FJ80 1991 Radiator Replacement

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Some of y’all are real pieces of work. Try to have a discussion about a radiator and you turn it into a 14 year old girls high school drama day
 
I've never heard of anyone complain about the OEM radiator. It's a solid unit.

There may be some acceptable aftermarket options, but I doubt any as good as OEM (with plastic.)

Just because someone, somewhere, may have said something on a forum, doesn't mean it's true. Nor does it mean that you understood it correctly.
 
ozarkmud said:
I've never heard of anyone complain about the OEM radiator. It's a solid unit.

There may be some acceptable aftermarket options, but I doubt any as good as OEM (with plastic.)

Just because someone, somewhere, may have said something on a forum, doesn't mean it's true. Nor does it mean that you understood it correctly.
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Like I said in previous post. I have other cars with plastic rads and have no issues. OTOH my fj40 went through 3 Toyota rads when I had it and these were genuine Toyota. I had some repaired several times. They would all leak at the top tank braze joint. May have just been a bad batch. auto zone has a Duraladt plastic at $350 with life warranty probably just go with that. Keep my metal and I could use in a pinch if the auto zone fails. Just have a very slow leak now. I look at reviews of the csf and many fail within a year reports now made china
 
jonheld said:
Yea, I'm sure you know better than those wacky Toyota engineers.
Lotsa luck scooter.
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Jonheld. As I said I am a licensed mechanical engineer in Hawaii. Design and fix and ride some of the most advanced transport platforms in the world. Much more advanced than an fj80 which is just a modified model T in the scheme of things. I leave it at that and let you and your girl friends get back to your drama
 
Got the radiator from auto zone. Plastic and aluminum. Life time warranty so what the heck. Give it a try

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I suggest a 2 core alum. with a trans cooler, it will cool much better than OEM. CSF or any other Napa brand. LIland Global is what i ran now and for the past 5 yrs, it has been superb.
 
Marco Lau said:
I suggest a 2 core alum. with a trans cooler, it will cool much better than OEM. CSF or any other Napa brand. LIland Global is what i ran now and for the past 5 yrs, it has been superb.
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You may be right. I am in Hawaii and shipping charges for something like a radiator would be $300 and up. This Auto Zone was about $330 and no ship charge with a lifetime warranty. Figure it will get me on the road without a potential massive failure as my current radiator developing multiple leaks a s 1/4 of the copper fins are corroded away. Figure it will hold me over until if and when I need an upgrade.
 
FJ80HI said:
Please suggest a new replacement radiator for my 91 fj80. In Hawaii so needs to come from local vendor like Napa O’Reilly or auto zone otherwise shipping is sky high
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Have you looked on EBay? I needed one recently for my HDJ80 and got a 4-core unit delivered to Western Australia (almost as remote as Hawaii) from China for $AUD380. And it's a very solid looking unit too - no plastic, all alloy. And bigger (thicker) than the standard Toytota one, and the cooling problems I was having from my front-mounted intercooler have disappeared.
 
The fan shroud is a must to keep your coolant temp. manageable. I would never leave the shroud off...
 
Chuck Steak said:
Have you looked on EBay? I needed one recently for my HDJ80 and got a 4-core unit delivered to Western Australia (almost as remote as Hawaii) from China for $AUD380. And it's a very solid looking unit too - no plastic, all alloy. And bigger (thicker) than the standard Toytota one, and the cooling problems I was having from my front-mounted intercooler have disappeared.
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Yes tried eBay. Most eBay don’t deliver Hawai’i or you pay air freight at $500. Problem with direct from china no warranty and tariffs cost are unknown the rad I got about $330 us, lifetime warrant, and if I need to return take to local store and pay no shipping charge. I have a 2001 Nissan xterra and a frontier that each have over 225000 miles each and have plastic aluminum rads and never had issue. So this should work. And if not return
 
FJ80HI said:
Done and dusted took longer than 30 min. Dropped fan nut. Ended up between belt and crank pulley. Almost ready to give up. Would not have been good. Always something. Rosananaannadanna

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yeah the proper way is to move the battery box to gain access to the pass side, but can be done with the box intact and you might end up forcing the plastic down and crack the top part of the shroud, which is very common and that could result in blowing the radiator and fan out all together when the plastic gives,
 
Marco Lau said:
yeah the proper way is to move the battery box to gain access to the pass side, but can be done with the box intact and you might end up forcing the plastic down and crack the top part of the shroud, which is very common and that could result in blowing the radiator and fan out all together when the plastic gives,
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I have no idea what you’re referring to. The battery box was not in the way of anything. I dropped the fan nut because you can not hold it. Must use needle nose plyers or other such method due to very limited clearance for the 4 fan nuts
 
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