Land Cruiser freshening
We have a 1994 FZJ80 with 232,000 miles on it. It is in what I term a “semi-retired” condition being driven under 17,000 miles over the last 7 years. It has been on a 3,000 miles OCI (1x annual) since new and largely maintained per the manual plus what I call break fixes. I have all the records and receipts.
Prior to then it made almost weekly trips to West Virginia of 140 miles each way. The last four miles were split between a good gravel road and road deliberately maintained to look and be difficult to drive. In winter this meant chains on all four wheels.
It has only towed a light load once DC to Atlanta, but used frequently to drag tree trunks for cutting into firewood.
Until 6 years ago it was garaged nightly.
We are planning to transition the car to the owner’s grand-daughter. She is very active outdoors and has garage space available. This will not happen for one to two years, so we have time to address real and potential issues. She lives in Denver. We did this once before with a Subaru Forrester – I immediately developed leaks in the brake hardlines. I would like to avoid a repeat.
Here is what is on my mind, but I am looking for input:
Rust:
The car was looked over extensively for major rust 4 years ago. There were two areas in the front fender zone addressed by a good body shop and something called POR15. The running boards and brackets were done at the same time with POR15.
The rest of the rust underneath was surface rust. We will inspect again and possibly coat key areas with Fluid Film or Boeshield T-9? (preferences?)
I do see a spot forming under one of the legs for the air cleaner on the fender. For the time being, I being I hit it with Fluid Film.
I pulled the four “corners” of the factory roof rack and found no rust and the rivnuts were secure. I will not lift the runners on the roof top until I have a firm game plan for what to do if disaster strikes.
Emissions:
We have the dreaded CEL 71, I am reading the saga’s on this site and will get after it.
Brakes:
Replace the major vacuum hose on the drum.
Replace pads and rotors all around as well as flush fluid.
Replace the flexible hoses at all four corners.
Re-pack front bearings (done every 30k miles).
Birfield joints have never been done. I do not know how to check for the need. Grease has been added periodically and for the last three years checked at every oil change. The front diff has not lost a meaningful amount of fluid either to my knowledge. (any other tests?)
Cooling system
Car has never overheated to our knowledge. We did the PHH 6 months ago plus a couple of small hoses coming out of the firewall in the area of the “T.” There was a small leak in the system that had the cord on these hoses sweating. On a recent 700 mile trip the coolant level remained stable.
My inclination is towards replacing every coolant hose in the system and I have found a good diagram on this site. I am a bit worried about the rear heater hoses, but would prefer to keep the rear heater in functional condition. From what I read Gates Green Stripe is a good solution.
Suspension
Tie-rod ends were done at 216k miles
Shocks/Springs were replaced with an Old Man Emu kit as part of putting on an ARB bumper at 184k miles.
Power steering appears leak free and I replaced the fluid 2 years ago.
I am thinking about doing sway bar bushings just because.
Fuel lines
We had a problem recently that wound up being the oil pressure sensor. Guages showed pressure to be well inside Mr. T’s guidance. Consumption has been nil, but we have a change due in 1,000 miles.
The owner will replace the leather interior and seat cushions, he has wanted an excuse to do this for over a year. We have a good local shop and will use either Katzkin or LCH leathers.
Replace vacuum lines – major and minor.
I would appreciate some recommendations here. The Toyota Dealers around here offer no discounts online, I do use a Lexus dealer currently for 20% off but the LX450 started in 1995 and so I am aware there is not 100% compatibility. I am happy to keep business within the community, but I plainly admit to choking a bit on $60 for a brake hose. I am happy to use Denso or Asin, but I am not a Dorman guy.
We have a 1994 FZJ80 with 232,000 miles on it. It is in what I term a “semi-retired” condition being driven under 17,000 miles over the last 7 years. It has been on a 3,000 miles OCI (1x annual) since new and largely maintained per the manual plus what I call break fixes. I have all the records and receipts.
Prior to then it made almost weekly trips to West Virginia of 140 miles each way. The last four miles were split between a good gravel road and road deliberately maintained to look and be difficult to drive. In winter this meant chains on all four wheels.
It has only towed a light load once DC to Atlanta, but used frequently to drag tree trunks for cutting into firewood.
Until 6 years ago it was garaged nightly.
We are planning to transition the car to the owner’s grand-daughter. She is very active outdoors and has garage space available. This will not happen for one to two years, so we have time to address real and potential issues. She lives in Denver. We did this once before with a Subaru Forrester – I immediately developed leaks in the brake hardlines. I would like to avoid a repeat.
Here is what is on my mind, but I am looking for input:
Rust:
The car was looked over extensively for major rust 4 years ago. There were two areas in the front fender zone addressed by a good body shop and something called POR15. The running boards and brackets were done at the same time with POR15.
The rest of the rust underneath was surface rust. We will inspect again and possibly coat key areas with Fluid Film or Boeshield T-9? (preferences?)
I do see a spot forming under one of the legs for the air cleaner on the fender. For the time being, I being I hit it with Fluid Film.
I pulled the four “corners” of the factory roof rack and found no rust and the rivnuts were secure. I will not lift the runners on the roof top until I have a firm game plan for what to do if disaster strikes.
Emissions:
We have the dreaded CEL 71, I am reading the saga’s on this site and will get after it.
Brakes:
Replace the major vacuum hose on the drum.
Replace pads and rotors all around as well as flush fluid.
Replace the flexible hoses at all four corners.
Re-pack front bearings (done every 30k miles).
Birfield joints have never been done. I do not know how to check for the need. Grease has been added periodically and for the last three years checked at every oil change. The front diff has not lost a meaningful amount of fluid either to my knowledge. (any other tests?)
Cooling system
Car has never overheated to our knowledge. We did the PHH 6 months ago plus a couple of small hoses coming out of the firewall in the area of the “T.” There was a small leak in the system that had the cord on these hoses sweating. On a recent 700 mile trip the coolant level remained stable.
My inclination is towards replacing every coolant hose in the system and I have found a good diagram on this site. I am a bit worried about the rear heater hoses, but would prefer to keep the rear heater in functional condition. From what I read Gates Green Stripe is a good solution.
Suspension
Tie-rod ends were done at 216k miles
Shocks/Springs were replaced with an Old Man Emu kit as part of putting on an ARB bumper at 184k miles.
Power steering appears leak free and I replaced the fluid 2 years ago.
I am thinking about doing sway bar bushings just because.
Fuel lines
We had a leak in the long return line recently and it was replaced. I also bought the short section (95334-06010) that connects to the fuel pressure regulator but I have no idea where it goes it must be under the top half of the intake manifold. Can it be done without removing the manifold?
I am not certain I care about the EVAP lines, I will replace the high pressure inlet side from the filter to the fuel rail itself. Any other fuel related hoses that should be replaced? I lack a diagram with the clarity of the coolant lines.
Oil
We had a problem recently that wound up being the oil pressure sensor. Guages showed pressure to be well inside Mr. T’s guidance. Consumption has been nil, but we have a change due in 1,000 miles.
The front crankshaft seal and filter housing gasket were done 2 years ago, belts were replaced at that time.
The valve cover gasket was done at 177k miles and seems leak free.
Interior:
The owner will replace the leather interior and seat cushions, he has wanted an excuse to do this for over a year. We have a good local shop and will use either Katzkin or LCH leathers.
There are no signs of headliner leaks. Driving in a super heavy rain recently did reveal a drip at the passenger A-pillar. Source is unknown, I cleaned out sunroof drains and have not been able to replicate in rain or with a hose. I did find some gunk in the drip rail along the windshield and cleaned it all out best as I could.
The dash has a tiny 3 legged tear with each “leg” under 3/8.” My temptation is to gently lift each corner and put some E-6000 or Crazy Glue under. Good idea/Bad idea?
Misc:
Wheels need new clear coat. Can I save money and do it myself with a 2-stage rattle can product from Eastwood?
Replace vacuum lines – major and minor.
Exhaust downpipes done at 216k miles as part of Maryland Inspection.
Tires and battery are less than 6-months old, parking brake has been re-built.
Plugs, Distributor Cap/Rotor and wires are newish I do not seem to find the receipt for that work.
Air intake hose was like concrete, I replaced it two months ago.
Parts:
I would appreciate some recommendations here. The Toyota Dealers around here offer no discounts online, I do use a Lexus dealer currently for 20% off but the LX450 started in 1995 and so I am aware there is not 100% compatibility. I am happy to keep business within the community, but I plainly admit to choking a bit on $60 for a brake hose. I am happy to use Denso or Asin, but I am not a Dorman guy.
I am not nearly the mechanic many of you are, I marvel at what some of you tackle. I think I am mostly competent to replace hoses and bits. I did recently pull the front head from my Lexus and send it out for an overhaul without incident.
I would appreciate any guidance and thoughts.
