Freshening a '94 to become a hand me down

[BTLSHP]

Land Cruiser freshening

We have a 1994 FZJ80 with 232,000 miles on it. It is in what I term a “semi-retired” condition being driven under 17,000 miles over the last 7 years. It has been on a 3,000 miles OCI (1x annual) since new and largely maintained per the manual plus what I call break fixes. I have all the records and receipts.

Prior to then it made almost weekly trips to West Virginia of 140 miles each way. The last four miles were split between a good gravel road and road deliberately maintained to look and be difficult to drive. In winter this meant chains on all four wheels.

It has only towed a light load once DC to Atlanta, but used frequently to drag tree trunks for cutting into firewood.

Until 6 years ago it was garaged nightly.

We are planning to transition the car to the owner’s grand-daughter. She is very active outdoors and has garage space available. This will not happen for one to two years, so we have time to address real and potential issues. She lives in Denver. We did this once before with a Subaru Forrester – I immediately developed leaks in the brake hardlines. I would like to avoid a repeat.

Here is what is on my mind, but I am looking for input:


Rust:

The car was looked over extensively for major rust 4 years ago. There were two areas in the front fender zone addressed by a good body shop and something called POR15. The running boards and brackets were done at the same time with POR15.

The rest of the rust underneath was surface rust. We will inspect again and possibly coat key areas with Fluid Film or Boeshield T-9? (preferences?)

I do see a spot forming under one of the legs for the air cleaner on the fender. For the time being, I being I hit it with Fluid Film.

I pulled the four “corners” of the factory roof rack and found no rust and the rivnuts were secure. I will not lift the runners on the roof top until I have a firm game plan for what to do if disaster strikes.


Emissions:

We have the dreaded CEL 71, I am reading the saga’s on this site and will get after it.

Brakes:

Replace the major vacuum hose on the drum.

Replace pads and rotors all around as well as flush fluid.

Replace the flexible hoses at all four corners.

Re-pack front bearings (done every 30k miles).

Birfield joints have never been done. I do not know how to check for the need. Grease has been added periodically and for the last three years checked at every oil change. The front diff has not lost a meaningful amount of fluid either to my knowledge. (any other tests?)


Cooling system

Car has never overheated to our knowledge. We did the PHH 6 months ago plus a couple of small hoses coming out of the firewall in the area of the “T.” There was a small leak in the system that had the cord on these hoses sweating. On a recent 700 mile trip the coolant level remained stable.

My inclination is towards replacing every coolant hose in the system and I have found a good diagram on this site. I am a bit worried about the rear heater hoses, but would prefer to keep the rear heater in functional condition. From what I read Gates Green Stripe is a good solution.

Suspension

Tie-rod ends were done at 216k miles

Shocks/Springs were replaced with an Old Man Emu kit as part of putting on an ARB bumper at 184k miles.

Power steering appears leak free and I replaced the fluid 2 years ago.

I am thinking about doing sway bar bushings just because.


Fuel lines

We had a leak in the long return line recently and it was replaced. I also bought the short section (95334-06010) that connects to the fuel pressure regulator but I have no idea where it goes it must be under the top half of the intake manifold. Can it be done without removing the manifold?​

I am not certain I care about the EVAP lines, I will replace the high pressure inlet side from the filter to the fuel rail itself. Any other fuel related hoses that should be replaced? I lack a diagram with the clarity of the coolant lines.​

Oil​

We had a problem recently that wound up being the oil pressure sensor. Guages showed pressure to be well inside Mr. T’s guidance. Consumption has been nil, but we have a change due in 1,000 miles.

The front crankshaft seal and filter housing gasket were done 2 years ago, belts were replaced at that time.​

The valve cover gasket was done at 177k miles and seems leak free.​

Interior:​

The owner will replace the leather interior and seat cushions, he has wanted an excuse to do this for over a year. We have a good local shop and will use either Katzkin or LCH leathers.

There are no signs of headliner leaks. Driving in a super heavy rain recently did reveal a drip at the passenger A-pillar. Source is unknown, I cleaned out sunroof drains and have not been able to replicate in rain or with a hose. I did find some gunk in the drip rail along the windshield and cleaned it all out best as I could.

The dash has a tiny 3 legged tear with each “leg” under 3/8.” My temptation is to gently lift each corner and put some E-6000 or Crazy Glue under. Good idea/Bad idea?

Misc:​

Wheels need new clear coat. Can I save money and do it myself with a 2-stage rattle can product from Eastwood?​

Replace vacuum lines – major and minor.
Exhaust downpipes done at 216k miles as part of Maryland Inspection.
Tires and battery are less than 6-months old, parking brake has been re-built.
Plugs, Distributor Cap/Rotor and wires are newish I do not seem to find the receipt for that work.

Air intake hose was like concrete, I replaced it two months ago.​

​

Parts:​

I would appreciate some recommendations here. The Toyota Dealers around here offer no discounts online, I do use a Lexus dealer currently for 20% off but the LX450 started in 1995 and so I am aware there is not 100% compatibility. I am happy to keep business within the community, but I plainly admit to choking a bit on $60 for a brake hose. I am happy to use Denso or Asin, but I am not a Dorman guy.

I am not nearly the mechanic many of you are, I marvel at what some of you tackle. I think I am mostly competent to replace hoses and bits. I did recently pull the front head from my Lexus and send it out for an overhaul without incident.

I would appreciate any guidance and thoughts.​

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[BTLSHP]

I am gradually working my way through the "punch" list of what I term preventive/overdue maintenance and have parts arriving over the next week or two for the available cooling/heater and transmission hoses/clamps and some gaskets. The harmonic balancer was a surprise, but it allowed an excuse to replace rough bearings, so it has a new water pump and both idlers. The alternator got new brushes just in time.

I am trying to organize my work "packages" with the hope of only draining the coolant once and same for transmission fluid. The transmission has had routine drain and fills and perhaps one flush. I will do a drain and fill and then use one of the cooler lines to pump out the balance a quart at a time when I finish with the line replacement.

But I would appreciate insights:

The car has CEL 71 on it used to be constant now it comes and goes but is mostly off. It there is a pattern, it coms on with local driving and then 20 minutes on the highway shuts it off. I removed he EGR valve and attempted to clean the pintle area at the bottom. I plan to pull the upper IM and clean it completely along with adding some sort of simple catch can - Lowes or Amazon

While I have the IM off, I intend to replace the entire PHH hose/pipe following Kernal's view that one needs to improve the protective paint on that pipe and maybe go with a short stub of green stripe. Heater Valve & other hoses will be done. At this point I can easily test the VSV bits.

Th valve cover gasket was on in 2011 at 177k miles, the spark plug seals were not done. The rear passenger corner of the VCG has a minor seep. I am thinking of replacing with all this work as I am almost there and from what I read it make the PHH pipe an easier job to access. Thoughts?

Do I have to address the rear heater at this point or can I come back later?

What else should I do? The car runs very well and on a recent trip to Richmond returned 13.8mpg.

The engine wiring harness at the EGR area looks fine, no sign of heat damage. Do I add heat wrap?

Do I leave the fuel injectors alone? or just say at 234k miles they ought to be cleaned and tested.

Only two of the original Toyota transmission hoses were available, I am following a thread that suggests Gates has good options and Belmetric has the clamps. It looks like I need to pull the radiator and headlights to get at the transmission hoses. Anything else I should do while there?

New windshield molding coming, but need help in finding someone to do the work correctly and address any rust that may be lurking from a replacement done 5 years ago. This should be the last of the body related work.

I will do the rear bearings. No record of any service, but no obvious issues either. Parts are on order.

My "budget" is not unlimited, but to the extent I do the work I can manage. I am probably going to push out the Birfields or interior at this point as the Harmonic Balancer was an $800 surprise.

 

[60 toy ota]

Looks like this has been a well cared for rig and you are on top of things. Nice! I won't speak to the body stuff as that's not so much my wheelhouse, but on the mechanical side I like your plan and would suggest the following:

I wouldn't worry about the birfields unless you can hear a clicking with the steering at full stop under heavy acceleration.
I would definitely wrap the harness by the EGR while you've got the intake manifold off.
I think you would notice an improvement with power/smooth operating and maybe mileage if you were to rebuild the injectors, but that said, if you're happy with the current performance then good enough is good enough.
Take a look at the condition of the rear heater lines, both metal and rubber. if either concern you, you can bypass the whole thing with some (ok, a lot) of heater hose and retain functionality.
Partsouq is an amazing resource for part numbers and OEM parts at an incredible price, so long as they are easily shippable as they will be coming from Dubai. I let my wishlist build because the shipping is cheaper per part when bundled. If it's a bigger piece that makes shipping unfeasible, I go to Serra Decatur Toyota, best priced parts I've been able to find stateside and shipping is free for $75+ orders. They also have good customer service.
very glad to hear you plan on addressing the transmission soft lines at the radiator.

 

[BTLSHP]

I have split two orders between Partsouq and Amayana to get a feel for delivery... Seems Partsouq is a bit faster thus far. But, yes, either way the pricing is attractive enough that I stick to Toyota parts.

The rear heater hard lines are pretty crusty with rust. So, my debate is running Gates rubber from the engine area in a continuous run to the heater. Or, is there something to be gained by replacing the rearmost section of hardline with the original? I tend to like the idea of ripping four connectors....

I cleaned the Birfields of 30 years of dirt roads, filled them and will keep and eye on them for the next few months. I am happy to pass on that job. I will do the rear bearings just because I can do the job an my daughter probably does not want to.

I think the injectors are a good idea...

 

[ajax1]

I would bypass the rear heater, you won’t need it in Colorado unless some thing is wrong with the main heater.

 

[BTLSHP]

I would bypass the rear heater, you won’t need it in Colorado unless some thing is wrong with the main heater.

That option remains on my mind, the original owner is not that thrilled by the idea.

 

[sjpitts]

First, you are clearly a good Father and Grandfather. And I approve of your plan to fix everything up before you transfer it to your grandfather. Anything you do will be done cheaper and better.

And I think anything that we can do to encourage our children not to take on massive debts buying expensive new cars is a plus. I think more intelligent young people are broke because of expensive cars than just about anything else.

I have already found one nice LC for a daughter and son-in-law, and I hope to find another one for another daughter-- before they rush out and spend 50k on a new TRD Rav4.

Finally, I would say that it would time well spent to find a local mechanic for your granddaughter to use when the 80 becomes hers-- one with a good reputation and knowledgable about 80 series. And even offer to pay for the first oil change through that mechanic just to establish the relationship.

Jared

 

[BTLSHP]

First, you are clearly a good Father and Grandfather. And I approve of your plan to fix everything up before you transfer it to your grandfather. Anything you do will be done cheaper and better.

And I think anything that we can do to encourage our children not to take on massive debts buying expensive new cars is a plus. I think more intelligent young people are broke because of expensive cars than just about anything else.

I have already found one nice LC for a daughter and son-in-law, and I hope to find another one for another daughter-- before they rush out and spend 50k on a new TRD Rav4.

Finally, I would say that it would time well spent to find a local mechanic for your granddaughter to use when the 80 becomes hers-- one with a good reputation and knowledgable about 80 series. And even offer to pay for the first oil change through that mechanic just to establish the relationship.

Jared

Yes, I am not clear on the precise transfer date. It means a 90-year old has to acknowledge he is not longer driving which is mostly the case now anyway. So, I will do what I plan and rive it around DC a bit to ensure all is well. It is a great city car, nobody messes with you.

At that point, I will be on here looking for someone in the North West Denver area to pick up the ball.... I figure there are many of these in that area already so it should get good support

 

[BTLSHP]

This is the back of the truck as of a month ago. I had the spare tire carrier out and took it and the brackets down to bare metal and then primed and painted them with Rustoleum. I also did the frame rails in roughly the area of the brackets. I read a post by Kernal on his work cleaning and painting, I admire his effort but probably can't replicate.

I am pretty much limited to hand tools and 18v battery tools, but I have slugs of time. The dirt is mostly off at this point. The body panels look fine.

- Do I brush off the loose rust and just plan on treating with Fluid Film or Surface Shield? The parking brake mechanism out at the wheels was replaced two cars ago and is rust free. Seems to me I should clean up the arm on the left side of the diff.

- How much more should I do around here? It is going to Denver,CO and will be garaged again.

We are going to pull the windshield and get any issues addressed and get it reinstalled properly with new molding and sealant per the FSM as soon as we can find someone around here.

There is an area of rust on the passenger inner wheel liner around the forward bolt to the air cleaner, I do not have an immediate plan for it. I have mostly cleaned the loose stuff off and spray with Fluid Film for the time being.

 

[cartercd]

This rig already looks like it is in good condition, and all the plans you have in the near future will make it very reliable ride (for a 30-year old rig)
- You didn't mention if the radiator has been replaced. It looks like it has (the plastic tank turns a brownish color after about 15 years, yours looks black). If it has not been replaced, it is a ticking time bomb at this point
- The radiator does not need to be removed to replace the transmission coolant lines. I think you already found this post, but if not: Transmission hose replacement using non-OEM parts - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transmission-hose-replacement-using-non-oem-parts.1241866/
- I am surprised if you are still on the original starter. There is a repair to replace the plunger and starter if it acts up, but that seems to just prolong the inevitable death.
- I personally would do the birfields and replace the wheel/trunnion bearings.
- Replace fuel filter while you are in there
- I would look at all the rubber exhaust mounts - if they have never been replaced they are likely cracked, which can lead to rattling.
Another nice gift for your granddaughter would be a AAA membership. Despite your best efforts to provide a reliable ride, any vehicle that is three decades old with 233K miles will have failure points that you can't reliably predict.

 

[BTLSHP]

This rig already looks like it is in good condition, and all the plans you have in the near future will make it very reliable ride (for a 30-year old rig)
- You didn't mention if the radiator has been replaced. It looks like it has (the plastic tank turns a brownish color after about 15 years, yours looks black). If it has not been replaced, it is a ticking time bomb at this point
- The radiator does not need to be removed to replace the transmission coolant lines. I think you already found this post, but if not: Transmission hose replacement using non-OEM parts - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transmission-hose-replacement-using-non-oem-parts.1241866/
- I am surprised if you are still on the original starter. There is a repair to replace the plunger and starter if it acts up, but that seems to just prolong the inevitable death.
- I personally would do the birfields and replace the wheel/trunnion bearings.
- Replace fuel filter while you are in there
- I would look at all the rubber exhaust mounts - if they have never been replaced they are likely cracked, which can lead to rattling.
Another nice gift for your granddaughter would be a AAA membership. Despite your best efforts to provide a reliable ride, any vehicle that is three decades old with 233K miles will have failure points that you can't reliably predict.

Thanks,
Per the records, the radiator was replaced after an incident with a deer in 2012 - the same time the ARB bumper went on. The starter was done at 176,000 miles, I was wondering about the plunger kit since it looks like I am taking the starter out for other things anyway, but have not done anything. Fuel filter was one two years ago via the relieving the lower tab method.

I bought a rear bearing kit as there is no service record for them at all. My thoughts are this would be good "practice" as well as pm. If I do not need the actual bearings, I will save them for the front. Bolts for the trunnion bearings were are all at 71ish when I check them and I left them at 71 with paint marks. I am beginning to think I can handle this job - I have watched the OTRAMM videos.

The rubber exhaust mounts are a great idea, I will look at the existing ones tomorrow. I looked at the parts list, I assume these are what are referred to as "cushions" on the parts diagrams and they will require new bolts as well.

That thread on the Transmission Lines is the one I had picked out to follow. Fleet Pride in the area has all the Gates lines.

She has AAA already, too much of her travel is to places like Joe's Valley UT to be without. The co-owner of her business also runs an area Audi facility and will pitch in now and then. I have an Audi, not certain there is much overlap....

Parts are starting to show up...Then I need to take it offline for a couple of weeks. August may fit that bill.

 

[mudgudgeon]

The rubber exhaust mounts are a great idea, I will look at the existing ones tomorrow. I looked at the parts list, I assume these are what are referred to as "cushions" on the parts diagrams and they will require new bolts as well.

The bolts are part of the cushion. It's rubber vulcanised between two steel plates with studs attached.
Nuts are included, at least, they are with aftermarket ones I've bought, and I think with oem too

 

[Godwin]

I suggest you replace all of the suspension and steering bushings. I did this last year and it's big job but with the age of the rubber it will improve steering and ride. This is a list of everything I replaced, bushings, bolts, nuts, etc. and the cost was under $500 from Partsouq.

80 series bushings
front axle arm	part number	number	cost	total
bushing	4870260050​	4​	26.16​	104.64​
bushing	4806160010​	2​	26.35​	52.7​
bolt	9011916003​	4​	2.93​	11.72​
nut	9017916015​	4​	1.04​	4.16​
bolt	9010518006​	2​	4.18​	8.36​
wahser	9020119011​	2​	1.21​	2.42​
nut	9017018007​	2​	0.9​	1.8​
lateral arm
bushing	4870660030​	2​	14.69​	29.38​
bolt	9011916003​	2​	2.93​	5.86​
nut	9017916015​	2​	1.04​	2.08​
rear lateral
bushing	4870660040​	1​	14.04​	14.04​
bolt	9011918001​	1​	4.05​	4.05​
bolt	9010518007​	1​	5.11​	5.11​
wahser	9020119011​	1​	1.21​	1.21​
nut	9017018007​	1​	0.9​	0.9​
rear locating arm
bushing	4870260040​	2​	29.65​	59.3​
bolt	9010518006​	4​	4.18​	16.72​
wahser	9020119011​	4​	1.21​	4.84​
nut	9017018007​	4​	0.9​	3.6​
torque arm
bushing	4870260031​	2​	28.14​	56.28​
bolt	9010518006​	4​	4.18​	16.72​
wahser	9020119011​	4​	1.21​	4.84​
nut	9017018007​	4​	0.9​	3.6​
sway bar
bushing	9038511021​	4​	1.07​	4.28​
Front stablizer D bushing	4881560070​	2​	6.09​	12.18​
Rear stabilizer D bushing	4881526020​	2​	4.4​	8.8​
LINK SUB-ASSY, FRONT STABILIZER	4880260120​	2​
CUSHION, FRONT STABILIZER	4881730010​	4​
total				439.59​

 

[BTLSHP]

Jim Goodwin,

Ugh, you may be right. I will see what has been done through the years. -If any.

Thanks for the parts list, that is worth a lot to me.

 

[BTLSHP]

So, per Cartercd's suggestion, I want under the car to take a look at the exhaust cushions. I am guessing I found an issue. This is taken from the rear looking towards the front. There is a triangular bracket extending out from the frame but doing nothing but looking pretty.....I did not see anything up front either.

Any suggestions? New muffler?