Build fj62 gets a lift

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bit of an update. the driveline is in. the interior modifications are done. brake lines need to be re routed in the engine compartment. the turbo is ceramic coated and a larger compressor wheel has been installed. a new fan shroud needs fabricated. we're going to leave the inter cooler off for the time being. I'm not towing this winter so we won't turn the fuel up yet. that will give ryan some time over the winter to get the parts and build it the way he wants it done. I'm needing the truck for the winter and don't want to rush him. I'm taking it back to him in the spring so he can do the body work. he'll finish the inter cooler system then. it also need exhaust this week. hopefully by the end of the week he'll have it done and I can pick it up. Ill be honest and say I wish this stage was actually finished as it's been a while coming but I will be happy to drive it again. I guess it'll be neat to see how the stock turbo diesel runs compared to the 3fe and then again see what gains come after inter cooling it and tuning it. am five speed should be fun too!
 
finally got the 62 back. drove 250ish km on the way home. no glitches or hickups. it's straight piped right now as am waiting to the muffler. will get that finished at home. I pulled my m101 cdn trailer with the old 3fe the tranny and the old gas tank. I figure that's about 900 pounds of gear and 700ish of trailer. I could stay at 110 up hill in fifth without a thought. I'm running 9 lbs of boost and haven't really turned the fuel up yet. I'll wait to get the intercooler in. first thoughts are wow this is way better and I have a perma grin on my face. my second thought is its a little loud in here. I may be looking at putting some sound deadener under the carpet. the five speed shifts very smoothly and I actually have more leg room with the clutch pedal than I did with the autos foot rest. so all in all I'm in love. I have a few things to finish up yet like get an air conditioning fitting for the compressor and then get system charged. I also have to hook up tach. he just ran out of time and I needed to get the truck today. I also have to patch the carpet where the previous shifter was.

it's dark right now but I'll get pictures later and post them. I'm just stoked to have it back.

oh I also only used 1/4 tank to go 250 km hauling a trailer. way better than the 3fe. I'm still running my 4:56 years and it seems like 1st is kind of useless and I'm reving high at 110km. I think I'll be putting my 4:11 or 3:70 back in and use the 4:56 in my fj40 build. time will tell.
 
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few details to clean up yet but here it is!
 
it seems like I have a lot of room in front of the console. I may have to think about a new better, taller center console that can work as an arm rest too. use this space wisely!! the trick is do I buy one or make one? time vs money right.
 
franklin40 said:
it seems like I have a lot of room in front of the console. I may have to think about a new better, taller center console that can work as an arm rest too. use this space wisely!! the trick is do I buy one or make one? time vs money right.
Click to expand...

Most people go for the Tuffy console. The colors match OK and they are robust, and can add cupholders.
 
onemanarmy said:
Most people go for the Tuffy console. The colors match OK and they are robust, and can add cupholders.
Click to expand...

My tuffy console is my second favorite modification to my 60. Before I put it in, I didn't realize what I was missing. Having a comfortable armrest on long drives is almost a forgotten comfort until you put it in and then you realize how much better it is.
 
can any of you with a 3fe tell me what colour the wire from the distributor to the tach is? i don't have a distributor/coil any more (YAY) but still need to know which wire it is which is buried in bunch of other wires, so i can try to hook up my tach. thanks
 
Should be in the FSM schematics
 
i just have a digital copy of some manuals. i think one is FSM but when reading through them they didnt seem to have much direction so i'm not convinced its actually the FSM i'll try looking again.

anyway i just ordered a new ebrake cable. mine broke and now with a manual i find its really annoying parking with out it. i'll be pulling my bell cranks out too to clean them up. should be fun!!

it is nice to get even little things done to make the list shorter. eventually i'll be at the point where the body can get done! mechanical first though
 
i can't find a wiring diagram in my files but did come across one on line. there are four wires coming out of the ignitor. one black-blue, this goes to ignition switch. there is a solid black one- this one goes to the tach, there is a black-light green, this one also goes off the picture and the last one is black-green and also goes off the picture. so i have no idea what the other wires do (well actually i think they might go to the distributor) but is seems like the solid black one goes from the ignitor to the tach. my tach will still have 12v and ground hooked up as it was never actually removed. i'll see if i can find the black wire and try hooking it up this weekend. hopefully i don't burn my truck down!!
 
What will u connect your tack to? Bell housing?
 
injection pump has a tach sender on it that I'm told should just hook up. not totally sure but im going to give it a try. if not I may have to try the abs sensor set up on the fly wheel
 
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I was only asking because i just rebuilt my 2h and noticed that the bell housing is where mine is connected. Left side to be more exact. Now I don't know how the hz is set up but just a heads up.
 
well I went for a Christmas tree run yesterday with some friends. it's the first time I've done any wheeling since the engine swap. I love it. nice low end torque keeps things moving slowly with out riding the clutch. we had such a good time. tonight I'm going to see about fixing my e brake and u sticking my bell cranks. I got a new cable. I'll also try hooking up the tach and if I have time swap my LED interior lights in. there are still a ton of little things to do. I guess they've been neglected long enough while pining for this engine swap. now to make the rest of the truck work as well as the drive line
 
one bell crank apart. looks like the PO already took the steel shims out of the aluminum housing. they were still pretty frozen up. i should have them both apart, cleaned up and reassembled later tonight. i'm also chasing a little electrical gremlin. my rear passenger door switch to turn the interior light on and off doesn't work. i found a broken wire just under the rear quarter panel that i fixed but still no power. i'm now following it back further upstream. all the other switches work. i assume that wire goes to connector in the rear drivers side panel that then supplies the interior light with power when the switch is open. is this a correct assumption. i haven't found the upstream most end of the at wire yet. i'll keep digging later tonight after my kidos are in bed. hopefully i'll get a couple things figured out tonight. the tach idea didnt work so i have to look a little closer as to if i'm hooking up the correct wires. i think i hate electrical problems!!

i guess i think of electricity as similar in some ways to fluid in a pipe. maybe that's a bad way of thinking of it and maybe why i don't really like the electrical systems the same way as mechanical systems. anyway i'm thinking about this switch (again no wiring diagrams) and thinking that in typical toyota fashion this must be a ground side switch turning the light on. therefore power must be going to the light then to a connector that splits to all doors? as long as one switch is allowed to connect by opening the door then the electricity flows to the body ground through the switch. am a thinking of this correctly? if i find the connector that splits to all doors then i should be able to find where i know i have power (as i have it to all other doors). if i need to i can replace the entire wire i guess.
 
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turns out putting a new e brake cables more work than i thought. i had to take the front seat out to take the brake bucket out to get the cable to disengage. sorry for the grainy pictures

heres the brake all out
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new brake cable locked into bucket. these tabs hold it in place and are impossible to get out with the seat still in place.
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heres the cable hooked back to the ratchet handle
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brake back in place
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