fluid filmers

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Joined
Apr 21, 2017
Threads
12
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88
Location
idaho
Getting ready to apply again before winter. Last year was my first attempt at using it. Seemed to really work well and many areas are still protected.

Question is what areas should I avoid applying it to? I used rattle cans last year, but bought a sprayer this year. I noticed I got just a bit on the exhaust last time and it smelled for a while. The can also says it can damage rubber?
 
I used it 5 winters in Chicago and coated everything on purpose except the exhaust. Spraying inside the frame rails at access points is important as well.

I used about 4-6 cans each time. Don’t know if that’s overkill but my trucks look new underneath.

There are no natural rubbers on the truck. It’s all synthetic based and will not react with the film.

Use a respirator when applying. HTH
 
Sprayer is the way to go with the Fluid Film, and it's a great rust proofer (among other uses). Check the frame after a couple months of winter, you'll probably need to hit it again. Consider some rust proofing spray paint as well. The Navy paints their ships all the time to keep rust at bay.
 
So what is por15 used for? Is it like apply por-15 first and fluid film on top of it or just FF does the job?
 
I used it 5 winters in Chicago and coated everything on purpose except the exhaust. Spraying inside the frame rails at access points is important as well.

I used about 4-6 cans each time. Don’t know if that’s overkill but my trucks look new underneath.

There are no natural rubbers on the truck. It’s all synthetic based and will not react with the film.

Use a respirator when applying. HTH


Thanks much, wasn't aware there were no natural rubber.
 
My brother is moving to Chicago in a few months from Atlanta and is taking his mint 2011 LX570 with him. He takes it to the dealer for everything including a detail every other week. Is there a vendor that will apply this for him in Chicago that I can recommend for him?
 
So what is por15 used for? Is it like apply por-15 first and fluid film on top of it or just FF does the job?

POR-15 is essentially a combination of black paint and superglue, so you don't want to apply it around any bolts. However, it will last a very long time.

The fluid film can be applied almost anywhere, but on the underside will get washed off eventually.

I use both.
 
My brother is moving to Chicago in a few months from Atlanta and is taking his mint 2011 LX570 with him. He takes it to the dealer for everything including a detail every other week. Is there a vendor that will apply this for him in Chicago that I can recommend for him?

@GoISU
 
My brother is moving to Chicago in a few months from Atlanta and is taking his mint 2011 LX570 with him. He takes it to the dealer for everything including a detail every other week. Is there a vendor that will apply this for him in Chicago that I can recommend for him?

I would just buy a few gallons off of Amazon, and bring it to a reputable local mechanic with a lift and ask them to do it. It's not a technical job, it's just requires someone who actually cares about making sure everything gets sprayed.
 
I still use LPS 3. I am sure they both work well but what I have read here is that Fluid Film has to be reapplied every 6 months or sooner. The stuff does not migrate. Just my experience with it for the past 30 years of use. Just for fun, who wants to spray the left frame rail with one type and the right frame rail with another? Here is an old back yard test I found.
 
Whatever you do, never ever spray it inside the doors or any body cavity. Never. The stench will never go away and every time the car heats up in the sun you'll smell it inside the cab. And if you get overexposed to the vapors, you can develop an allergic reaction/sensitivity to it and never be able to breathe inside your car again.
This stuff is way more vile than people make it out to be. If you're smart, you'll never use it.
 
I used a mix of wirebrush, corroseal, and fluid film when I first bought my cruiser back in CT to tidy up the undercarriage and get it ready for the salty winter. Looked great after the first winter, but you do need to reapply it before the next winter. I had a drop cloth, tyvek suit, and a respirator for it all. For just the fluid film cans I'd only bother with the respirator and all you really need are the cans. Optionally the extension wand for the cans is handy for getting into tighter places or around your skid plates. I may finally try to get the spray gun to work this year as I need to go back and touch up the hitch receiver for just a little bit of corrosion. Only other thing I can caution you on is that it is lanolin based and some people have allergies to it. My wife was not impressed I bought it but did like its work.
 
Whatever you do, never ever spray it inside the doors or any body cavity. Never. The stench will never go away and every time the car heats up in the sun you'll smell it inside the cab. And if you get overexposed to the vapors, you can develop an allergic reaction/sensitivity to it and never be able to breathe inside your car again.
This stuff is way more vile than people make it out to be. If you're smart, you'll never use it.

And I will counter that you are GREATLY exaggerating the effect of the smell. I have used it for many years on many vehicles, inside the doors, rockers, around the engine, tailgate, etc. Yeah it has a funky smell, but I just splash or spray it on, and go. The smell goes away after a few days.

I can sympathize if you are allergic to the vapors, but you have to be in a minority. I have never had any adverse reaction to the smell, and it goes away quickly, doesn't come back until you re-apply.

That being said, I don't use it as the primary defense against rust anymore, I use a local shop called Oil Medics, they have an undercoating they have developed that goes on like a thin gravy, it cures very waxy (more durable than Fluid Film). The underside stuff is black, but they use a clear mix in the doors and tailgate. The first time is $199, then it's only $99 a year for a maintenance coating. The 200 will be getting this treatment soon.

But I always keep a few cans of Fluid Film in the garage, I use it liberally as touch up and for stuff like the boat trailer and the snow blower.
 
@GoISU did a cruiser meetup and spray event early in Nov last year near Chicago. Hopefully he'll do it again this year.
 
And I will counter that you are GREATLY exaggerating the effect of the smell. I have used it for many years on many vehicles, inside the doors, rockers, around the engine, tailgate, etc. Yeah it has a funky smell, but I just splash or spray it on, and go. The smell goes away after a few days.

I dunno, man. When I applied it to my truck in the past, the smell lingered for months. I don't live in a rust-prone area, so I had just applied it out of OCD. For me, the added protection wasn't worth having my truck smell like animal butt, so I sold my spray rig and leftover fluid on Craigslist.

My father-in-law, however, is a farmer in CT. He just bought a new truck, and I wholeheartedly endorsed and encouraged Fluid Film to him. He won't mind the smell at all and he needs the rust protection. His last three vehicles have all had the frames rust through.

In other words, the truth probably lies in the middle. The smell is significant, but it's probably not a deal-breaker for those who can benefit from the product.

Definitely interested in hearing your feedback on that Oil Medics product. :cheers:
 
I noticed the smell for a few weeks, maybe a little longer. It didn't bother me as I didn't find it to be that strong but you could tell it smelled a little different. I think it's worse if you get it on surfaces that get hot like the exhaust.
 
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