Fluid Film Rust Preventive opinions?
- Thread starter woytovich
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I have heard they (these types of products) work very well and are used quite a bit in Europe.
I did most of my jeep with a similar product. Eastwood sells it as heavy duty anti rust protector. They are all a wax oil mixture. Eastwood has one that dries black, great for under the jeep, it will be all over my fj40. They will also fix themselves, so instead of chipping and rusting they will kind of flow back over and protect where a rock or something hits. Eastwood also sells a spray gun for it that the can attaches to and comes with two hoses, one that sprays a fan the other more side ways. I used that on the under side of the heap cj8 and inside the boxed frame, after I had rust proofed and painted it, I used that to spray any seam, spray inside all the support channels that you cannot paint inside etc. 2 years and it is all holding up well, the jeep lives about 2 blocks from the beach in a carport and is always covered in sea salt spray, and my son drives on the beach all the time. I was so pleased with that I got it in some spray cans and coated all my leaf springs, tie rods, axles etc. and any spot on the frame I could see rust starting. It now looks like a nice frame paint black with a little shine. I had done the frame up with a por 15 like product, painted it etc, but with the sand, salt etc you could see rust starting in the seams etc, and where road rocks hit it. This stuff covered that up, sealed it and stopped it. now it looks great again under neath.
Here is the black, they also have the normal that dries like a brown, but when you can get it in back!
Heavy Duty Anti Rust Quarts Black
and here is the gun that allowed me to get 100% everywhere
Undercoating Gun and2 Hoses
they also have it in aerosol cans.
Bottom line is I 100% also swear by these wax oil based coatings, all I bet are about the same product. Not sure what color the one you linked to is when it dries. You CANNOT paint over it, and bake cleaner will 100% remove them, I assume other chemical might also.
I am sure it is the same type of product, but I love that they made it dry black.
Here is the black, they also have the normal that dries like a brown, but when you can get it in back!
Heavy Duty Anti Rust Quarts Black
and here is the gun that allowed me to get 100% everywhere
Undercoating Gun and2 Hoses
they also have it in aerosol cans.
Bottom line is I 100% also swear by these wax oil based coatings, all I bet are about the same product. Not sure what color the one you linked to is when it dries. You CANNOT paint over it, and bake cleaner will 100% remove them, I assume other chemical might also.
I am sure it is the same type of product, but I love that they made it dry black.
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- #5
This stuff purports to be clear. I'll give it a try tomorrow in the daylight and report back... My buddy gave me a spray can but I'l like to get the pump, or maybe the gallon!
i worked for a guy who owned a fishing boat, he used it to keep winch cables from rusting.
the cables were not rusty. i don't know how often the cables were replaced, but i never saw it done.
the boat spent a month at a time at sea, and in nightmarish conditions.
the cables were not rusty. i don't know how often the cables were replaced, but i never saw it done.
the boat spent a month at a time at sea, and in nightmarish conditions.
I have a seadoo RXT I ride in the ocean and use it LIBERALLY in the engine compartment and on pump components. Works very well at repelling salt and rust...doesnt dry up after application and continues to resist corrosion for a long time. Doesnt harm any hoses or plastic components in the engine compartment either. I would not hesitate a second before using it on my truck.
I coated the underside of a full size pick-up almost twenty years ago with a wax-like product intended for the aviation industry. The guy who did it (long since out of business) claimed it was an LPS brand product but it is much thicker than LPS-3 which is available at hardware stores, etc. Double coated to approximately 1/8" thick and as thick as lard, the coating has held up well to northwest rain and winter de-icer in the Rockies. The body has had rust on exterior body panels but there is nothing showing underneath. The wax is not transparent any longer due to years of dust, mud, and road grime so it is somewhat difficult to tell but there is no rust bubbling in either the bed or cab floors. Frame is excellent. The wax has hardened somewhat after all these years and may not "self heal" as well as it once did. Vehicle is a dedicated camping/exploration/brush busting rig that sees four season use for fishing/hunting. For the first ten years it was a daily driver and doubles as such in a pinch.
I used the Eastwood product inside the frame rails of an FJ40 over ten years ago. Vehicle has largely been a daily driver since that time with use during winter (read: de-icer). Please note: I do not commute and yearly mileage accumulation is well below the norm. Frame rails show no obvious rust at this time but, as with the PU, dirt and grime have made the wax opaque.
If I was to recommend (loath to do so) a course of action with wax based products I would start with LPS-3 for ease of penetration into tiny crevices, etc. Follow that with the Eastwood product which is slightly heavier and then a layer of some sort of heavier product if you can find it. Note: These products are nearly impossible to remove without hot tanking or a lot of brake cleaner/solvent.
I used the Eastwood product inside the frame rails of an FJ40 over ten years ago. Vehicle has largely been a daily driver since that time with use during winter (read: de-icer). Please note: I do not commute and yearly mileage accumulation is well below the norm. Frame rails show no obvious rust at this time but, as with the PU, dirt and grime have made the wax opaque.
If I was to recommend (loath to do so) a course of action with wax based products I would start with LPS-3 for ease of penetration into tiny crevices, etc. Follow that with the Eastwood product which is slightly heavier and then a layer of some sort of heavier product if you can find it. Note: These products are nearly impossible to remove without hot tanking or a lot of brake cleaner/solvent.
I like it
I have it on my 60 and 100 and can say that it holds up very good. I put a coat on every fall and there is still plenty left next year. Yes this is overkill but in Cleveland you need it with all of the salt. I use an old POS Wagner paint sprayer that will never see anything but fluid film. Buy it by the gallon and spray it. I do have some of the small cans you can get them from John Deere dealers.
HTH
I have it on my 60 and 100 and can say that it holds up very good. I put a coat on every fall and there is still plenty left next year. Yes this is overkill but in Cleveland you need it with all of the salt. I use an old POS Wagner paint sprayer that will never see anything but fluid film. Buy it by the gallon and spray it. I do have some of the small cans you can get them from John Deere dealers.
HTH
I used it on my rig last year. It holds up well but is not really clear, it has a sort of yellowish brown tinge, it also stinks so spray it outside and let it air out a while before moving your rig back in the garage. On the plus this is supposed to be environmentally safe
Mike Sanders is used in Europe. More on this issue in my build.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owner...storation-buildup-project-22.html#post4672874
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owner...storation-buildup-project-22.html#post4672874
I have been using it for many years.
Absolute best product to use for rust prevention, light lube.
Something else it works great for..................dressing for flat black, textured plastic.
Absolute best product to use for rust prevention, light lube.
Something else it works great for..................dressing for flat black, textured plastic.
Im just getting into it. Never head of it until recently. And I now love it. I sprayed everything under my rigs with it. Brake lines, frame, floor, under the rockers/wheel wells, anything where rust is an issue.
I like the LPS3 stuff as well.... however since moving from LI I cant find the stuff anyplace local
I use Napa Open Gear Lube (a spray grease ) under the body of my cruiser... apply yearly
Vermont has an oil undercoating that works the best I've ever seen
I use Napa Open Gear Lube (a spray grease ) under the body of my cruiser... apply yearly
Vermont has an oil undercoating that works the best I've ever seen
I've used Fluid Film for three winters in WI. We put a ton of salt on our roads and so far it's done it's job protecting my truck.
I bought a gallon and I still have more than 1/2 left.
Come September I spray the entire undercarriage, back, and side panels down down with a gun similar to this one :
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-DH650001AV-Siphon-Feed-Spray/dp/B0000CBJ6S/?tag=ihco-20
Then take a rag and wipe the rest of the truck down.
As they say, it's got a funky smell, and will stain your work clothes pretty good, but it does the job.
Use it.
I bought a gallon and I still have more than 1/2 left.
Come September I spray the entire undercarriage, back, and side panels down down with a gun similar to this one :
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-DH650001AV-Siphon-Feed-Spray/dp/B0000CBJ6S/?tag=ihco-20
Then take a rag and wipe the rest of the truck down.
As they say, it's got a funky smell, and will stain your work clothes pretty good, but it does the job.
Use it.
state
tyke's father got his 87 4-runner new and it had ZERO rust on it ANYWHERE when he sold it in 99... that says alot... tyke would know where to go
its a yearly thing like any of these other things
When you say wipe down, are you referring to the painted outer body panels? Also, I read that you should use a probe spray wand or nozzle attached to tube to get up into the inner body areas. That's where the real rust and issues will start with a LC. After cutting all the spots out of my 45, I can see all the areas that completely failed due to opening where mud and water collected and rusted from the inside. I seam sealed much of the issues, but with no modern inner fender designs, it is impossible to keep debris out of some of the traps.
Correct. I did not use a special wand and/or nozzle. I just spray her down and call it good.