- Thread starter
- #141
That is cool man
I can't find anyone that sells a frame mounted bump stop for the front
This would be cool too.
Or a ajustable one with mini shock
FOR 3.5" lift install
- Thread starter NorCalSam
- Start date
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That is cool man
I can't find anyone that sells a frame mounted bump stop for the front
This would be cool too.
Or a ajustable one with mini shock
That was me.. if you aren't running any bump stop other than the cone (my stock bumpstops had split and there was less than 1/3rd left of them) then it's very possible to duplicate.
Expensive mistake.
That is cool man
I can't find anyone that sells a frame mounted bump stop for the front
This would be cool too.
Or a ajustable one with mini shock
If you know what you want you might be able to find some rear blocks that will fit your needs. You would have to elongate the holes on one end as they are spaced differently for the rears.
- Thread starter
- #144
Heavy road and trail test
I put a lot of weight in the truck enough for a week overland trip with kids:
like I said before FOR at the time had two springs to choose from for the rear a 3” and a 3.5” spring, I chose the 3.5” spring because of the weigh I carry. For the front he had the 3, 3.5, and the 4” spring, again do to the weigh factor I decided to try the 4” spring and use ½ packers in the rear at the time I did not realize that the OME packers would not work with the spring design. The spring is not flat at the end and therefore the packer is smashed in one spot down to maybe 3/16 or so. They are also tearing and will not last. With the normal FOR setup you should be between a ¼ to ½” taller in the rear I am flat or level front and rear. This puts me at a disadvantage right away and is not going to work. I think most people don’t carry this much stuff and kids.
For the Moab trip we had about 750+ lbs of gear and kids on or in the truck, if you counted Tree and I that would be about 1080lbs!!! Way too much s#%t!
For the test I loaded the truck with an estimated 550lbs of gear + the kids thats about 660lbs. not counting us up front to simulate a week + overland trip. No…I did not weigh anything, I don’t have a scale, but I would say that about haft of the items I am 100% accurate on because ether the weight was listed on it or I with a little research could find out. The other ½ of the stuff I would call an educated guess. And I’d say that any of you that have weighed there stuff or figured the gear like this that the little stuff adds up quickly. So if you don’t need it, don’t bring it.
Ok. Back to how the truck did. I took accurate measurements of all for corners in the same place on level ground before and after in was loaded. The front only lost about a 1/4” but the back had a sag of an 1 1/8” to 1 ¼ “ on one side for the truck when unloaded seems to set about ¼ lower on the drivers side where the fuel tank and spare tire are, even though when looking at it, it appears to be level. The on road behavior was very good to say the least. Having the right castor thanks to Landtank and a good set of springs and shocks makes a huge difference. We drove some very windy stuff and same highway stuff too all felt really good as we thought it would based off of what we have seen so far from the kit. It was truly a night and day difference from the OME 2.5” HD kit we had.
Off-Road we took the cruiser thru mostly easily to moderate stuff I’d say most of the trails were a 2 to 3+ difficultly. There was two or three very rocky 3+ spots, the type of stuff or trail that if you had a stock or nearly stock tuck it could be very challenging with the possibility of body damage if you didn’t get the tire placement just right. With our setup however running 35s and available lockers was pretty much point and shoot. The 35s are cool, they make big rocks look small and it does change your whole plan of attack. It seemed to make easy carefree work for some otherwise nasty sections of the trail. Even with the weigh handy cap the truck and Teresa did very well, having lockers in the pocket did hurt ether. The rear suspension did bottom out a few times. But I felt that just a ½” and a little more resistance would have prevented most of if not all of it.
This test clearly shows that the front springs did great but the rears like the OME HDs were forced out of the operating range maybe not as much and they retained there good driving manners but they were not holding up. Now with other springs that are heat rolled not cold rolled this would be very bad for the springs but with the cold rolled spring there going to have much more memory and resilience over time but the question is how much more? I don’t what to find out with my money.
I talked to Frankie today and gave him the numbers and feedback and he is looking into getting me a rear spring that will be longer and set the rear end about 1/2” taller then the front. He is going to run the numbers and talk to the spring company on this. Also he now has front springs in ¼” increments from 3” to 4” so one thing I could do is go down a ¼” in the front too, if I want to. He is really working hard to figure all this stuff out and be able to provide tailor made kits to people with the highest quality springs and that people are happy with.
There was also some future stuff that I can’t talk about right now.;p
Oh 35s and a lot of s#*t with 4:10 gears sucks!
Truck is getting 4:88 right now.
Cheers for now
Sam
I put a lot of weight in the truck enough for a week overland trip with kids:
like I said before FOR at the time had two springs to choose from for the rear a 3” and a 3.5” spring, I chose the 3.5” spring because of the weigh I carry. For the front he had the 3, 3.5, and the 4” spring, again do to the weigh factor I decided to try the 4” spring and use ½ packers in the rear at the time I did not realize that the OME packers would not work with the spring design. The spring is not flat at the end and therefore the packer is smashed in one spot down to maybe 3/16 or so. They are also tearing and will not last. With the normal FOR setup you should be between a ¼ to ½” taller in the rear I am flat or level front and rear. This puts me at a disadvantage right away and is not going to work. I think most people don’t carry this much stuff and kids.
For the Moab trip we had about 750+ lbs of gear and kids on or in the truck, if you counted Tree and I that would be about 1080lbs!!! Way too much s#%t!
For the test I loaded the truck with an estimated 550lbs of gear + the kids thats about 660lbs. not counting us up front to simulate a week + overland trip. No…I did not weigh anything, I don’t have a scale, but I would say that about haft of the items I am 100% accurate on because ether the weight was listed on it or I with a little research could find out. The other ½ of the stuff I would call an educated guess. And I’d say that any of you that have weighed there stuff or figured the gear like this that the little stuff adds up quickly. So if you don’t need it, don’t bring it.
Ok. Back to how the truck did. I took accurate measurements of all for corners in the same place on level ground before and after in was loaded. The front only lost about a 1/4” but the back had a sag of an 1 1/8” to 1 ¼ “ on one side for the truck when unloaded seems to set about ¼ lower on the drivers side where the fuel tank and spare tire are, even though when looking at it, it appears to be level. The on road behavior was very good to say the least. Having the right castor thanks to Landtank and a good set of springs and shocks makes a huge difference. We drove some very windy stuff and same highway stuff too all felt really good as we thought it would based off of what we have seen so far from the kit. It was truly a night and day difference from the OME 2.5” HD kit we had.
Off-Road we took the cruiser thru mostly easily to moderate stuff I’d say most of the trails were a 2 to 3+ difficultly. There was two or three very rocky 3+ spots, the type of stuff or trail that if you had a stock or nearly stock tuck it could be very challenging with the possibility of body damage if you didn’t get the tire placement just right. With our setup however running 35s and available lockers was pretty much point and shoot. The 35s are cool, they make big rocks look small and it does change your whole plan of attack. It seemed to make easy carefree work for some otherwise nasty sections of the trail. Even with the weigh handy cap the truck and Teresa did very well, having lockers in the pocket did hurt ether. The rear suspension did bottom out a few times. But I felt that just a ½” and a little more resistance would have prevented most of if not all of it.
This test clearly shows that the front springs did great but the rears like the OME HDs were forced out of the operating range maybe not as much and they retained there good driving manners but they were not holding up. Now with other springs that are heat rolled not cold rolled this would be very bad for the springs but with the cold rolled spring there going to have much more memory and resilience over time but the question is how much more? I don’t what to find out with my money.
I talked to Frankie today and gave him the numbers and feedback and he is looking into getting me a rear spring that will be longer and set the rear end about 1/2” taller then the front. He is going to run the numbers and talk to the spring company on this. Also he now has front springs in ¼” increments from 3” to 4” so one thing I could do is go down a ¼” in the front too, if I want to. He is really working hard to figure all this stuff out and be able to provide tailor made kits to people with the highest quality springs and that people are happy with.
There was also some future stuff that I can’t talk about right now.;p
Oh 35s and a lot of s#*t with 4:10 gears sucks!
Truck is getting 4:88 right now.
Cheers for now
Sam
great feedback. Thanks for that.
It does sound like Frankie is really trying to get this thing right. Especially considering how many anal retentive folks there are on this board.
It does sound like Frankie is really trying to get this thing right. Especially considering how many anal retentive folks there are on this board.
- Thread starter
- #147
Sorry Ken, hows this?
Heavy road and trail test
I put a lot of weight in the truck enough for a week overland trip with kids:
like I said before FOR at the time had two springs to choose from for the rear a 3” and a 3.5” spring, I chose the 3.5” spring because of the weigh I carry. For the front he had the 3, 3.5, and the 4” spring, again do to the weigh factor I decided to try the 4” spring and use ½ packers in the rear at the time I did not realize that the OME packers would not work with the spring design. The spring is not flat at the end and therefore the packer is smashed in one spot down to maybe 3/16 or so. They are also tearing and will not last. With the normal FOR setup you should be between a ¼ to ½” taller in the rear I am flat or level front and rear. This puts me at a disadvantage right away and is not going to work. I think most people don’t carry this much stuff and kids.
For the Moab trip we had about 750+ lbs of gear and kids on or in the truck, if you counted Tree and I that would be about 1080lbs!!! Way too much s#%t!
For the test I loaded the truck with an estimated 550lbs of gear + the kids thats about 660lbs. not counting us up front to simulate a week + overland trip. No…I did not weigh anything, I don’t have a scale, but I would say that about haft of the items I am 100% accurate on because ether the weight was listed on it or I with a little research could find out. The other ½ of the stuff I would call an educated guess. And I’d say that any of you that have weighed there stuff or figured the gear like this that the little stuff adds up quickly. So if you don’t need it, don’t bring it.
Ok. Back to how the truck did. I took accurate measurements of all for corners in the same place on level ground before and after in was loaded. The front only lost about a 1/4” but the back had a sag of an 1 1/8” to 1 ¼ “ on one side for the truck when unloaded seems to set about ¼ lower on the drivers side where the fuel tank and spare tire are, even though when looking at it, it appears to be level. The on road behavior was very good to say the least. Having the right castor thanks to Landtank and a good set of springs and shocks makes a huge difference. We drove some very windy stuff and same highway stuff too all felt really good as we thought it would based off of what we have seen so far from the kit. It was truly a night and day difference from the OME 2.5” HD kit we had.
Off-Road we took the cruiser thru mostly easily to moderate stuff I’d say most of the trails were a 2 to 3+ difficultly. There was two or three very rocky 3+ spots, the type of stuff or trail that if you had a stock or nearly stock tuck it could be very challenging with the possibility of body damage if you didn’t get the tire placement just right. With our setup however running 35s and available lockers was pretty much point and shoot. The 35s are cool, they make big rocks look small and it does change your whole plan of attack. It seemed to make easy carefree work for some otherwise nasty sections of the trail. Even with the weigh handy cap the truck and Teresa did very well, having lockers in the pocket did hurt ether. The rear suspension did bottom out a few times. But I felt that just a ½” and a little more resistance would have prevented most of if not all of it.
This test clearly shows that the front springs did great but the rears like the OME HDs were forced out of the operating range maybe not as much and they retained there good driving manners but they were not holding up. Now with other springs that are heat rolled not cold rolled this would be very bad for the springs but with the cold rolled spring there going to have much more memory and resilience over time but the question is how much more? I don’t what to find out with my money.
I talked to Frankie today and gave him the numbers and feedback and he is looking into getting me a rear spring that will be longer and set the rear end about 1/2” taller then the front. He is going to run the numbers and talk to the spring company on this. Also he now has front springs in ¼” increments from 3” to 4” so one thing I could do is go down a ¼” in the front too, if I want to. He is really working hard to figure all this stuff out and be able to provide tailor made kits to people with the highest quality springs and that people are happy with.
There was also some future stuff that I can’t talk about right now.;p
Oh 35s and a lot of s#*t with 4:10 gears sucks!
Truck is getting 4:88 right now.
Cheers for now
Sam
Heavy road and trail test
I put a lot of weight in the truck enough for a week overland trip with kids:
like I said before FOR at the time had two springs to choose from for the rear a 3” and a 3.5” spring, I chose the 3.5” spring because of the weigh I carry. For the front he had the 3, 3.5, and the 4” spring, again do to the weigh factor I decided to try the 4” spring and use ½ packers in the rear at the time I did not realize that the OME packers would not work with the spring design. The spring is not flat at the end and therefore the packer is smashed in one spot down to maybe 3/16 or so. They are also tearing and will not last. With the normal FOR setup you should be between a ¼ to ½” taller in the rear I am flat or level front and rear. This puts me at a disadvantage right away and is not going to work. I think most people don’t carry this much stuff and kids.
For the Moab trip we had about 750+ lbs of gear and kids on or in the truck, if you counted Tree and I that would be about 1080lbs!!! Way too much s#%t!
For the test I loaded the truck with an estimated 550lbs of gear + the kids thats about 660lbs. not counting us up front to simulate a week + overland trip. No…I did not weigh anything, I don’t have a scale, but I would say that about haft of the items I am 100% accurate on because ether the weight was listed on it or I with a little research could find out. The other ½ of the stuff I would call an educated guess. And I’d say that any of you that have weighed there stuff or figured the gear like this that the little stuff adds up quickly. So if you don’t need it, don’t bring it.
Ok. Back to how the truck did. I took accurate measurements of all for corners in the same place on level ground before and after in was loaded. The front only lost about a 1/4” but the back had a sag of an 1 1/8” to 1 ¼ “ on one side for the truck when unloaded seems to set about ¼ lower on the drivers side where the fuel tank and spare tire are, even though when looking at it, it appears to be level. The on road behavior was very good to say the least. Having the right castor thanks to Landtank and a good set of springs and shocks makes a huge difference. We drove some very windy stuff and same highway stuff too all felt really good as we thought it would based off of what we have seen so far from the kit. It was truly a night and day difference from the OME 2.5” HD kit we had.
Off-Road we took the cruiser thru mostly easily to moderate stuff I’d say most of the trails were a 2 to 3+ difficultly. There was two or three very rocky 3+ spots, the type of stuff or trail that if you had a stock or nearly stock tuck it could be very challenging with the possibility of body damage if you didn’t get the tire placement just right. With our setup however running 35s and available lockers was pretty much point and shoot. The 35s are cool, they make big rocks look small and it does change your whole plan of attack. It seemed to make easy carefree work for some otherwise nasty sections of the trail. Even with the weigh handy cap the truck and Teresa did very well, having lockers in the pocket did hurt ether. The rear suspension did bottom out a few times. But I felt that just a ½” and a little more resistance would have prevented most of if not all of it.
This test clearly shows that the front springs did great but the rears like the OME HDs were forced out of the operating range maybe not as much and they retained there good driving manners but they were not holding up. Now with other springs that are heat rolled not cold rolled this would be very bad for the springs but with the cold rolled spring there going to have much more memory and resilience over time but the question is how much more? I don’t what to find out with my money.
I talked to Frankie today and gave him the numbers and feedback and he is looking into getting me a rear spring that will be longer and set the rear end about 1/2” taller then the front. He is going to run the numbers and talk to the spring company on this. Also he now has front springs in ¼” increments from 3” to 4” so one thing I could do is go down a ¼” in the front too, if I want to. He is really working hard to figure all this stuff out and be able to provide tailor made kits to people with the highest quality springs and that people are happy with.
There was also some future stuff that I can’t talk about right now.;p
Oh 35s and a lot of s#*t with 4:10 gears sucks!
Truck is getting 4:88 right now.
Cheers for now
Sam
- Thread starter
- #149
We now have 4.88s broke in already too and the differance is just amazing. I mean its not like we added boost or something but have the right gears makes all the diff in the world. We never had the right gearing, when we bought the truck it had 33s stuffed under it and we lifted it right away. I didn't even like the 33s with the 4.10s with 35s it just was not going to work for me. The feel, power, and shifting all so much better now. The truck just gets better every day.
Christo called last week and said that the flange was not 90* to the shaft. So that most likely was the cause of the front vibration.
Just my luck, to get a bad shaft.
I got my gears done for less then it would have cost me to buy the parts and pay to have the 3rd members done. Thats not including the time and such. But they jacked up my new ABS harness there fixing that and got a big glob of used grease on the sheep skin seat cover.
Sam
Christo called last week and said that the flange was not 90* to the shaft. So that most likely was the cause of the front vibration.
Just my luck, to get a bad shaft.
I got my gears done for less then it would have cost me to buy the parts and pay to have the 3rd members done. Thats not including the time and such. But they jacked up my new ABS harness there fixing that and got a big glob of used grease on the sheep skin seat cover.
Sam
be sure to correct the speedo as that will further improve the shifting of the tranny.
- Thread starter
- #151
Sorry to get off topic with bumpstop spacers, but I just read the last couple of pages tonight. Could you just add a metal spacer to the bottom on top of the perch instead of spacing the bumpstop itself. this way it would be more in line when the axles compress. The only problem that I see is that it might be hard to take on and off the spring so you might want to make it bolt on and just put the spacer inside the coil before you install it. Here is a picture that someone posted that I edited with my idea. The green being the spacer on top of the spring perch.
I used the truespeed device but if you don't run two different tire sizes just get the yellow box. Romer has a nice thread detailing the install and which one to order.
So glad to hear it Sam.
I'd like to point out here that even though this new shaft has fixed your vibs, if the old rear shaft was still in there you would still probably have some. It is real important that everyone realize the importance of having TWO good drive shafts. And before bolting on a lift you need to thoroughly evaluate them.
I'd like to point out here that even though this new shaft has fixed your vibs, if the old rear shaft was still in there you would still probably have some. It is real important that everyone realize the importance of having TWO good drive shafts. And before bolting on a lift you need to thoroughly evaluate them.
- Thread starter
- #157
Landtank's Castor Plates, Slee Front DC shaft, Slee Front and Rear adjustable track bars or panhards.
- Thread starter
- #158
I wanted to let all that are interested know in all farness to Frankie and Frankies Off-Road. I am not the average or typical 80 owner with the typical wants and needs.
F.O.R. has a 3” kit right now that Frankie feels is “dialed in” and people will love this kit. This is the highest quality and biggest band for you buck lift kit on the market today.
They are also selling a 3.5”+ version for those of you that have clearance (run tire chains etc.) concerns and or just want or need more height. This kit when combined with other parts from venders like Slee Off-Road and Landtank is a great choice too, if you have the money and patents to venture into “no mans land.”
Frankie is selling a concept of 35s tires, low center of gravity and higher quality parts ie shocks and springs. He should be commended not criticized for not providing parts that one might want that other good venders already sell such as castor plates, track bars and drive shafts. Its just good business, this way one can pick and chose what they want and when they get it. Plus it puts the highest quality spring and shock platform in there hands for less money and also he’s not producing products that others already have there for stealing bread from there table. Instead he helps these venders by recommending them to his clients.
IMHO anyone that wants a 3 to 4” lift and is not considering FOR is making a big mistake. It’s a great base system with quality parts. It has a good center of gravity. Good seat of the pants feel and the shock adapters open you up to a whole new word of better performing higher quality shocks. Not to mention the fact that his springs seem to have a higher tolerance or wider range of comfortable and performance in light to heavy trucks that other spring/shock combo simply don’t seem to have. 80 to 90% would love this kit I am a lot heavier then must so I’m pushing things a lot more than most. I want a custom setup that works for us.
I wrongfully selected his 4” front spring and thought that I could packer the rear 3.5” spring with OME packers I already had, Well as noted this didn’t work witch has left me with a level stance to start with. With the amount of weight we carry there is no way a level stance will work for us we need something like a 1/2 “ to a 1” of rake. To fix this we will most likely be going down in the front about ¼ and Frankie is working on fabing some spacers that will work with his springs they will most likely be about ½ or more. Also I will be testing other shocks because I feel that even though the ride is far superior to what I had before I am thinking that just a little stiffer shock or the ability to adjust the shock would be perfect for my application. Frankie is currently testing other shocks for this.
I have said that the FOR kit is night and day to the OME setup we had. This is my honest impression and I can tell you this because I have had both on the same rig. This doesn’t seem to set well with some people that have OME kits or springs on there rig and like it. To that I can only say, I’m sure you do. I too liked my OME kit at first too. It was much better then my 10 year wore out stock stuff and I thought it was great because I had never tried anything better.
Sam
F.O.R. has a 3” kit right now that Frankie feels is “dialed in” and people will love this kit. This is the highest quality and biggest band for you buck lift kit on the market today.
They are also selling a 3.5”+ version for those of you that have clearance (run tire chains etc.) concerns and or just want or need more height. This kit when combined with other parts from venders like Slee Off-Road and Landtank is a great choice too, if you have the money and patents to venture into “no mans land.”
Frankie is selling a concept of 35s tires, low center of gravity and higher quality parts ie shocks and springs. He should be commended not criticized for not providing parts that one might want that other good venders already sell such as castor plates, track bars and drive shafts. Its just good business, this way one can pick and chose what they want and when they get it. Plus it puts the highest quality spring and shock platform in there hands for less money and also he’s not producing products that others already have there for stealing bread from there table. Instead he helps these venders by recommending them to his clients.
IMHO anyone that wants a 3 to 4” lift and is not considering FOR is making a big mistake. It’s a great base system with quality parts. It has a good center of gravity. Good seat of the pants feel and the shock adapters open you up to a whole new word of better performing higher quality shocks. Not to mention the fact that his springs seem to have a higher tolerance or wider range of comfortable and performance in light to heavy trucks that other spring/shock combo simply don’t seem to have. 80 to 90% would love this kit I am a lot heavier then must so I’m pushing things a lot more than most. I want a custom setup that works for us.
I wrongfully selected his 4” front spring and thought that I could packer the rear 3.5” spring with OME packers I already had, Well as noted this didn’t work witch has left me with a level stance to start with. With the amount of weight we carry there is no way a level stance will work for us we need something like a 1/2 “ to a 1” of rake. To fix this we will most likely be going down in the front about ¼ and Frankie is working on fabing some spacers that will work with his springs they will most likely be about ½ or more. Also I will be testing other shocks because I feel that even though the ride is far superior to what I had before I am thinking that just a little stiffer shock or the ability to adjust the shock would be perfect for my application. Frankie is currently testing other shocks for this.
I have said that the FOR kit is night and day to the OME setup we had. This is my honest impression and I can tell you this because I have had both on the same rig. This doesn’t seem to set well with some people that have OME kits or springs on there rig and like it. To that I can only say, I’m sure you do. I too liked my OME kit at first too. It was much better then my 10 year wore out stock stuff and I thought it was great because I had never tried anything better.
Sam
Thanks for the continued review. I for one, appreciate it.
I'm pretty sure I'm in the same class of 80-user that you are, and I appreciate your perspective. I am running the OME 850/863 heavy combo, with 25mms of spacer front AND rear. I'm within an inch of level in day-to-day trim. When loaded with family and gear, I'm perfect. It's good to know how FOR's coils work out as far as rake vs. load go.
On the topic of choosing the right coils for the job, it would be nice if FOR would furnish the specs on their coils--free height and rate. I realize rate is not as simple with the progressive coils, but a simple polynomial is not beyond the brainpower of the average MUDder. This would help folks who might like to mix and match--even between manufacturers.
Just a suggestion.
I'm pretty sure I'm in the same class of 80-user that you are, and I appreciate your perspective. I am running the OME 850/863 heavy combo, with 25mms of spacer front AND rear. I'm within an inch of level in day-to-day trim. When loaded with family and gear, I'm perfect. It's good to know how FOR's coils work out as far as rake vs. load go.
On the topic of choosing the right coils for the job, it would be nice if FOR would furnish the specs on their coils--free height and rate. I realize rate is not as simple with the progressive coils, but a simple polynomial is not beyond the brainpower of the average MUDder. This would help folks who might like to mix and match--even between manufacturers.
Just a suggestion.