Build FJfordy4DR12V (purists turn your eyes away from this one)

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DangerNoodle said:
Send cut send can laser and bend those. I'd be happy to send a model over to you to get cut.

I think you have my number. If not let me know and I can get it to you. Happy to talk to you about that to see if there is a good solution if you want some help.
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Awesome thanks, I will test these out for fitment and ride and get with you.
 
Just saw my previous response didn't go through mid day, DJ, but thanks again.
Got it out this evening and as a bonus Matt IV and another friend had come out to the range to shoot, so he was able to ride in it and give me second opinion. He was impressed with how much quieter it was which was awesome, but the sway bar was the real winner. So much more well behaved, this will be so much nicer to drive. Didn't get a lot of testing done but will try to break it as time and the weather allows.

IMG_1069.webp
 
Ditcherman said:
Just saw my previous response didn't go through mid day, DJ, but thanks again.
Got it out this evening and as a bonus Matt IV and another friend had come out to the range to shoot, so he was able to ride in it and give me second opinion. He was impressed with how much quieter it was which was awesome, but the sway bar was the real winner. So much more well behaved, this will be so much nicer to drive. Didn't get a lot of testing done but will try to break it as time and the weather allows.

View attachment 4066304
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Once you run a nice bar, you'll never go back. I learned that one a while ago, and I can't ever seem to explain how much nicer most stuff behaves with a proper sway bar.

Glad its working out for you!

Now you just gotta do the front lol.
 
Also, rip out and replace those allen heads in the bar end cap with a solid hex head, and I'd recommend a heaping portion of red loctite on those after you replace them. Even with red and as much torque I could get on mine, I lost a side on the trail about 100 miles in. You cant get that allen head tight enought that it wont flex and back off with the slight side load those caps see. I stuck grade 10 hex heads and some green loctite in mine after I lost the first batch and have not had another problem since.
 
DangerNoodle said:
Also, rip out and replace those allen heads in the bar end cap with a solid hex head, and I'd recommend a heaping portion of red loctite on those after you replace them. Even with red and as much torque I could get on mine, I lost a side on the trail about 100 miles in. You cant get that allen head tight enought that it wont flex and back off with the slight side load those caps see. I stuck grade 10 hex heads and some green loctite in mine after I lost the first batch and have not had another problem since.
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Interesting, I cut the tube the bar slides through short enough so there shouldn’t be any side load on those caps. I thought that link would clamp down tight enough to not allow any sideways movement on the bar, but there’s some crazy forces working there for sure.
Haven’t used any loctite due to still being in testing phases but was planning on it.

ETA I’ve looked at the front just enough to know I don’t even want to think about it. When I talked to TK1 I told them I was only going with one bar so they sized it pretty heavy I think.
 
Pretty good day.
Got registered for SAS10, scored a couple of old style doors from DaKruiser.
IMG_1089.webp

Have two doors, now I need another 40, preferably without doors so my wife thinks i have good logic, hit me up with any leads.
 
Been working on fixing some leaks, oil pan was not sealed right so step one was cutting the crossmember out that locked the pan in that I left in like an idiot.
IMG_1119.webp

Build a new crossmember, not so much for frame strength but to bolt the skid plate to as the frame had been reinforced by other crossmembers
IMG_1113.webp

With that done I had been looking for an opportunity to get it out in the cold and snow when there was no salt out, it was a blast.
Handles like I’d expect any truck to, but with more options with twin stick t case and lockers had a lot of fun. Heater works good, heated seats work better.
IMG_1115.webp

Donuts for dayzzz.
 
Looking for some headliner advice.

Searched the forum and didn’t see too much.
Really my question revolves around using generic headliner vs something specifically made for a 40.

There is a huge cost difference, and some lead time for CCOT or whatever. My roof is about 120” long so I will be piecing together whatever I get. That, along with the fact that I REALLY do not want to take the top off, (it’s probably two guys two days labor just to go off and back on), I am seeking inner peace and happiness by lowering my standards.

I want to find some kind of slow set glue and feed this above the rollbar, in manageable pieces. So, while I want to avoid wrinkles and such, there may be some extra seams, but there is going to be one seam anyway because of the length. The rollbar is close enough I can use self inflating sleeping pads to push the headliner on the roof.

How bad is this idea, generic, seamed, roof on?
 
Broski said:
I run a Antirock and really like it. It’s a universal model and It’s highly modified by me.
I don’t think it rocket science you mostly need to know how much weight you’re dealing with.
IMO it all about packaging.
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Just a update on my Antirock, I still think it works really well but I was chasing a clunk in the back.
Turns out the arms came lose and messed up the splines on the arms. The bar is Chrome Molly and the arms are stamped steel so splines are still good on the the bar. I reached out to Curry makers of the Antirock they claim that the arms were not tightened correctly but that's just not the case if fact the bolts were still tight but the arms were lose on the bar.
I wasn't looking for warranty replacement ( I have been running them 5 years now ) just some insight as to why this is happening.
In any case I'm committed to this bar as the mounts are French through the frame. New bar in bound.
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Sorry for the hijack !
Just wanted to share as I was talking the Antirock up.
 
Broski said:
Just a update on my Antirock, I still think it works really well but I was chasing a clunk in the back.
Turns out the arms came lose and messed up the splines on the arms. The bar is Chrome Molly and the arms are stamped steel so splines are still good on the the bar. I reached out to Curry makers of the Antirock they claim that the arms were not tightened correctly but that's just not the case if fact the bolts were still tight but the arms were lose on the bar.
I wasn't looking for warranty replacement ( I have been running them 5 years now ) just some insight as to why this is happening.
In any case I'm committed to this bar as the mounts are French through the frame. New bar in bound.
View attachment 4079788
Sorry for the hijack !
Just wanted to share as I was talking the Antirock up.
Click to expand...
Not a hijack all, my friend!
Love the info, interesting.
The TK1 do have an advantage of being component-ized but arms made out of aluminum I wonder about lifespan.
 
I think you could order a headliner for a troppy and use that. I am going to use the weatherstrip on mine for a troopy, should be long enough.
 
matzell said:
I think you could order a headliner for a troppy and use that. I am going to use the weatherstrip on mine for a troopy, should be long enough.
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Thanks but my roof is 10” longer than a troopy from what I can find. I had to piece the weatherstrip together too.
 
Ditcherman said:
Not a hijack all, my friend!
Love the info, interesting.
The TK1 do have an advantage of being component-ized but arms made out of aluminum I wonder about lifespan.
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Almost all the race guys seem to run aluminum. If it's treated correctly it will do fine for a while, but it wont be able to wear out the bar splines. Those arms should be cheaper than the shaft itself, espcially with the modular design TK1 has for their arms.
 
Broski said:
Just a update on my Antirock, I still think it works really well but I was chasing a clunk in the back.
Turns out the arms came lose and messed up the splines on the arms. The bar is Chrome Molly and the arms are stamped steel so splines are still good on the the bar. I reached out to Curry makers of the Antirock they claim that the arms were not tightened correctly but that's just not the case if fact the bolts were still tight but the arms were lose on the bar.
I wasn't looking for warranty replacement ( I have been running them 5 years now ) just some insight as to why this is happening.
In any case I'm committed to this bar as the mounts are French through the frame. New bar in bound.
View attachment 4079788
Sorry for the hijack !
Just wanted to share as I was talking the Antirock up.
Click to expand...

Looks like some end play maybe that allowed for some slop?
 
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