FJ60 clutch or transmission issue?

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txnight

txnight

10 Year
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Threads
32
Messages
543
Location
Dallas TX
FJ60 with 261K on the clock. Trying to sort out major issues.

I learned a lot studying the forums but haven't come across anything to help me.

Issue that I'm trying to sort out: There is a loud spinning metal/grinding noise coming from what appears to be the front of the transmission. I removed the shifter boot to help listen.

Details: In neutral there is no noise. Clutch pedal feels normal and truck goes into all gears very smoothly. Transmission pulls hard in every gear and doesn't come out of gear on it's own. Also changed fluid in the transfer case and tranny. No metal shavings found and fluid was surprisingly clean.

In gears 1-3 there is very little to no noise. In 4th gear it gets very loud, especially under power. In any speed and with the tranny in any gear I can push the clutch in and the sound immediately goes away. This has me thinking that it is the throwout bearing and I need to install a new slave cylinder.

Do you guys think I'm on the right track?
 
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Thinking it through a little more and studying the FSM this makes me think I have a bad bearing in 4th gear. I guess it doesn't get any load on it until the tranny is placed in 4th gear. F it, I was really trying to avoid pulling the tcase and tranny.
 
How did the fluid look in the transfer case? 4th gear is closest to the transfer case if memory serves correctly. Maybe the noise carries through?

Hope we can get some resolution to this issue for you. As I told you already I gave up and bought a 5 speed :hillbilly:
 
I was really surprised how clean both the t case and tranny came out. It could be that the PO filled them up in an attempt to get rid of the noise. The truck was purchased from his widow so the recent maintenance is anyone's guess.
 
I would think it's something to do with the throw out bearing. Did you take off the inspection cover? The bearing might be slightly touching the fins on the pressure plate making the noise. Easy to check with the cover off.
 
BTW the early slave cylinder (pre 1985?) Is adjustable on the rod that pushes the fork. Otherwise you will have to adjust at the clutch pedal.
 
Inspection cover is the sheet metal cover between the engine and transmission. It is held on by 7 bolts IIRC. It attaches to the bell housing and once removed exposes the pressure plate, clutch disk, flywheel, and clutch fork.
 
I've been reading up because I'm curious. I found THIS tech tip with google searching. Might be something to think about.

With my H42 transmission, metal shavings in the oil, noise when foot off of the clutch pedal = input shaft bearing. It was making the same noise before the new bearings and it came back. Something must be bent... if that is even possible.
 
With 261k it could be possible, but you may take the cover off and find something completely different. I just want to make sure we research every possibility so you are prepared for anything. :D
 
Either way its apparent my clutch needs attention. For some reason that seems easier than tackling a transmission rebuild.
Plan of attack is to check fluid, check the clutch pedal adjustment, take off the cover and order up a clutch kit!
 
A Worn Pilot Bearing:
Will make noise when the clutch pedal is depressed. Will make no noise when the clutch is engaged when driving because it isn't spinning.

A Worn Throw Out Bearing:
Will make noise when the clutch pedal is depressed. Will not make as much noise or any noise when the clutch is relaxed depending on the model year (after mid 1985).

A Worn Input Shaft Front Bearing:
Can make noise at idle. Can make a lot of noise in 4th gear. Can make less noise in 1-3

Other Worn Transmission Bearings:
Can make assorted noises in different gears.

Fourth gear is not a gear. It is straight, direct drive lockup of the Output Shaft. Since the output shaft is not placed under a side load like it is in 1-3, worn bearings can roll around more and make more noise in 4th.

>>>

An engine that is either mis-firing on one cylinder or has low compression on one cylinder can cause loud gear growl in 4th gear. Gear growl in this instance is the transmitted sound of of an unhappy engine. Over advanced timing can cause gear growl too. And conversely, retarded timing (or driving up to high altitude can reduce or eliminate timing induced gear growl completely.

>>>>

I would first:
Tune up the engine completely according to the manual. Don't leave out any steps.
Adjust the valves
Check the compression
Replace the gear oil with Mobil Delvac Synthetic Transmission Fluid 50. It quiets the transmission a lot. If the transmission still makes noise.... it will have to be rebuilt, or replaced with a 5 speed... since many parts for the 4 speed are no longer available... or not worth replacing compared to buying a new one.
 
I think you are on the right track with the 4th gear bearing. EDIT: Output Shaft clarified that there is no 4th gear bearing, so the front input shaf bearing.
BTW, if you change the slave, you should change the master at the same time as a matter of course.
 
After reading more info the best way to describe the 4th gear noise is a very dry bearing noise coming from the front of the tranny/clutch. Does that change anyone's opinion?

It's apparent that this project is going to lead to serious scope creep. So much for enjoying the landy this spring :(

Seems like the best course of action is as follows:
Pull the transmission and transfer case.
Clean everything.
Rebuild the clutch
Replace transmission with a good unit.
Replace oil pan gasket while i'm in there.

Any other "while I'm in here" items you can think of?
 
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I think your plan of action is sane.

You may very well find that once you pull the oil pan, the gasket may have permanently bonded to the pan flange like concrete, and the amount of force and effort required to remove it will damage the flange and make you wish you just replaced the whole grimy mess.... So maybe consider the possibility of replacing the oil pan and gasket entirely. Wait till you pull it to see.
The new oil pan is an upgraded unit. It uses a different gasket and drain plug and drain plug gasket than the original.

New Upgraded Oil Pan - PN (Verify Part Numbers With Vendor!)
Oil Pan - 12101-61013
Oil Pan Gasket - 12151-61011
Oil Pan Drain Plug - 90341-12012
Drain Plug little sealing gasket - 90430-12028​

When the pan is off, might as well replace the rear main seal. Easy to do at that time. MUD has good info on how to do that. No hammers required.
 
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ok, don't flame me too hard for this awful video. It does capture the bearing noise really well.
5 second mark: shift from 3rd to 4th
12 second mark: increased throttle
16 second mark: let off the throttle but clutch is still engaged.

Does this help diagnose the problem?

 
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