Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45

[workingdog]

I'm not using the bed mounts, I'm going to a flat bed, so the mounts are coming off soon anyway.

I have the Aqualu wide high fenders, so they handle wider track width better. but still the 60 axles (with 1" spacers) fully fill them out.

 

[Tank5]

I'm not using the bed mounts, I'm going to a flat bed, so the mounts are coming off soon anyway.

I have the Aqualu wide high fenders, so they handle wider track width better. but still the 60 axles (with 1" spacers) fully fill them out.

Since the bed mounts are not an issue the only other concer with cutting the fram behind the cab and running is straight back is how much width you loose in the middle above the axle. If you go with something like a 80 suspension with coils and springs separate the coils could end up really close together unless you mount them directly under the frame rails. Maybe this would give you room for coil overs out side the frame too.

since you are not as concerned about widen the stance I would reconsider 80 width axles. If I was not stuck the aesthetics of my build 80 width would have made some things easier on me.

 

[mr jits]

Okay, shifted from SOA on the fj40 back to the EV45. I'm looking at ride height. I got out the fenders to check tire clearance. Apparently they haven't sold a lot of these high adn wide fenders and he said the fitment requires 'finesse'. I think it's just a little sketchy.

View attachment 2624231

Here's the fender.

Here's it with the filler piece, which won't fit right no matter what you do. They say put a 3/8" spacer in their,
which you can see in their pictures which I've included. But, I don't like it.



View attachment 2624234

View attachment 2624235

Not pretty.

But, I'll figure something out. Also, there are only two bolts down low where it meets the cowl and then it attaches to the bib,
but no support otherwise.
I'm clearly going to have to cut the hell out of the inner fender well for the coilover mount. And, when that all gets installed I tie the fender to the frame somehow.
But, it's enough now to look at tire clearance.

For what you paid for that body, there seems to be a lot of QC and fitment "issues". Maybe tag Aqualu here and see what they say?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I think backhalving a frame you bought brand new is a little silly. If you were going to do that, buy a FJ60 frame and chop that up, don't chop up a brand new frame you purchased.

Coils under the frame rails, think double-triangulated 4 link or 5-link (80 series) with shocks.

 

[workingdog]

Why lose coil overs to avoid cutting a new frame. It's here, why not make it work for me. I had no idea fj45 frames flared that way. I thought they were just long fj40 frames. And the new frame is beautiful, clean 2x4 rectangle tube ready for whatever I want. Not some nasty fj60 frame with crap I don't need all over it. I've got one of those. Believe me, I'm happy to not be dealing with that. A few adjustments and the frame will be perfect for what I need.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, taking a break from the SOA/axle swap on the 40 to get back on the EV45 drive train. The odd thing about the chill plates for the motor controllers is that they just through bolt. They have to seal tightly, but the don't bolt directly to the controller, they sandwich between the controller and whatever the controller is eventually mounted to. Okay. So, I made a plate for the controller to mount to that I can then mount to my frame, making the controller and chill plate removable as a unit.

And I'm going to weld some ears on the cage/box I made that mates to these. with the plates, I can RTV the chill plate on, mount to the plate, and then work on getting the entire unit mounted inside my box. A bit more fiddling that I anticipated.

 

[workingdog]

Also, the adapter and hub finally arrived from Canada! It's an interesting thing. the hub goes on the tail shaft of the electric motor putting it in the right location to mount the flywheel. The adapter looks more or less like a V8 bellhousing on one side and the other mates to the plate on the drive end of the motor (I hope). So, mount the hub, then mount the adapter to the electric motor (there's a note that the bolts might be too long. If I turn the motor and hear grinding, go buy shorter bolts. Hmmm.) Then, mount the flywheel and assemble the clutch assembly and then mount the bell house portion of the adapter to the actually bell housing.

This is going to be interesting.

It also came with support plate for the other end. Unfortunately, it does not assume the same height as the cradles. So either I space the cradles up a little (which now that I think about it, might be the right thing to do) or I cut out the support structure right there and create something solid for it to sit on. Not sure I even need it with double cradles on each motor.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, finally got the controller box mounted on top of the motors, had to cut the end of the support frame off to make space for the end support. But the two controllers are mounted (still need to put coolant lines to them) and all the plus high voltage is run to the contactors. I going to fun the minus high voltage today. That fancy welding 2/0 cable is really nice. I still need to run the signal connectors for the Hyper 9's up into the box, they are supposed to not run next to the HV lines, so I need to think about that. Also need to start mounting the 2 and 7 pin connectors for all the control and low voltage lines that run from the box to the various computers.

I'm going to slide the hub on the main shaft today and then, once I get some decent bolts, bold the adapter to the hyper 9 and the flywheel the hub/adapter. And then I'm going to have to probably raise thing up some so that I can sling the transmission (with clutch) onto the motor assembly.

 

[workingdog]

So, I just talked to the guy that sold me the V8 adapter and hub to make sure I was putting the spacer on right, thinking the hub just slides on. Only to be told that the tub is not press on, but it heat shrinks on. So, I've got to disassemble both motors (which I really had to do anyway to get some thread locker on the coupler bolts and shaft coupler set screws, but it's a giant pain in the ass), stand the 150 lb motor on end on its shaft (not the body of the motor). So, I have to figure out how to balance it upright, heat the hub up to 420 to 450 degrees, and then pound it onto the shaft with hammer and wooden block. So, I'm going to need help to do all that. Sigh

 

[05CTD]

Another thing that would help is to freeze the shaft so it contracts a little. You can get the spray you use to dust off computer key boards and shake it well turn can upside down and spray on the shaft and it will freeze it. We do this on motor shafts all the time at work to install couplers. Just a thought.

 

[workingdog]

@05CTD - great suggestion.

 

[Chuckha62]

So, I just talked to the guy that sold me the V8 adapter and hub to make sure I was putting the spacer on right, thinking the hub just slides on. Only to be told that the tub is not press on, but it heat shrinks on. So, I've got to disassemble both motors (which I really had to do anyway to get some thread locker on the coupler bolts and shaft coupler set screws, but it's a giant pain in the ass), stand the 150 lb motor on end on its shaft (not the body of the motor). So, I have to figure out how to balance it upright, heat the hub up to 420 to 450 degrees, and then pound it onto the shaft with hammer and wooden block. So, I'm going to need help to do all that. Sigh

When you're ready to do this, if you need a second set of hands, hit me up. I'm only a few miles from you and want to set up a visit anyway. My LV is nearly complete (only waiting for the seats to be done at the upholstery shop).

 

[workingdog]

Big shout out to @Chuckha62 who came over today to get the hub on - and it wasn't easy. We had the hub at 400 degrees, which meant even our best welding gloves wouldn't let you hold it for more than 3 or 4 seconds. We had dry ice on the shaft and use air cans up side down and had it frosty. but our first 2 attempts failed. Chuck got out our micrometer and realized the key was .01 too tall. So, we ground it down and tried - and failed - again. Our first two attempts had put some gouges on the inside of the hub and the keyway. We beveled the key and chuck used his gum to keep the key in position so we could engage it in both keys before starting it, but still no go. We used the die grinder with a stone and took the lip on the inside off, did the thing with the gum again and this time it went all the way down and seated. All this time the hub was too hot to hold with welding gloves for more than a few seconds.

So, tomorrow, get it back in position and start getting the flywheel and bell house adapter mounted.

Also, the electric steering arrived from CityRacer, so there's going to be some thinking involved in getting that into the 45 cab.

 

[Chuckha62]

So, tomorrow, get it back in position and start getting the flywheel and bell house adapter mounted.

How's the mock up coming along? Have you attached the two motors together and to the trans?

 

[workingdog]

Not yet, it's on the schedule for today. the axle swap/SOA/4 link rear is soaking up all my time. But, I should have time today. I have to get my son to help get the motors back into the cradles so I can lift them with the gantry and put them back together, the motors are heavy. You're more than welcome to come up and help. It's a very fiddly process.

But the CityRacer steering arrived. pictures later.

 

[Chuckha62]

Not yet, it's on the schedule for today. the axle swap/SOA/4 link rear is soaking up all my time. But, I should have time today. I have to get my son to help get the motors back into the cradles so I can lift them with the gantry and put them back together, the motors are heavy. You're more than welcome to come up and help. It's a very fiddly process.

But the CityRacer steering arrived. pictures later.

Headin out with the wife for the weekend. Mendocino for our 35th. Damn, time flies! I'll check in with ya next week. Hopefully my seats are done and I can bring the LV.

 

[workingdog]

here's the motors back together for what I hope is the last time, hub on the front. Next is bellhousing adapter and flywheel.

 

[cruisermatt]

cant wait to check this craziness out next month.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, finally got back to the EV again and got the bellhousing adapter installed.

Strangely, is assumes that the motors are rotated slightly.

My apologizes to those following this thread who are OCD.

tomorrow we are hoping to get the flywheel and clutch installed and then actually connect the transmission to the motors. Once that's done, we can move the drivetrain in front of the frame and use the gantry to sling it into position. I think I have the mounts all figured out.

However, finally getting my head screws on straight, I'm realizing that there is no way I can do a 4 link in the back with the battery box there. I could run the lower links to the frame with only a little triangulation, but the there's no way the uppers can make it to the frame, the battery box is just too close. So, (shudder) I may have to go leaf springs in the rear.

The engine bay is going to be pretty empty. I could put 3 of the batteries on a tray over the motors and their controllers, that would free up about 14" in the back for links ... not sure that's enough. And it would make the wiring immensely more complicated.

the only reason I'm thinking about is that there's about 300 lbs in motors in the front, 100 lbs of transmission in the middle and 800 lbs of battery right behind the cab. So, the thing is going to be waited pretty heavy to the rear.

I also got my axles. A pair Jeep Gladiator axles from a Gladiator that one to tons. They should be prefect. Relatively light. Electric lockers, link mounts, drag link, panhard bar - I'm hoping I can use the works.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, flywheel is on (twice), clutch is on, transmission is on (and is coming off because the clutch ain't right)

No, he is not stoned.

Drivetrain is in the frame and more or less at height relative to the frame.

now to build motor mount and trans cross member.