Build FJ60 1-ton Superduty build

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This adapter works great with my EBL & Vista. He even dropped his price by $5 to $11 shipped since I bought mine!

BELKIN USB to SERIAL ADAPTER for GPS/PDA/PC/MAC F5U109 - eBay (item 360065815885 end time Jul-01-08 10:40:06 PDT)

keep doing research and be patient & something should come your way. it took me 4 month to find my stroker.

When you select a cam, make you you check the recomended stall. if it requires a higher stall than stock (you dont want one) it will be a dog off the line.

I'm kinda wishing I went with a BBC with a roots blower... maybe someday. :D
 
brokenparts said:
Cant wait to start playing with this thing. I opened up the WUD but I dont know what anything does yet. Any suggestions on what to start playing with first?
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Open up the EBLinfo html file and read it over. Then download tunerpro and play with the EBL bin file included on the disk under bins. I coppied and renamed it first.

You can also open up the BPS-TBI.xls file and play with the fuel pressure settings.

I think there is a stock bin in there you can start playing with on your rig. I have no idea how to start tuning a stock engine, but I'm sure doing some VE learns off of the NB o2 would probably get you a little more power, since you have headers and an open element. Be sure and datalog when ever you have the engine running and the laptop connected.

Read over the calibration html file as it tells you what all of the settings in Tunerpro will do.

That should give you a good start and help you understand how it all works.

I think your next step is to get a wideband and connect it to the EBL, for your stock engine, the narrow band should be fine for now.


I freekin love the EBL.
 
Mace said:
I think you like oil leaks..
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They really help camoflage my driveway and also keep the las vegas environment from rusting my underbody :rolleyes:

I'm slowly tracking them down and eliminating them one at a time. It feels like killing an ant colony one a time..... with a magnifying glass :D

You get your AC sorted out yet? I'm thinking about switching over to 134 and crossing my fingers. Its so much easier to buy 134.
 
nope, I still need the highpress schrader valve

I have been in Ely the past two weeks. So the AC is kind of a non issue lol
 
so I bit the bullet and picked up those vortec heads and GMPP intake that I found. It was too good of a deal to pass up. The place I got them from was from an older dude that you could tell has been building motors forever. He had pictures all over the place of circle track racing, derby's, you name it. Nice clean shop with a few employees.

Ended up bs'ing with him for over an hour and managed to weasel head bolts, intake bolts, Head gaskets, intake gaskets outta him too. Totally cool guy. Now, I got to figure out cam, lifters, and rockers.

Any reports on the leaks or is the Vegas heat keepin you from wrenchin?
 
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You'll probably be pretty happy with the vortec's. If the GMPP manifold is a TBI manifold I'd ditch it & go with something like this and use an adapter. This will flow better & you will not have to bore the manifold to match a 50mm throttle body. You could always go with this also :D

Have you found a throttle body yet?

I found that the 2nd from the rear oil pan bolts are leaking pretty good, so they must be open to the crank case. I need to pull them & put some silicone on them to see if that is my main leak (the Felpro 1-pc oil pan gasket instructions did not say anything about this), then I can get back to tuning, I also need to replace my AC compressor so It won't be so bad tuning in the heat. I may skip that though and just tune it in the evening when the temp drops below 105.
 
That looks like a good intake. GMPP makes a TBI manifold that is reported to be pretty worthless.

Which AFPR did you get? I like the external Ebay ones that have the guage built in. I would have rather gone that route, as its a total pain to use the one I have in my throttle body.

When are you pulling the heads?
 
I got this set-up... eBay Motors: 46mm GM TBI high flow throttle body kit AFPR spacer (item 250263525231 end time Jul-25-08 12:37:56 PDT)

I'm kinda torn when to pull the heads. I really wanna wheel this summer... all summer (especiall now that boots is almost done with his waggy). I have a feeling since I'm pretty new to this stuff that flip floppin the stuff is going to turn into more than just a weekend project. I am tempted to just pull the intake and check to make sure that the block is drilled for the roller cam though.

I'm glad I bought the entire EBL system though. I should be able to plug it in and play with it as soon as I get the cable and if I get into trouble with it I can always just plug the stock ecm back in.
 
If you are going to pull the intake you might as well replace the heads & if you do the heads, might as well do the cam at the same time. The main issue you will run into with the swap is fuel lines. I went with AN & braided lines and used adapters. if you go this route I would plumb in a guage or even an Ebay FPR

You'll probably need to modify your throttle linkage. I had to pull mine forward about 1". Everything else should bolt up.

I think it could be done pretty easily in 2 weekends (first for the bulk & second installing parts that you found you needed after you started work).


To keep your truck wheelable, just install the new FPR & bump up the fuel and play with the EBL. you won't get much when you install the larger TBI since the manifold is bored too small, but you will see some gains, maybe even 30 or so HP between the added fuel, tbi flow, headers & open element.

Have you checked the casting # on your block yet? that might tell you definitively if you have a roller block.
 
I think I glanced at it once.. 068 seems to ring a bell? I could really use the extra 30hp... that's some serious motivation to plug in that ebl and new tb. I'm headed to sand dunes in the next few weeks in the cruiser and the 30 extra ponies will help battle the bog the sand eats up.
 
there are quite a few different casting numbers for those year blocks, but all you need is that number & type int into google and it might tell you what it has. my casting number was pretty vague, But I believe it did say it was roller ready.

We use to ride ATV's in the dunes north of Coos Bay when I was a kid. That was a fun place. Sand really eats up the HP
 
yep yep, used to ride down there all the time when I was a banshee guy. There is some dunes just west of me about hour called "Sand Lake". Its a lot smaller area but fun all the same. Tillamook State Forest is along the same stretch of road too.

I'll have to crawl under there this weekend and look for the casting number... damn, roller junk is spendy.

COMP Cams CL08-413-8 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 4x4 Cam and Lifter Kits - summitracing.com
 
brokenparts said:
yep yep, used to ride down there all the time when I was a banshee guy. There is some dunes just west of me about hour called "Sand Lake". Its a lot smaller area but fun all the same. Tillamook State Forest is along the same stretch of road too.

I'll have to crawl under there this weekend and look for the casting number... damn, roller junk is spendy.

COMP Cams CL08-413-8 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 4x4 Cam and Lifter Kits - summitracing.com
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You need a much bigger cam than that :)
 
That looks like a pretty good cam to me. I think that is about the max lift your vortec heads will accept.

If it was me, Id go with a hydraulic tappet cam at half the price (unless you already have a roller cam and can re-use the lifters, not very likely) and spend the extra $ elswhere.

I heard there are ways to get more lift out of your heads, so maybe look into that and you could get a larger lift cam with a little more duration. give comp cams a call and see what they recomend for your intended use, but tell them you are planning a carb, so they don't limit you to computer controlled cams.
 
brokenparts said:
when you get a chance can you snap a pic of how you did your throttle linkage? did ya have to fab up anything funky?
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My throttle linkage is a GM throttle cable cut, spliced & stubbed into the firewall & uses a steel cable clamp @ the pedal. Its pretty hokey, but I didn't do the linkage so I'm not sure what parts were used (bought the 60 with the TBI350 in it).

since the acle was cut short, all I did was to use a small piece of steel (about 1")& drilled 2 holes in it, one with a bolt to the stock linkage and the other to the TBI. The edelbrock manifold and adapter moved the throttle body about 1" forward. If your're linkage has some adjustment, then all you need to do is adjust it.

What do you have for linkage?
 
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