn wheel bearings.
 
If you pack or replace the bearings you'll need a new rear seal. The tab lock washer is also supposed to be one time use.

Both available in @cruiserpatch kit here.
 
If using aftermarket pads, with shim attached. We still install outer shim, clipping them into pistons & fitting kit.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I think I have the last parts on order to do the job.

I'm basically replacing everything except the hub:
OEM Rotors
OEM Calipers
OEM Pads (with springs/shim kit/pins/more springs...)
Koyo bearings & Seals
OEM Spindle Flange/Axle nut/Washer/nuts/cone washers/c-clips/dust caps
SLEE spindle Greaser
SLEE Stainless Brake line kit

Anything else I should be considering besides picking up a monster dead blow hammer..?
 
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