I started to install my ome kit on the weekend. Lots of issues with frozen pins and bushings getting the old leafs off all of the bolts broke loose rather easy though. Used a lot of heat with a map torch and a 3lb hand sledgehammer. The front end went fine and the pin in the middle of the leaf lined up with the axle mount hole after some maneuvering, wasn’t to hard. I’m now having major issues with the back suspension and the pin lining up with the hole on the axle leaf mount. I’ve tried everything I can think of. I Hooked up both the fixed frame end and the shackle end and tried to line it up and it is off by half an inch the axle needs to move forward or the leaf needs to move back and neither will budge. I tried undoing the u bolts on the other rear oem leaf to free up some axle movement as recommend by the tech at cruiser outfitters and it still won’t line up for anything. I then manged to line the pin in the axle perch with both end of the leaf detached fixed the u bolts and tried to hook the ends back up and now they are way out of alignment. So either the leafs ends are hooked up and the axle and leaf won’t line up or I can get the axle and leaf lined up without the leaf ends fixed but the are out of whack. I’m at a loss for ideas I’ve had two other brains working with me and we are stumped. Anybody else out there have a trick for this problem. Please help I have a useles cruiser taking up my garage.
Fj62 ome install question. can’t get it in the hole (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dffj6288
- Start date
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John McVicker
SILVER Star
If I understand your problem, use a ratchet strap to get things lined up. Easy peasy.
Yes,
You need more leverage. The axle isn't all that easy to move because you've got a grease hydro lock in the driveshaft yoke preventing it from sliding easily. Try removing the slip yoke grease zerk.
I've done my fair share of leaf pack wrestling too. The only way I found I could do it (though it's never easy) was to mount the front of the spring to the frame hanger first. That's the starting point. Then lift up the rear of the spring until the midpoint is near the axle housing, then as @John McVicker mentioned, use a ratchet strap to pull the axle housing into position. If you don't have a ratchet strap, you can use rope and make a Spanish Windless or whatever to leverage the axle into position. I don't know how you'd be able to do it without a HiLift jack either.
Once the front and ubolts are tight, the rear of the spring needs to be leveraged down to reach the shackle. I used a long thick aluminum pipe strapped on to the spring to bend it down far enough to get the shackle attached. Kinda tricky by yourself. Or a long 4x4 piece of wood would work. You'll definitely need some sort of leverage to bend the spring down.
You need more leverage. The axle isn't all that easy to move because you've got a grease hydro lock in the driveshaft yoke preventing it from sliding easily. Try removing the slip yoke grease zerk.
I've done my fair share of leaf pack wrestling too. The only way I found I could do it (though it's never easy) was to mount the front of the spring to the frame hanger first. That's the starting point. Then lift up the rear of the spring until the midpoint is near the axle housing, then as @John McVicker mentioned, use a ratchet strap to pull the axle housing into position. If you don't have a ratchet strap, you can use rope and make a Spanish Windless or whatever to leverage the axle into position. I don't know how you'd be able to do it without a HiLift jack either.
Once the front and ubolts are tight, the rear of the spring needs to be leveraged down to reach the shackle. I used a long thick aluminum pipe strapped on to the spring to bend it down far enough to get the shackle attached. Kinda tricky by yourself. Or a long 4x4 piece of wood would work. You'll definitely need some sort of leverage to bend the spring down.
Yep use a ratchet strap or a come along. Pretty standard deal, I’ve done it several times
Taking the zerk out, really made my day much easier. When I did mine, the come along was working-but still a little off. After I took the zerk out, it really "slid" into place.
The offending zerk fitting is near where the driveshaft sliding splines are, about a third down on the driveshaft. Press in the center spring loaded ball while compressing the shaft, with ratchet straps for example, or just unthread the zerk, as mentioned before.
or just take the driveshaft off.
or just take the driveshaft off.
Few things,
1. unbolt your ebrake cable from the axle housing (2 bolts on top)
2. unhook your drive shaft (easier to move the axle around and line it up)
3. Sure you have the leaf springs the correct way around? One side is longer than the other.
After disconnecting everything above, I did not have to fight anything and no ratchet straps were needed. The axle just lined up and everything bolted into place.
The front was harder for me. the rear was a breeze.
1. unbolt your ebrake cable from the axle housing (2 bolts on top)
2. unhook your drive shaft (easier to move the axle around and line it up)
3. Sure you have the leaf springs the correct way around? One side is longer than the other.
After disconnecting everything above, I did not have to fight anything and no ratchet straps were needed. The axle just lined up and everything bolted into place.
The front was harder for me. the rear was a breeze.
g-man
SILVER Star
I just did this. Here is what I did. Put a large (about 2ft) pry bar in the rear shackle. the handle of the pry bar low to the ground near the wheel and about 3 inches of the pry bar end pointing out the back of the shacke and upward. Lay with your back on the ground, head back near the shackle and put your foot on the wheel well body of the truck for leverage. Pull the pry bar handle rearward. This will flex the spring. This pulls the spring back and the pin will drop in the hole. Make sure the spring is pinned at the front eye. Make sure the axle bolts are plenty loose.
I meant to say just make sure the orientation of the spring is the correct way around.
Attach the frame side first, jackup the axle and mate to the center pin to the axle and then bolt up the shackles.
A second floor jack and a 2x4 are helpful for tweaking and lining up parts as well. Good luck!
g-man
SILVER Star
Arrows on the spring point to the fixed pin. Military wrap to the fixed pin.
The rear leafs are sided. They are labeled A or B. If you have two A's, you may (or may not) end up with a lean to the right. If you have an A and a B, put the B on the right side.
Did you install the centering bushings where the rubber isolator pads used to be? Did you reinstall the isolators and steel hat channels on the rear axle. They MUST be left off and the centering bushings MUST be used.
Did you install the centering bushings where the rubber isolator pads used to be? Did you reinstall the isolators and steel hat channels on the rear axle. They MUST be left off and the centering bushings MUST be used.
- Thread starter
- #18
I had identical rear leafs I checked with Kurt at cruiser outfitters they weren’t labeled a or b both had + signs he said I was good to go. I did install the centering bushing on top of the leaf, but left off the steel hat as recommended.
